DIY Clothes Drying Rack | How to Make


I’m Brad Rodriguez from Fix This Build That and today. I’m gonna show you how to make a DIY clothes drying rack It’s an easy project that anybody can do check it out. I’ll show you just how I did it We’ve been updating our narrow laundry room and the center of the upgrades has been the new washer and dryer from Maytag the sponsor today’s video Now they’ve made doing laundry more efficient, but our drying rack was far from efficient It was super rickety and taking up too much space I needed a better solution This entire build is made from dimensional lumber and trim from the home Center with easy joinery. I started off by cutting the top bottom and sides for the folding part of the drying rack these parts are all 1 by 2’s Which I cut down from 1 by 4’s. But if you don’t have a table saw you can buy one by twos at the Home Center The sides hold 6 1/2 inch dowels that support the clothes. I clamp the sides together, and I laid out the positions for the holes so that they would line up perfectly. I used my drill press and a brad point bit to drill the holes halfway through the sides Now if you don’t have a drill press yet, you can use a hand drill as well I might suggest using a guide block to make sure that the holes are straight Next I drilled pocket holes in the top and bottom parts to join the rack together Then I cut down the six dowels that will go into the holes that I just drilled in those sides Gangue cutting these pieces speeds things up a little bit Assembling the drying rack is pretty straightforward, but a bit hectic I used a glue brush to get some glue and all the holes on one side Then I inserted all six dowels into that side I laid that side down and then glued and put on the opposite side I got everything lined up and clamped together the ends to assemble But I realized that the middle of the rack had bulged out a bit So I used one of the ends as a spacer and I pulled the sides tight with a clamp before securing the ends with pocket screws. I used 3/8 inch dowels to plug the pocket holes I’ll have a link up above to my six ways to fill pocket holes And you can see this little jig that I made and the five other ways to fill pocket holes Now using these straight cut dowels is my favorite way to plug the hole So I just glued and tapped them in with a small finish hammer While the glue is drying on the plugs I moved on to making the wall frame for the rack the frame is made from one by threes with one by two mounting pleats I cut the parts to size then laid out for a rabbet cut on the sides, top, and bottom and that’s gonna hold a quarter-inch plywood back The groove is half the thickness of the board’s in a quarter inch deep to match the thickness of the plywood I Made the rabbet with two cuts on the table saw I lined up the first cut to establish the depth of the rabbets Then I ran all the boards through at this setting Next I flipped the board on the edge and reposition the fence and the blade to make the second cut you could also use a router and a rabbeting bit to make this detail I drilled pocket holes in the top and bottom pieces as well as the mounting cleats, and I was ready to assemble the frame Now the frame goes together really easily as well, I just clamped the top and sides together and secure them with pocket screws Then I move the frame up and did the same for the bottom One by two mounting cleats go at the top of the bottom of the frame to help secure it to the wall I lined the cleat with the bottom of the rabbet and then I secured it to the sides and for good measure I went ahead and added two screws through the bottom into the cleat as well I did the same exact thing on the other end and then I moved on to some trim work I’m using a rare earth magnet to hold the folding rack in the upright position when it’s closed I’ve got a small spacer block and attached it to the top mounting cleat by predrilling and screwing it on from the back I’ll install the magnet here after I paint it To give the piece a little more character I cut some 1 by fours to trim out the top and the bottom I centered them on the frame and then screw them with two screws counter sunk into the trim pieces I finished out the trim with some nice cove molding. I installed the cove molding around the top and bottom pieces that I just installed I make a miter cut then take the molding to the frame and Mark for the next cut Iattach the trim pieces with a pin nailer and continued moving around the frame marking and cutting the miters to fit I finished up by filling the nail holes in any gaps with wood putty and sanding everything smooth Adding this little detail really gives the piece a lot more character and a custom look versus something store-bought The frame was ready for paint so I moved back to the drying rack I cut the dowels off using my flush cut saw Then I sanded them smooth and filled in any leftover gaps with wood putty for a smooth finish for paint While the putty was drying I took the time to cut the quarter inch plywood back panel to size Now the last thing the drying rack needed before paint was a cutout for the metal plate that will work with the magnet I used a small plate from a door catch for this and I traced its position on the top of the drying rack then he used a Forstner big to remove the bulk of the material for the thickness of the plate I came back with a chisel and I straightened up the sides of the recess and fine-tuned the depth until I got a flush fit with the plate After that I took everything outside and sprayed on two coats of white paint and when the paint was dry I started mounting all the hardware. I screwed down the middle magnet catch then moved on to the magnet I used a brad point bit to drill a hole for the magnet, and I test fit it to make sure it was flush And even though brad points usually give clean holes. I got some tear out on the edge of the soft pine If this happens to you I find that a little paintbrush borrowed from your kids art Supply works perfect to touch up any little raw wood that was exposed When the paint dried I roughed up the magnet on a piece of sandpaper, then I glued it in place with some adhesive and I actually came back and then used a two-part epoxy later, which I think works out a little bit better I flipped the frame over and I installed a quarter inch back I used 3/4 inch 18 gauge brad nails and shot them around the perimeter into the rabbets Now the last thing that the frame needed was some small screw eyes to hold the chain for the drying rack I pre-drilled and threaded the screw eyes in and then a set of pliers here makes things a lot easier Once you start getting deeper into the wood I drilled and installed the matching screw eyes on the drying rack that I moved onto the hinges I’m using standard two and a half inch hinges to mount the rack to the frame I laid out the hinges on the drying rack and trace through the location then pre-drilled them for the screws and hand screwed on the hinges Then I centered the drying rack in the frame and I lined up the hinges with the edge of the frame to make sure that I had a flush fit I Pre-drilled and screwed the hinges into the frame and then gave it a test run is working great To hold the drying rack in the extended position I used some light chain I got a 5-foot length of chain and doubled it over to get two equal sides I’ve been open the link in the middle and made two chains out of it Then I loop the open link around the screw I that I installed on the frame and bent it back closed to hold it in place I did the same thing to the other side and I was ready to go to the laundry room I used some two by fours on edge to hold the frame in place and I drove a screw into the wall stud my studs on this wall or 24 inches on center, so I could only hit one stud I leveled the frame then I secured through the bottom plate as well I reinstalled the drying rack by securing the hinges to the frame Then I needed to size and install the chains that wasn’t very scientific I just found an angle that looked like a good combo of space between the rungs for clothes to hang while not sticking out too far I bent the chain links open where I wanted the chain to end and then I remove the excess chain Then I wrapped that open link around the screw eye on the drying rack and just bend it back shut I did the same thing on the other side and the drying rack was all wrapped up This is gonna be a nice addition to our laundry room it’ll help us function a little bit better without the need to store that huge clunky metal folding rack I want to give big THANK YOU to Maytag for sponsoring today’s video That washer and dryer combo is working out really well for us and the power wash cycle on the washer is attacking those tough stains that my kids put in their clothes and believe me They can do a good job at getting clothes dirty if you want to know more about the Maytag products There’s a link down below in the description for you. If you want to build your own DIY Drying Rack there’s a link down below in the description of the project plans for this. It’s got 3d parts diagrams, step by step instructions, and everything you’ll need to make the projec. if you’re not subscribed to the channel already I’d love to have you as part of the team and until next time guys get out there and build something awesome!

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