Building a Board on Board Fence – Part 3


it is 6:30 in the morning but in Texas
this is the best time of day to get going if you missed part 1 or part 2 of
the fence building series and I have lefty links to both in the description
below this week I got started on building the boxes that will go around
the steel post and to do this I am going to be using three pickets per post
now the brackets used to hold the panels to the post actually will extend past
the width of the boxes that I’m going to be building so the first thing I did was
grab some Brown spray paint and paint all of the brackets and to make the step
a little bit easier I cut out a template out of some cardboard now we were
thinking of a few different ways on how to attach the pickets to the steel post
and we decided to use self-tapping screws go directly into the side however
it was way too much of a bear to try to driving the screws with without
pre-drilling first so I would hold the picket in place
pre-drill through the wood and make a mark on the steel post on where the
screw needed to go in then I would set the pick it aside finish drilling the
hole then set the picket back into place and drive in the self-tapping screw this
method was a little time-consuming but it definitely worked well the picket
felt rock steady on that post after I got done with one side I would repeat
for the other to finish the box off I came back with a third picket I used
something flat a speed square in my case to make sure that it was in line with
the two side pickets then they used a little bit of construction adhesive and
my brad nailer to attach it permanently the next thing I got started on was
cutting all of the top caps to go on top of each box and I set up a stop block at
the miter so I can make these repetitive cuts go quickly then I turned my mitre
to 45 degrees and cut off what will be the front two corners to make sure that
they all came out identical I would line up the 2 by 8 corner with the edge of
mamata saw fence before making the cut then I was able to start attaching it to
the boxes and to attach it to the box I’m going to be tone ailing in two
screws on the top side since you won’t ever be able to see the top and to make
this cut easier I would first pre-drill the hole this makes it easier not only
to run in this group also prevents cracking feels good so
next I started adding the trim which is completely customizable I have quite a
few pickets left over that didn’t make the cut for going on the fence because
of things like this or things like this so I’m gonna use these to make the trim
for the post so I would use just a few dabs of construction and adhesive and
then my brad nailer to attach them and since all of the boxes are the same
measurement you can set up a stop block at the Mater saw and make a huge staff
of each cut that way you can very quickly just throw in each piece as
needed I would start off by adding the back trim which is a little bit taller
and then come back and add the top trim which is a little bit shorter and of
course just my opinion but I think that these three components give all of the
boxes a bold but I don’t know an elegant look Cody’s brother was cool enough to
come and give us a hand for the day so we divided it and conquered Cody would
go through and attach the two side pickets to the skilled pose Willie would
come back and add that front picket on and then I would come back and do the
top cap and trim so the last thing I’m gonna be doing for these boxes is going
through and applying a product called fence armor this is just a small
low-profile metal bracket that slips onto the bottom of the post to protect
it from getting eaten up from a weed eater it connects to the post with just
one simple screw and this way we can come through here and not worried about
the wood on the post boxes getting chewed up over time now of course I went
with brown since I have a brown stand on mine but they do come in all different
sorts of styles and colours so if you’re interested I’ll leave you a link below
okay moving on to the final step building a gate the first thing I did
was grab the two by fours and cut the four joints that will make up the frame
now I decided to use half lap joints just because of the strength that they
give now since I have a table salt and a dado stack that’s how I cut in the half
laps however if you don’t have these tools then you could also do this joint
with a circular saw and a chisel and only be a link in the description below
where you can see an example of that to attach these joints together I’m using
tight bond three since it is rated for outdoor use and then four screws per
joint I also use these writing little jigs just to make sure the corners were
nice and before actually attaching it so this
diagonal supports really important because what it does is it transfers the
load from the top unhinge corner to the bottom hinge corner so before setting
this the support in place getting orientation of what’s gonna be the top
and bottom of the frame and then also what’s going to be the hinge and unhinge
side by running this diagonal member correctly it’ll prevent sagging over
time now the only reason I’m using the 2 by 6 for Maya diagonal here is because I
ran out of two by fours to attach it to the frame I used glue and three nails
per side once again just pre drilling these to make a little easier if you
have a pocket hole jig you could also use that now when building out this side
of this fence we left the top cap as one solid unit
so that we could attach the frame to the top cap and not have to continuously
rustle with it to finish out this side but you can see I can I can remove the
clamp and it’s now set in place I ended up attaching some Center horizontal
members so that later whenever attaching the hinges I would have some good meat
to go into okay so a small hiccup I mean just a lesson learned since it’s the
first time doing a fence but whenever building this section out it would’ve
been much smarter to start here and work our way that way instead we built up to
this point and then now we’re trying to fill it in and it’s just not lining up
so we’re just having to do what we can in order to make it look seamless and to
do that I ended up just having to fudge the placement of the pickets and break
from the standard spacing that I had been using so I ended up fudging a few
Pickers right here on the list but then spacing normal across the span of the
gate and then fudging just slightly on the right so some of the spacing
directly to the left and right is a little bit narrower but really after
everything was said and done I think it’s one of those things that if you’re
not really looking for it then you don’t notice it and I’m pretty happy with the
way that it turned out okay now onto mounting the hinges
now these hinges are attached using lag bolts and they need good meat to go into
but some of the holes fell on the space in between pickets so we traced out the
hinges on a picket and then cut it out using a bandsaw
you could also use a jigsaw then attached it to the fence right
underneath the hinge okay almost done now at this point the gate still is just
one solid wall so I moved up to the top with a circular saw and made one
diagonal cut in order to break it loose now even with that one cut done the gate
still won’t open freely because the top cap interferes so to relief cuts over on
the hinge side need to be made so that it has a ability to swing all the way
open I used a circular saw to cut out the
bulk of the material for these relief cuts then use my multi-tool to cut out
the remainder okay now at this point the gate should open freely that is a sigh
of relief so I’m calling this project to wrap this was a really fun but huge
project none of the steps are technically difficult it’s just the
sheer size of the project that makes it difficult so my advice to you if you’re
looking to replace your fence is to schedule it Out’s where you can take
your time with the project and not get overwhelmed with the process now I do
have a full cost breakdown of the entire project on my website and I’ll link to
my website the tools I use the materials are all in the description below for you
so I hope that you enjoyed this 30 part series and I will see you the next time
I’m working on something

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *