풀 제작 영상 – 슈퍼마린 스핏파이어 마크1 1/72 타미야, 아크릴 도료 붓도색 프라모델 for 초보 모델러 입문자 (60748)

풀 제작 영상 – 슈퍼마린 스핏파이어 마크1 1/72 타미야, 아크릴 도료 붓도색 프라모델 for 초보 모델러 입문자 (60748)


Hello…Cooger 🙂 This is a Full Building Video for Beginners The concept of this video is…“Full Build Process” of the plastic model kit If you have any questions…Please ask in the video comments or live broadcast Basic Modelling Tools required to build plastic model kit Nipper, Modelling Knife, Glue/Cement, Tweezers, Sandpaper, Used Toothbrush, Cutting Mat Tamiya 1/72 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.I Low parts count, good assembly…good proportion and detail Start!!! Check the product for any abnormalities, and open the package Use a nipper to safely separate out the parts of the sprue Cut out the “Gate” between the sprue and the part With a modelling knife…carefully cut out the remaining “Gate” on the part The fingertips of the hand holding the part…Be careful not to be in the direction of the modelling knife…
Watch out for yourself…Again!!! It’s not the end here… Sanding the gate surface with sandpaper Brush off the plastic dust with a used toothbrush When cutting the “Gate”…I don’t cut it TOO CLOSE It’s better to cut off the gate, leaving a little length Remove the part from the sprue, then cut out the gate further at a comfortable angle When removing the gate with the modelling knife…
Don’t try to remove the gate at once… It’s safe to cut off a little from above the gate, and it’s less stressful Sandpaper cleans the gate marks neatly Repeat this process over and again…It’s easy, right? 1st Trim Parts – Done After 1st Trim Parts, I did a Dry Fit using the White Craft Glue Ensure component assembly and prepare before building in earnest It doesn’t matter if you pre-assemble it on a large parts It looks like there’s nothing to be careful about 🙂 Reassemble parts…Start 2nd Trim Parts In addition to the Gate…Trim Parting Line, Surface Wound, Sink Marks, etc If you sand the surface of the part…
you will often find problems that were not visible Carefully sand the fine molds on the surface of the part to prevent them from being erased Polycab setting for securing propeller One remaining Polycap is extra Check for any abnormality in assembly… Apply the glue immediately Upper Main Wing Part It doesn’t look like a problem, but… when sanding…At the wing tip, there is a “Sink Marks” It’s not enough to use putty, so take it with sandpaper… The Oil Cooler Air Intake on the bottom of the main wing is dirty and the parts are thick Widening the Hole with a modelling knife Replace with a small blade Lightly melt the surface of the part with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Oil Cooler Cleanup Completed Control Column Attaching Cockpit Bathtub Parts…Use a model adhesive for bonding parts First of all…Apply Tamiya Cement, set the parts in place and then… Use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement If you want parts to handle with precision…Use “Tweezers” rather than Hands It’s really easy once you get used to the Tweezers There are certain limitations to handling parts with your fingers…
Use the Tools!!! Completed Cockpit Bathtub assembly except Instrument Panel Inside the Fuselage parts that were assembled with masking tape… I’m going to insert the Cockpit Bathtub Let go of Cockpit Bathtub parts until it hardens Clear the “Parting Line” in the middle of main wheel parts If you have a “Sponge Sandpaper”…In this case, it’s convenient to use If the part cross-section geometry is “Curved”, the work efficiency is much better than paper sandpaper As an Aero Modeler, I use “Sponge Sandpaper” when trimming tire parts Trim the Propeller Blades Dry Fit for Spinner and Blade Trim the Parting Line on Main Landing Gear Strut With modelling knife and sandpaper… Trim parting lines carved in the length of the part Before and After surface cleaning of Main Landing Gear Bay 2nd Trimming Ends~ Cleaning with detergent before painting I’m going to fix the parts and spray Surfacer(Primer) When painting Acrylic Paint, the Surfacer should be sprayed Not Optional…“Required” For convenience, I use Gunze(Mr.Hobby) Lacquer Surfacer Spray I sprayed the Surfacer(Primer) This is Water-Based Acrylic Paints Use MODEL AIR (for Airbrush) Acrylic Paint by Vallejo, Spain First…I’ll paint the “First Painting” Shake it well… and pour the paint on the Paper Palette about the size of 1 cent coin It’s a MODEL AIR product exclusively for Airbrush, so the paint concentration is relatively Thin, but… It’s a little bit thick for the First Painting, so mix the water a little Use Vallejo 71305 Interior Grey Green for the First Painting If you do not match the color of the parts can be painted with a different paint…Don’t worry 🙂 Start First Painting Paint the parts you need to paint before assembling the fuselage “Painting Thin” is a point… Brush Painting is more likely to be thicker than Airbrush Painting… so “Painting Thin and Several Times” is the point It’s like you’re putting lotion on your face… It is important to paint “Thin” and “Thin” so that the paint does not clump And, the “Brush Stroke” should be QUICK… Acrylic Paints tend to have a “Surface Drying Speed” faster After First Painting, change the brush to start the second painting This is a brush with a strong tension synthetic hair It’s advantageous when painting a mold like this fuselage interior Paint the paint in every corner of the mold Don’t let the paint clump together…Painting Thin is Basic!!! The color of the paint comes out little by little Fuselage Interior – 4th Painting When I applied it 4 times thinly, the color of the paint came out Cockpit Bathtub – 4th Painting Completed Upper Main Wing – Sky Type S Painting The main landing gear bay of the main wing has a few molds, so I use a “Flat Brush” The paint is a paint different from the one used for first painting…
Vallejo 71302 Sky Type S (BS210) Sky Type S – 3rd Painting Sky Type S – 4th Painting Inside Radiator Fairing – Sky Type S 4th Painting “Yellow”, one of the most difficult colors to paint
You must use a “White Surfacer” for color Yellow 4th painting on blade end… Cockpit Instrument Panel…Painting white color on white surfacer Paint the instrument panel with “Red” and “Yellow” colors using a pointed round brush Use the undiluted paint solution as it is Painting Radiator Grille and Oil Cooler Grille This Vallejo Aluminum is a my favorite paint alternative to silver color Painting sliver stripe of oxygen cylinders Nobody’s chasing from behind…to take a deep breath…slowly… Painting Fuselage Interior If you make a mistake…it’s a hassle, but…You can repaint it with a basic color Cockpit Bathtub – Painting Completed Lacquer Gloss Clear Coating Apply “Black” color on the instrument panel that has been coated with lacquer gloss clear For cleaning (use to erase…)…It’s Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner Put a little acrylic thinner on the cotton swab… Carefully remove the paint from the (+) mold on the instrument panel You’ll understand why I applied lacquer gloss clear coating just a while ago The output…Okay? 🙂 I put a seat belt decal on the cockpit seat Painting Propeller Blade Black Color Painting borders neatly with flat brush and pointed round brush without masking If you fail to paint black color, you can erase it and repaint it Don’t worry, the yellow color won’t be erased by the coating of lacquer gloss clear Rotate the blades to make sure the border line is correct Oil Color Washing Work Use Raw Umber and Petrole Determine the concentration to suit your taste Loosen the oil color well until the lump is removed with a flat brush Apply oil color gently with a brush Petrole… It has a lot of unique smells, so it must be ventilated And, Petrole is very volatile…Keep in mind!!! Wipe out after about 10 to 15 minutes Pour a small amount of petrole into a paint tray… Wipe off with a little bit of petrol by brush It’s not a clean sweep… Wipe off with the feeling that you’re left with a little bit If you’ve erased too much…apply oil color again… dry it…and wipe it off again Before & After of Upper Main Wing Parts After drying enough (recommended for more than 1 week…) Spraying Matt Clear If you spray Matt Clear, the color will definitely calm down Before attaching fuselage…Remove the paint on the adhesive surface From the standpoint of glue…these are all “Foreign Substance” Due to the thickness of the paint, gap may occur during assembly Remove paint using flat sculpture blade on the adhesive side of the cockpit bathtub It also trims the adhesive surfaces of the cockpit bathtub Checking… OK…No Problem It also cleans the adhesive surfaces of the main wing If the paint is difficult to remove, do not remove it by force Attaching Fuselage Parts I’m going to fix it from the forward fuselage and move it towards the vertical fins… Since it is not an Instant Cement… it takes some time for the strength of the adhesive to develop That’s why you have to keep holding on to the parts Not the end here… Until it hardened…Wrap the fuselage with masking tape Attaching Upper & Lower Main Wing Parts If you want to lack glue…apply a little bit more Gently glue the instrument panel to the cockpit bathtub… Put it inside the fuselage In this state, securely attach the front instrument panel with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement It’s dry When the glue is hardened and the cockpit bathtub is removed… Instrument panel adhesion angle OK Remove masking tape from fuselage Attaching cockpit bathtub to fuselage Remove masking tape from main wing Attaching fuselage and main wing Apply Tamiya Cement first… Put the main wing… Secure with masking tape for the “Dihedral Angle Adjustment” of the main wing It’s a good assembly, so you can skip this process….just in case… Finish with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Attaching Oil Tank Fairing Attaching Carburetor Attaching Radiator Fairing Remove masking tape after 2 days These are putties that I use often In this video, I use Gunze Mr.Surfacer 500 (liquid type putty) Mix well and… apply a little bit using Bamboo Fish Cake Skewer If it’s difficult to apply neatly… Mask the tape with masking tape on both sides and apply putty For liquid putty, be careful as it may seep into the masking tape Putty on the leading edge of the main wing When it is liquid and dry, then “Shrinkage” occurs Apply putty again where additional work is needed After drying for about a week…Finally, happy sanding works!!! lol Clean up the surface and the sink marks with sandpaper I’ll start with a slightly rough sandpaper(600 grits)… The more you go back, the more fine sandpaper(800~1,000 grits) you have to replace…. Repeatedly sanding It is important to use the touch of your fingers while sanding It is possible to determine surface condition, sense of touch rather than visuality If you want to take care of your health and sand it more finely…you can always “Water Sanding” If you do “Water Sanding”… the part/putty dust are attached to the surface of the part without flying in the air And, the surface of the part is polished more finely than it is without water After washing with detergent, check the condition of correction Engrave Panel Line – Hasegawa Line Engraver 2 (White) In the case of brush painting, which has a thicker paint film thickness than airbrush… it is necessary to dig out the (-) mold panel line once again, and the panel line which is erased due to sanding work is inscribed again It’s going to take some time for me to hold the part in the air and work on the panel line It’s more important to engrave accurately than to engrave quickly Even if the (-) mold panel line on the parts is clear, mistakes will occur the moment you are alert… In this video, I’m going to show you simple… The next video will cover the panel line engraving in more detail The Seam/Panel Line modification and Riveting are Completed Attaching Horizontal Fins Even if the adhesive guide is well designed…it is essential to check that the angle is well maintained Masking work to spray the surfacer Cover the painted surface to avoid surfacer Carefully fill the tissue inside the cockpit… Meticulously masked with masking tape It also covered the main wheel bay, the radiator and the oil cooler with a tissue Put a bamboo fish cake skewer in the fuselage When painting, you don’t have to hold the fuselage by hand…Comfortable Don’t forget to wear gloves to protect your precious hands The surfacer I just sprayed is slowly drying up You may be worried that the surfacer is less painted there is no problem when painting acrylic paint with a brush Remove masking tape & tissue that interferes with painting Start painting “Sky Type S”, which is the bottom color of the fuselage…“First Painting” Since it’s a First Painting, I paint not only the bottom but also the entire fuselage/wing I painted the surfacer…but the First Painting is the hardest If you don’t apply the surfacer, painting even more difficult First of all painted paint are becoming “Drying the Surface” The Aircraft is not simple shapes… Don’t finish painting in one shot…Please divide the sections and paint it I mentioned earlier that the “Surface Drying Speed” of Acrylic Paints is Fast… “Brush Strokes” should be Fast First Painting – Surface Dried The specified color is not Sky Type S, but…Apply first painting with Sky Type S Sky Type S – 2nd Painting As soon as the first painting drying of the surface, it is applied immediately…no time to rest First of all…start with the “Bottom of Fuselage” where Sky Type S is the specified color… The paint concentration is set slightly stronger than that of the first painting Sky Type S – 2nd Painting Completed Sky Type S – 3rd Painting Completed Sky Type S – Start 4th Painting The paint color coming out, but… it’s still…there’s a lack of paint Don’t let the paint clumping….Thinly…Thinly Sky Type S – 4th Painting Completed Sky Type S – 5th Painting Completed Start Fuselage Camouflage Pattern Painting While referring to the camouflage pattern in the instruction… Among the “Dark Earth” and “Dark Green”…
I will paint the “Dark Earth” which has a relatively high brightness Dark Earth – Start 1st Painting Paint a little wider than the area to paint Dark Earth…Paint it widely enough Do not violate the boundary of Sky Type S painted on the bottom of the fuselage… I paint it carefully with pointed round brush Here, when you’re out there…After drying, you can paint with Sky Type S Don’t be so nervous…Take a breath and paint the boundary Dark Earth – 1st Painting Completed The camouflage pattern painting takes more time than the 1 color painting, but… As proud as you have invested your time Right away…Dark Earth – Start 2nd Painting The camouflage pattern has been set, so it’s faster than the 1st painting The paint concentration is a little too strong… Dark Earth – 4th Painting Completed “Dark Earth” is done…Now it’s “Dark Green” It’s the order in which we paint complex camouflage patterns While referring to the illustrations in the instruction… Draw the camouflage pattern with a thin brush end As with the first painting…the paint concentration is diluted You only have to draw it to the your eyes… the paint is thicker… so you don’t have to draw a thick film Like me…You can draw a “Curve”…“Dotted Line” is also good Just show the Dark Green area without confusion Sometimes…there is a case where you painted lesser Dark Earth It’s a very long process Don’t think about drawing just like the camouflage pattern in the instruction It’s hard to draw 100% the same from the beginning…You draw it similarly Dark Green Sketch Completed Dark Green – Start 1st Painting First of all, draw the boundary of the sketch more clearly The Vallejo MODEL AIR’s Dark Earth, Dark Green, Sky Type S… It’s my first time using it… Of these, the Dark Green paint is for brush painting….I don’t think it’s appropriate It was harder to paint with a brush than Dark Earth paint I felt that the paint condition was a little different from Dark Earth paint Dark Green – 2nd Painting Completed
After drawing the boundary clearly, I painted inside Dark Green – 3rd Painting Dark Green – 5th Painting Completed
(Painted 1 more time than Dark Earth) 3-Colors Camouflage Pattern Painting Finished Engine Exhaust Pipe Painting Based on Gun Metal…Mix the Flat Black… Add a small amount of Flat Red I mean, this is the Color Mixing Ratio…You can change it a little bit depending on your taste The paint concentration is thicker than when the fuselage is painted but I don’t mean to paint thicker Masking of Canopy/Windshield clear parts It’s a 1/72 scale, so the parts are small in size…
so masking is more difficult There are several ways to mask the canopy There’s also a way to attach a narrow band to the frame… There’s also a way to cover a large masking tape on top of the part, and then use a knife to cut the border The most convenient thing is… using a separate masking product tailored for this kit, but… there will be an additional cost When you attach masking tape to a part and cut it with a knife, you must focus on it Mistakes…Can’t accept it because the cut marks remain on cleat parts Work when your condition is best The most difficult…Windshield parts Spray the gloss clear instead of the surfacer I can see if the masking went well…if you paint and remove the masking Paint the cockpit interior color “Interior Grey Green” first Order to paint the fuselage specified “Dark Green” Canopy Dark Green – 4th Painting Completed Paint the Tires of the main wheel I have a rubber-colored paint, but… I don’t like the color sense…I added some black As always…I paint my tires with the pointed round brush Hold the brush in right hand and…move left hand holding the part It’s because I’m taking it with a camera…I’m nervous 🙂 Paint the rest of the parts Painting Pitot Tube…A little black mixed with aluminum Painting Gun Barrel I used a thin layer of orange on the identification light on the bottom of the fuselage It’s not clear orange color, but…It looks a little light when you paint it thin… After finishing the painting and drying it enough…I’m working on an oil color wash Put Raw Umber oil color on a paint tray Pour the Petrole and… Use a flat brush to loosen the oil color well until the lump is invisible Washing…The purpose is to adjust the overall tone control Apply oil color with a flat brush
Gently touch to apply evenly on the surface It is enough if the surface is moist and wet Wipe it off later, so…It’s better not to overdo it If not, it’s a pain in the ass….lol With the oil color on the panel line and rivet…It’s naturally painted The tone is controlled overall… Don’t miss out on small parts After 15 minutes…the petrole is dry I’m going to clean it up right away Petrole is highly volatile, so…Pour the proper amount paint tray I’m going to get a little bit of petrol on the flat brush…
Wipe out the oil color in the aircraft length direction It’s not a clean sweep… to your taste…The point is to wipe off the oil painting little by little Where to erase and where to leave oil color… During wipe it off…It’s also important to keep the oil color from clumping If there’s too much petrole on the flat brush, there’s a high possibility that the oil color will clump together during the wiping process In this case, prepare a tissue and remove some of the petrole on the flat brush The unique smell of oil color and petrole is strong and long lasting… Be sure to work with ventilation When you use a brush…Never push too hard on part surface If it is unlucky, the paint may be erased or come off Gently…Gently… Washing Completed – The color is a little calmer than the basic painting Dry it for a week (if you can dry it more…)… Apply a gloss clear for paint protection and decal work Don’t have to paint the gloss clear thickly After 4 days of drying…Start Decal Work Tamiya kit quality is good, but…The quality of the decal printed in Tamiya is not good Be stiff and well tear, so be careful To complement decal adhesion, use white craft glue and…use Gunze Mr.Mark Softer together You don’t need a lot of white craft glue…That’s enough The water evaporates during decal work, so mix the water A cotton swab…Put a little water on the end of the cotton swab Put the decal in water for “3 Seconds”, then drain immediately…place it on tissue Apply white craft glue to the decal place… Put up the decal, adjust the position and then… Wipe out the white craft glue that came out Wait a minute for the white craft glue to dry Carefully press the decal with a cotton swab soaked in water Be careful here… Decals can be stretch….Don’t push the decal like noodles do The decal is well adhered If you want to melt the decal film more…Use a decal softener After a few seconds of applying the Gunze Mr.Mark Softer, the decal film edges to crumpled and the decal film begins to melt… Carefully press the decal with a cotton swab soaked in water Successfully attached the first decal The national insignia roundel decal position of upper main wing…there’s a bulging fairing Apply water to fingertips and set the national insignia decal in place Wipe out the white craft glue that comes out and… apply enough decal softener If you wait a moment… you will see the edges of the decal film begin to melt With a cotton swab…Carefully adhere to the front of the convex pairing Reapply decal softener just above the convex pairing The rear of the decal is wrinkled due to the convex pairing…Spread this area carefully And then…Press the convex pairing slowly with a cotton swab Spread the wrinkled decal again Press it gently again with a cotton swab If you press the decal like this, the decal film could tear It takes a lot of time for each decal Don’t be in a hurry After a few minutes of struggle…The decal didn’t tear and was attached well The fuselage side decals were quite different from the instruction positioning… which made it really hard to position I hope the silvering won’t work when the decal is dry… Decal Post-Processing Work – See the link at the top of the screen for more information Wipe off various foreign substances during decal work Do you see some mess around the decal? I prefer warm water to cold water Clean foreign substances from decals After finishing the decal, it is recommended that you finish the post-processing within 30 minutes As time goes by, it is hard to wipe If…if you didn’t attach the decal properly…The decal will fall off during this work I did as much as I could Attaching Spinner, Propeller Blade, Back Plate Remove the paint from the adhesive side before attaching Finally finish with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Attaching Engine Exhaust, Tail Wheel, Antenna Mast Use the knife to spread the antenna adhesive guide that was blocked by the basic paint The paint, the decals, the calming of the tone while protecting the decal…Spray matt clear As the matt clear dries, it gradually becomes a matt surface (5X) After spraying matt clear… Using Model Master 4638 Gloss Clear… I paint Gunsight Glass, Navigation Lights, Identification Light with a pointed round brush Finally, it’s time to take the canopy masking off I hope the paint doesn’t spread too much, but, um… It came out a bit…Glad 🙂 I’m gonna use a cotton swab to clean it up… Remove the paint on the adhesive surface with a modelling knife Remove the paint on the adhesive surface of the main landing gear strut Make sure it fits into the fuselage… Glue it We need to be careful until the main landing gear angle is set correctly Attaching Main Wheels Keep checking if the angle is correct even after attaching Last…Put the propeller Roll Out!!! I made it for the beginner… Thank you so much for watching full building video 🙂 In the next video, I’ll try to fill in the gaps Callsign Cooger

4 thoughts on “풀 제작 영상 – 슈퍼마린 스핏파이어 마크1 1/72 타미야, 아크릴 도료 붓도색 프라모델 for 초보 모델러 입문자 (60748)

  1. ★ 타임 스탬프 (Timestamps)

    00:15 ~ : Step 1 모형 공구와 키트 소개 (Introduction to Tools & Model Kit)

    00:46 ~ : Step 2 1차 부품 다듬기 (1st Trim Parts)

    04:21 ~ : Step 3 2차 부품 다듬기 (2st Trim Parts)

    08:32 ~ : Step 4 조종석 & 프로펠러 도색 (Painting Cockpit & Propeller)

    18:56 ~ : Step 5 동체 & 주익 조립 (Attaching Fuselage & Main Wing)

    26:02 ~ : Step 6 접합선 수정 (Filling Gap with Putty & Sanding)

    30:25 ~ : Step 7 수평미익 접착 (Attaching Horizontal Fins)

    30:43 ~ : Step 8 마스킹 (Masking)

    31:14 ~ : Step 9 RAF 위장 패턴 도색 (Painting RAF Camouflage)

    41:22 ~ : Step 10 캐노피 마스킹 & 도색 (Masking & Painting Canopy)

    43:53 ~ : Step 11 작은 부품 도색 (Painting Small Parts)

    45:51 ~ : Step 12 유화 워싱 (Oil Color Washing)

    47:37 ~ : Step 13 데칼 붙이기 (Apply Water-Slide Decal)

    51:42 ~ : Step 14 작은 부품 조립 (Attaching Small Parts)

    52:34 ~ : Step 15 마감재 코팅 (Matt/Gloss Clear Coating)

    53:03 ~ : Step 16 최종 조립 (Final Assembly)

    54:47 ~ : 완성작 갤러리 (Gallery)

    초보자(초보 모델러, 입문자)를 위해서 만든 영상입니다.

    This video is for beginners(or beginner modelers).

    “아크릴 도료”와 “붓”을 사용해서 제작했습니다.

    It was produced using “Acrylic Paints” and “Brushes”.

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