DIY Dog Gate That Is Stylish And Functional

DIY Dog Gate That Is Stylish And Functional


Hello everyone and welcome to The Hippie Geeks! This is our dog Sophie. While she may be cute, she has a deep, dark
secret. She loves to eat not only cat food, but cat
poop as well. Actually I am pretty sure she prefers the
poo nuggets to the food, she is just that disgusting. I am done dealing with it, and in this video
I am going to show you what I did to prevent it. This is our Kitty Cafe area currently. It is easy to access for cleanup, but that
also means that it is easy access for Sophie. Whenever we leave the house, we have to build
a fort out of kitchen chairs just to keep her away. Sometimes we forget, and come home to find
litter on her nose and a guilty look in her eye. I was going to make a permanent barrier to
go here, but we decided on something else instead. This is the area we will be moving the Kitty
Cafe to. It is an alcove by the ferret cage, underneath
our winter herb growing shelf. The litter box will get tucked behind the
old storage boxes, with the food and water on the other side. All we will need to do now is make a barrier
to keep Sophie out. Now it’s time to go dig thru our wood pile,
and see what we can do. Step 1: Determine the Pattern I found a leftover
piece of 1/4″ MDF from another project, which will work perfetly for the central part of
the partition. As the intent is to keep Sophie out but to
let the kitties in, we need a cat sized opening. We have always liked the shape of the middle
eastern arches, and that is the shape we emulated. I sketched out a few lines to make it easier
to mirror the arcs and then got it drawn out and ready to be cut. Step 2: Cut the Materials I had already determined
how wide I needed to make the barrier, and had marked the MDF accordingly. Before cutting it on the tablesaw I just needed
to verify the measurement. As always, measure twice, cut once. Though really that should be measure two or
four times, because once you make that cut, there is no going back. Now its time to get the table saw ready, and
set to make the cut. Always be incrediably careful when using a
table saw. Mine does not have a guard, which makes it
even more dangerous. I am extrememly careful with it and even then
I nearly cut my thumb off a couple of years ago. However their danger is matched by their usefulness
and as long as you are careful they are definitely worthwhile. I needed to make one more adjustment, and
then this happened. Yes, the plastic handle broke right off. I am not terribly surprised as it was really
cold out that night, but I was really disappointed. However the show must go on, so I used my
trustly leatherman and it was able to get me thru the rest of the project. Time to make the cut. Always keep your fingers well away from the
blade. Gently push the wood thru, and as long as
you measured everything correctly it will be right on the line, leaving you with exactly
what you wanted. Now it is time to cut the 2×2 framing that
will go around the MDF. First I am going to cut each of the pieces
to length, squaring off the ends. I will miter them all after I have them cut
to the correct size. Next I will miter each of the ends at a 45
degree angle. These angles will match up all the way around
and give the finished project a very clean look. I want to inset the MDF into a notch we will
create in the framing. First I am going to measure how deep I want
the notch to go, in this case 1/2″. Then we have to set how wide we want the notch
to be. Our MDF is 1/4″ thick, so the notch will need
to be at least that wide. I am going to set my blade just past the center
of the 2×2. That way I can run the piece thru, then flip
it around and run it thru again and it should give me the size I want. You can use this method to make even wider
notches by simply moving the guide out after each cut. Once you have it set, run all four of the
pieces over the blade twice, flipping the piece around between each pass. Make sure that you are cutting on the correct
side, as having the notch on the outside will mean you need to re-do the piece. At this point it started to rain, so I took
the camera inside before finishing up. I cut a pair of 12″ feet to go on the bottom,
and rounded the edges with our palm sander. A short while later the rain stopped, and
I brought the camera back out. It was time to cut out the kitty opening in
the MDF. I am going to cut it out using a jigsaw, but
that requires a pilot hole. Use a drill bit at least as large as the width
of the blade. Place the hole in the corners and then get
the jigsaw ready to do the rest. Use the jigsaw, and carefully follow the lines
you drew to cut out the shape. Take your time and be very careful. Dont worry if there are minor imperfections
in your cut as that will be evened out with sanding, but make sure to not stray too far
from your line. Once you are done with the first side, move
around and do the other side. We are going to leave the bottom for last,
as there is a measurement that we need to verify. Grab the framing piece that you will be using
on the bottom. We want the opening in the MDF to be flush
with the framng piece, so slide the MDF into the groove, and mark where the edge really
is. Again, take your time and cut nice straight
lines, finishing up the opening in the MDF. Step 3: Sand Everything At this point, you
are going to want to take some time and sand everything that we just cut. Smooth our all the edges, sand off any markings
that the wood had, and in general just clean everything up. This is the main prep work that needs to happen
before you apply a finish to the wood, and as we will be assembling the pieces before
we paint they will need to look as good as possibly now. If you need to use wood putty, this is the
time to do it along with any other repairs needed. Step 4: Assembly With all of the work requiring
power tools done, I was able to move inside. I started by laying out all four pieces of
the framing. Then it was off to find the wood glue, which
will take considerably less time in this video than it did in real life. Take the glue, and spread a nice solid bead
along the notch that was cut into each piece. You dont want to go crazy with it, as any
extra will just be squeezed out and make a mess, but you want to be sure you have enough
in the that it will be able to cover all of the surfaces. Next, grab a paint brush or a q-tip, and spread
the glue around to the three sides of the notch, this will make sure that you get the
strongest bond possible. You can also use screws in the four corners
for extra stability, but as we will be using a clear coat on the framing instead of paint,
I want it to look as clean as possible and will be relying on the glue to hold it all
together. Finally, we are going to get some glue on
each of the mitered faces. Again you want to get enough on there to cover
everything without putting so much that you will have a lot of extra squeeze out when
you clamp it all together. Now it is time to put the framing and the
MDF partition together. Wood glue doesn’t dry very quickly, so take
you time as there is no reason to rush. Place all of the framing pieces around the
partition, and line the corners up as best you can. You want it to all be pretty well lined up
before proceeding to the next part. This is the part where we clamp everything
together. A lot of the strength of a glue bond is determined
by the clamping pressure used. A strong even clamping pressure will help
to insure that your project will not fall apart. This is especially important when you will
not be using screws or nails to help hold the joint together. They make fancy clamping kits for use with
picture frames, but as our framing is made out of 2×2 material, we can simply use a ratchet
strap. make sure to run it nice and flat all of the
way around the frame. Use the ratcheting mechanism to clamp it all
together tightly, making sure that it doesn’t slip off and that the frame isnt looking out
of square. Once it is clamped together, we are going
to check to make sure that it is still square. With any rectangular structure the fastest
way to check that it is square is to measure the distance from opposite corners at an angle
across the piece. If the two numbers from each side match, then
what you have built is square. If one of the numbers is larger than the other,
bring the two corners with the longer distance closer together and check again. Once they match you know it is square. When it is done being clamped, it is time
to walk away for a couple of hours and let the glue dry. It will not be fully cured at that point,
but it will be enough that we can finalise the assembly. After letting it sit, come back and remove
the ratchet strap. Pick the piece up, and make sure that the
glue has cured enough that it doesnt fall apart. If everything looks ready, its time to get
the feet put on. For this part, we will need a drill and a
couple of screws. As we will not be seeing the bottom of the
piece I am fine using screws here to strengthen the bond. Take the feet, and mark where the midpoint
is for placement of the screw. Countersink the holes into the wood, but be
sure that it doesnt come thru and drill into the rest of your piece, or your kitchen table. Seriously, do not put holes in the kitchen
table, you will never hear the end of it. Take the screws, and drill them into the countersunk
holes. You dont want to screw it all the way in,
just enough so the tip pops thru the other side. This will help to hold it in place as you
sink the screw. Once you have the screw started, put some
wood glue around the area the screw tip is placed. Flip the piece over and get ready to attach
the feet. Place the foot on the bottom, and line it
up where you want it to go. Use the drill and sink the screw in. The two pieces will likely not be tightly
attached, so simply back the screw out, and then sink it right back in. This should make the pieces suck in tightly
together, making for a strong bond with the glue. Do this for both sides, and then flip the
piece over and admire your hard work. Here is the completed barrier. We could have just used an off the shelf dog
gate, but that wouldn’t have allowed the cats to get thru, and wouldnt have looked nearly
as stylish. This concludes part one of this project. In Part Two we will be painting the MDF, and
clear coating the frame and feet. Would something like this be usefull in your
life? If so, I would love to hear about it down
in the comments. If this is your first time here on The Hippie
Geeks it would be wonderful to have you subscribe! This channel is all about helping you unleash
your life and create a world that you love. Creating something yourself is an amazing
way to not only help out your wallet and the planet, it feels great to be able to do it. Subscribe, check out some of our other videos
and come back every Wednesday for fresh content! Thanks again, and we will see you on the next
one.

3 thoughts on “DIY Dog Gate That Is Stylish And Functional

  1. I love this! Been struggling with store bought dog gates not fitting my out of plumb doorways for years. The idea of attaching feet to the bottom is brilliant!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *