Hey Everybody! My name is Mike Montgomery, and today I would like to show you how to turn an attic like this… Into a home theater like this on Modern Builds When LG reached out about sponsoring an episode of modern builds to promote their new laser 4K projector, the LG Cinabeam. I told them I had the perfect project. My dad has wanted to convert this space into a home theater for well over a decade and since father’s day is right around the corner, I think it’s perfect timing to get that done for him. The LG Cinabeam is not your average projector. On top of having an amazing picture and being incredibly bright, it’s designed to be portable all around your house all the way from projecting onto a blank wall like what we are doing in this theater room, to projecting on the ceiling above your bed. It’s light weight, convenient to carry, and even has a built-in cord reel. How cool is that!? I’ll be giving you guys a proper run down. Clip of the office. “Hey dude, do you know what a run down is?” On this projector a little later on in this video. But right now I just want to give a big thanks to LG for making this whole project possible. And now, Let’s get this project started. Welcome to my parent’s attic where it has looked about like this for the past 15 years since they built the house that I grew up in. Of course attics come in all shapes and sizes but I think this is pretty common built into the roof line of your house. That’s why we have this half wall running the full length of the space and this pitch to the roof. But it’s a great size room. It’s about 24 feet long and 14 feet wide separated into three platforms that gradually get lower for more head room. So now that we’ve got all that covered let me catch you up to speed with what we have already done. Yesterday, myself along with a friend Andy who is a certified electrician, roofed in all the electrical. I started out by putting a box everywhere we either wanted an outlet or a plug. They just nail onto the sides of stud really easily. Then I drilled holes in the studs all the way around the room so we could feed wire from each of those boxes. In this room we have one circuit dedicated to the outlets and a second circuit dedicated to all of the lighting. As Andy fed the romex from one box to the other he was sure to leave about a 12-18″ lead coming out of each box, that way there was plenty of wire to work with whenever it was time to wire the outlets and switches. Installing the canes for the recess lighting wasn’t tough either it was just a little annoying having insulation in the way while I was trying to work. I’ll leave the ones that I used linked below. They are IC rated and air tight meaning that they can come into direct contact with insulation without being a fire hazard. It’s also nice that they are adjustable, they can slide to be centered on the rafters. and tomorrow I’ve got a crew coming to get all of the dry walling done. Of course dry walling is something that you can DIY but this room has a lot of angles and I am not that great of a dry waller. I’ve only ever done dry wall repair work and I know that I would take a long time to get this room done. I’m on a tight time line and I want a good quality finish so I think this is where it’s worth it to call in the professionals. I was really surprised to see how these guys hung this dry wall. No special tool or equipment they just used their head to hold the dry wall up and a hammer and nails to hang the actual drywall. After all the panels were installed they came back to reinforce all of the corners with what’s called corner bead and this is just pin nailed in. After that they mixed up a lot of joint compound and taped and mudded all the seams. It was awesome getting to see the different trouls and tool that they used to get different profiles. Like this bull nose that they used to round over all of the inside corners. Over all this job took them 3 days. I couldn’t imagine how long this would have taken if I would have tried it myself. No funny enough, I didn’t have them dry wallers cover up the window in the attic. At the time we weren’t sure if we wanted to project directly onto the wall or have one of those pull down screens. But after looking at pinterest and seeing a lot of reference images directly projecting was definitely the way I wanted to go. So I hung a piece of drywall over that window and got some joint compound and taped and mudded the patch. After applying a liberal amount of joint compound to fill all of the voids in the seams, I used tape to help strengthen the joint between the existing pieces of drywall. Using the putty knife to sink the tape into the mud and help smooth everything out really reduced the amount of sanding that I would have to do between coats. And since this is the wall that I am going to be projecting onto I’m about to do what’s called a skim coat to smooth everything out. Between the texture that the drywallers put on the wall and the patch over the window this is not a good surface to project onto. The first thing that I did was grab this 9″ dry wall sander from gator, loaded up with some sandpaper and knocked down that texture that had already been applied. Now I wasn’t trying to get this perfectly smooth, I just wanted to get those high points taken care of. After that I got some more joint compound but this time I watered it down that way it would be easier to apply with a paint roller. The consistency of drywall mud is something like smooth peanut butter. I wanted to water it down until it was more like yogurt. I used a high nap roller because I was going for volume here. I wanted a really think first coat because I’m going to be sanding everything down afterwards. What I found on this first coat was that the joint compound dries really fast even when it’s watered down. So I only did about a quarter of the wall then I came back with a dry wall knife and smoothed everything out. Then I repeated those steps three more times until I had the whole projector wall finished. Whenever you are using the drywall knife if you want to make sure you have a really soft touch. We are not trying to dig into the drywall compound, more float on top of it. Just to knock down any of the raised areas and minimize the sanding we will have to do afterwards. I used the same drywall sander as earlier with a little bit less pressure this time and with 150 grit sandpaper instead 120. Now I’ve seen people do multiple skim coats but after this first coat was on it looked really smooth so I decided just to go back and spot check any areas that needed fixed. I used my large drywall knife so I would have the biggest reference surface as possible and I filled in any voids before I sanded that down one last time. I should probably get ahead of the comments and explain why I’m painting this room white since it is going to be a home theater and the reason for that is that I like it and it looks good in photos. That’s it! The projector wall on the other hand is going to be painted with beir silver screen. I looked at a lot of home theater and AV forums online and I found that this is what a lot of people have used with good results for painting projector walls. I applied three coats with a high density foam roller to get a good smooth finish. Now that this paint is dry on the projector wall, I’ve got to test this thing out. I’ve got to see how well this skim coat worked. After a few weeks of work, and little sleep it was awesome to see how good this projector wall loos. Definitely better than a roll out screen. Pretty impressive right?! This is the LG 4K Cinabeam projector and it just might be the coolest projector I have ever seen. Holy Cow! Do you see how good this is?! This is only 100 or so inches, this thing can get all the way up to 150″ and in case your curious just how big 150″ screen looks I’m about to show you. Internally the super compact I shaped engine and cooling system allows for a much smaller footprint about half the size of traditional 4K projectors. This projector is built to be portable completely plug and play. It’s easy to scale your image and focus no matter where your at in the house. All you have to do is place your projector apposing the wall you want to project onto, raise the mirror, and your ready to go. You can have it standing up for a classic design or you can even lay it over so it can project in a more compact area. The LG Cinabeam is capable of automatically keystoning your image to make sure it projects square onto your wall. The magic remote is incredibly convenient. No more pressing buttons, all you have to do it point and click at what you want to select. So that’s all on this projector for now but stay tuned so you can see this thing in action during the big reveal. Let’s keep this project moving. So we are at a fun part of this project. I’m about to tackle the facer boards for each of these risers. The first one is about 6″ tall the second one being closer to 12″ and both of these run about 14″ long so I’m going to be splicing them right down the center of the room. After using a speed square to mark out the intervals for each one of the relief cuts I wanted to make I got my craig track saw set up and I set the depth of the blade at about 1/8″ I’m not cutting through the boards I’m just making a texture with these relief cuts. Towards the base of this foot board the relief cuts are only spaced out about a 1/4″ but the higher up on the board I space them out further almost for a sun burst effect. This is reminiscent of the DIY coffee table that I built while I was at my friend Chris Salamoni’s shop. If you haven’t seen that video the card is in the corner.