CHANGE CENTRAL HEATING PUMP – Plumbing Tips

CHANGE CENTRAL HEATING PUMP – Plumbing Tips


– Plumberparts.co.uk, honest reviews and advice. Holla, and welcome to today’s
Plumberparts.co.uk video. Today, we’re gonna have a look
at domestic heating pumps, how you change them, how they work, the things that can go wrong with them, and just everything about them. If we miss anything, let us know as usual and we’ll get back to you. Here is a central heating pump. Now, this one is inside a combi boiler, but you can also find them
in your airing cupboard or anywhere, really,
on the heating circuit that requires flow. They’re generally in the airing cupboard or in the top of your combi boiler. Now, if we look at this one, firstly, you’ll notice that the shaft is actually pointing up in the air. Now, this has been installed incorrectly. If air can get up in the shaft,
this would actually seize, so that’s what’s happened
with this pump here. It’s actually seized up and
it’s not working properly. So, we’ve got a new pump to put in here, so we’re gonna shut these
gate valves off here, whip the pump out, do the
electrics, pop the pump back in, turn the gate valves on, vent the pump, have it the right way round, and hopefully everything will work fine. One thing to remember is,
while it’s not a good idea to have the shaft
actually pointing upwards, you can have it pointing horizontally, or any way that air will not
get caught in the shaft part in the electronics bit of
the actual pump itself. So, never have the pump upwards. Don’t do it, it’s bonkers. So, firstly, isolate the electrics and turn off the heating
system, everything, make sure it’s fully isolated. If you’re not competent in
doing anything electrics, or anything like that, don’t do it. Once you’ve done that, turn
each one of the gate valves off. Once you’ve turned the gate valves off, get a fat screwdriver, undo this, and vent any pressure
or water there might be. We do this because then we know that the gate valves are holding. Now, if water still
comes out at this point and just keeps on coming out,
the gate valves aren’t holding and you’re gonna have to
drain the whole system down, which is a complete annoyance. If you don’t know how to drain
a pressurised system down, look at our channel, and it’s the same for a
feed and expansion system. Just go back to the channel
and you’ll find it all there. If we look closely at
the inside of this shaft, we’ll see that there’s a small
slotted screw bit at the end. Now, if sometimes, the pump can get seized and you can pop a little
slotted screwdriver in the end of that, and spin it, and that’ll un-seize the pump, and you never know, you might
not need to change it anyway. So, we’ll have a quick look at there and you can see what I mean. So, if we look in here, there’s our slot, our small slot just there, pop our screwdriver in
there, and that should move. Now that’s moving alright, but this one’s actually
got a burnt out windings. Before you remove a pump, always make a note of the
direction of the pump. You’ll find that somewhere on the body, there’ll be a little arrow pointing in the direction that
actually pumps the water. Make a note of that and when
you put the new pump on, make sure the arrow on that
new pump points the same way. Right, so now we get a big set of grips. Now, these can be hard to undo. Oh, these are lovely and loose. Look at that. Beautiful. And that comes off nice and easy. Do that to each end, and there we go. Old pump out of the way. So, it’s a good time once
you’ve got the pump out, to check inside each one of these valves, to make sure they’re not all clogged up, ’cause they do get clogged up. The reason for that is there is a magnetic force around the pump, and you have very small particles of metal going round through the water, and they get attracted to this area, and they basically clog it up in the end. So, its always a good idea
just to check in there and see how clogged up it is. Let’s have a wee little
peek at our new pump. Pumps are all generally the same length, so you should find that it’ll
fit in the old slot okay, so that’s great. And also, make sure you don’t lose the fibre washers or the rubber washers. Now, these rubber ones
are always a lot better. Fibre ones are just slightly
harder to make a seal. They create a seal on the flat here to the flat on the actual pump itself. I’d also recommend as well,
when you’re working on these, it doesn’t hurt to get a little file and just file these off
so they’re nice and clean. Fortunately, these are clean already, but sometimes they get a bit dirty, and it can only save you from
hassle later on in the job. So, whip each one of these out. Let’s have a quick look at the arrow. The arrow is pointing that direction. The old arrow is also
pointing that direction. So, let’s just lay it
in where it needs to be. So, what we do, we get our
washer, slot that in there. This is always a bit of a fiddly bit, so just give it your best shot. Try and get that so it’s pinched in there, whip this over and tighten that up. For now, just do that hand tight, and do the same at the other end. Just pop a pair of grips on here, just nip it up lightly. It doesn’t need to be too tight, just nip ’em up nice and lightly. Do that to both ends. Now, we can turn the
water back on the valves and test for leaks. Once you’ve made sure there’s no leaks, just open up the nut on
the end of your new pump and wait ’til a little
bit of water comes out. As soon as you get water
out, close that nut, and you’ve properly vented the pump, and it should be okay to work. Now, we’re gonna change
the electrics over. It’s really as simple as doing a plug. It’s just a live, earth and neutral. So, yeah, really easy to do. Make sure you use a grommet, make sure it’s all properly clamped in, so no one can pull the wire out, and just do a good, proper job. Alright, before we do anything, let’s just slip everything
on over the grommet. You don’t want to be doing this after you’ve connected the
wires, because you can’t, you’ll have to take them all
off again and start again. So, pop all these in. Now, we remove the top of the pump. As you can see, we’ve got
a live, neutral and earth. When you open one of these
up, it opens up a small clamp, so just clamp each wire
in where it needs to be, and put the lid back on. Before you pop your lid back
on just put all this together. Make sure your grommet’s
in the right place and all tightened up. Pop the lid back on like so, and now you’re ready
to turn it all back on. Right, so we’ve now changed the pump over, and everything’s working okay. There are a few little things that you need to think
about when using a pump. Number one, if the pump
speed is set too high, you can sometimes create air. The impeller in the pump will spin so fast and the water won’t be able
to get away from it as quick. It’ll actually separate the
particles and create air, so that’s the first thing
you’ll need to think about. Always start the pump on the lowest speed, and if you’re getting
everything hot like that, then leave it on the lowest speed. Then, if you aren’t,
bring it up one speed, but don’t just start it on three, because you might not need
it on the highest setting. I hope you found today’s video helpful. I hope we’ve covered everything, or I hope at least we’ve
given you a pointer on how to change a central heating pump. If you need any more help
or any more information, let us know through our channel, or go to our website at Plumberparts.co.uk and as ever, give us some
love on Twitter and Facebook, and I’ll hope to see you all very soon. Hold tight, my G’s. Holla! Plumberparts.co.uk, honest reviews and advice.

51 thoughts on “CHANGE CENTRAL HEATING PUMP – Plumbing Tips

  1. As always PP a great vid. Big up. If some chaps are looking for a pipebending exercise and you haven't got the time to do them….go to "the tomplum" channel. He's got some great tips aswell. Thanks again PP and hold tight.

  2. Another great video mate, perhaps you should say; check the 'system pressure' after you've fitted the new circulation pump – that's if it's a sealed system??!!!
    One question; is there many Whiggers in Essex??
    Big up the Glasga Posse!!!

  3. Thanks for this great vid. I actually managed to chnage out a faulty pump on my system with the help of this video. And truct me when i say that i am NOT a DIY person at all. Very clear, helpful and precise instructions!!

  4. thats great! all i needed to know
    my pump really makes some noises during the night,and you can hear it running all night! is it more economical to keep the hot water on 24/7 or have it warming once twice a day?

  5. cracking video mate, clear and easy to follow. unlike the last 2 crappy videos i found on here with no talking or written instructions just videos with lots of hand instructions haha and not forgetting the wank music, one guy trying to get us to love UB40 WTF ive got a faulty pump I dont need a new music collection you fool 😉

  6. hi i have just drained part of my central heating system to remove a rad and cap off the pipes when i fired the boiler back up every thing got hot but now 2 days later when i put the hot water on non of the pipes get hot but the pump is red hot help ? my system is a y plan

  7. Hi, great videos. I would like a pointer if I may. I have a winchester 24i boiler. the heating and water works ok. When using the heating I get a banging/grinding noise from the boiler and the water pressure gauge bounces around a bit. What do you think the problem is?

  8. If you have a very old pump ( 10 years+ ) can you not simply change the head only if you cannot find a full pump replacement ?

  9. Have you check the expansion tank on the back of the boiler ( usually red in colour ). usually the rubber seal goes and you need to either change or pressurise it with a bicycle pump 0.5bar.

  10. Hi, My pump is leaking from the slot region, is this a seal or new pump? I mean the pump is leaking so much the system cannot be kept pressurised.

  11. Thaxs for the video, but do I need to replace the gate pump valve as well as I've found a lot of black deposit inside the bottom valve ? If I leave the old valve untouched, will it affect the boiler or causing the boiler malfunction ? Thaxs again

  12. half the time the Pump valves are stuffed anyway. on the last pump I changed the valves let by and were corroded and leaky. Had to drain off and cut pipe either side of pump. Two new pump valves and pump went in along with a new piece of pipe and a soldered coupling. sometimes the only way

  13. wish i had watched this before i attempted a pump change, my first ever job the gate pump valve below the pump was letting some water through and loosing the top gate pump valve had split the fiber washer without me knowing to expect this so i try and tighten it back up so i can think but no with the fiber washer unknowingly broke it would not stop leaking i was loosing my mind and running out of towels/clothes fast so i went for it ripped out the old pump stuck the new fast as possible and if i would have just done this in the beginning there would have been less water everywhere and i would have been home much earlier, so take note of my disaster new plumbers and just whip it and put the new one as fast as possible unless the gate valve is open full bore ofc 🙂 … thanks plumber parts

  14. Great video, just found out my boiler pump has burned out so going to attempt fitting a new one, feeling alot more confident after seeing this!

  15. When looking for a replacement what do you look for with regards to spec rating etc eg I don't want to end up paying more then I need that runs 25 rads when only have 10 😉 ? Say the model I have isn't available any more

  16. HELP!! ive changed my pump and unions so had to drain. job went to easy BUT now my boiler wont fire up its in lockdown. ive just to remove air from the pump and rads. ive even cracked open the nuts on the unions for air trapped. ive done the upright pipe in airing cupboard. im out of ideas. ?? thanks its a glowworm micron

  17. I have recently bought a house and the central heating pump seems to be making a humming sounds, haven't located it yet but I can only hear it up in the bedrooms. (boiler is in the loft) I'm assuming it's up there. is the humming normal? it's just a low pitch vvvvvvvvvvvv no nasty sounds or pitch change.

  18. Hi .. I need to change a pump in a glowworm boiler , does it have to be a like for like model. ( make) or could a different pump be used . (0020005804) is the model ..
    it seems to be hard to come by

    cheers

  19. Thank you for all your videos. They really helped me. My heating stopped working recently and the system was making really loud banging noises. I used your videos to help me drain the system and refill with some sentinel x400. Left that in for a few days but noticed the problem wasn’t fixed. Turns out our pump was dead. It was turning off after a few seconds whenever it turned on.

    I decided to attempt replacing the pump but the gate valves either side of it were completely seized onto the pump body, so I just removed them along with the pump and got a couple of new valves. Got everything installed now, refilled the system and added some sentinel x100 inhibitor.

    It all seems to be working with no leaks and we are warm again, with no banging sounds! Couldn’t have done it without your videos as before this my total plumbing experience was replacing the pump / filter assembly in a washing machine!

    Thank you very much.

  20. Hi Plumberparts. I have an older type boiler with 1 pump which appears to do both h/w and c.htg as i have been trying to get some rads working again. I noticed the pump (as mentioned) seems to do both systems as it was hot when c.htg has been off for sometime. Is this normal?
    Also, i do not have any gate valves on the pump. How do I remove the pump to check it or replace it with no valves? Whole drain down & safe to do? Many thanks. Dan

  21. Links to the tools I use everyday here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts

    Plus, follow my Vlog “TimesWithJames”: http://www.youtube.com/c/timeswithjames

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *