DIY Water Well Drilling – 6 Ways To Drill Your Own Well in 2018

DIY Water Well Drilling – 6 Ways To Drill Your Own Well in 2018

If you’re watching this video you probably want to drill your own water well, and I’m going to briefly summarize the six main ways you can do that. There’s a lot of confusion. It’s hard to figure out exactly what you’re doing when you first start out in this. I work in the well drilling industry, so it’s very easy for me to summarize exactly what you need. So your options are like this. They’ve been drilling wells by hand for thousands of years. You take a shovel. You go out and you dig a hole in the ground about three foot around and you keep going until your feet touch water. This is a lot of work as you may imagine; it’s also kind of dangerous because the walls can collapse on you, and it’s limited by the fact that the deeper you go, the father it is to pull that dirt back out of the well and the more dangerous and more risk of cave in there is, so if you have to go more than about 20 or 30 feet it’s really not a great option. You can do deeper than that, but it’s not recommended by pretty much anybody. Next you have what’s called a well point. Now you can drive a spike about a 4 foot long, 2 inch diameter spike in the ground. You just keep adding length of pipe to the top of it, and you just put a hammer and you go bang and bang and bang until that pipe disappears. Again you keep doing this until you can suck out water. This is also limited by the fact that you only can go about 25 feet or so before it won’t work anymore. This is because you have to suck the water out of the hole, which means the type of pump that you’re able to use will not really be able to pull water deeper than that. You need a shallow well pump for this, and they’re limited to about 25 or 30 feet at most. So this is also a lot of work. I mean you’re taking a sledgehammer and you’re going bang several thousand times to get this down there, and sometimes it doesn’t ever work, and sometimes there’s no water down there. So this is an ok system, and it’s fairly cheap, but it’s a lot of effort and there’s no guarantee of success. The other option that you can use is called jetting, and this is where you take a water hose and hook it up to a length of pipe, usually two-inch pipe. And you just kind of hit like this and just kind of push it into the ground, and gradually the water blows the sand back away and you just keep going deeper. You can rotate and put some little teeth on the end, and you can just keep going deeper and deeper and deeper. This is also limited by the fact that you can only go about 30 or 40 feet before you start getting real problems with getting the water out and pulling up the mud out of the well. Also the major limitation with this is, obviously, it’s blowing out sand. It doesn’t blow out rock, and it really doesn’t blow out clay all that well. So unless you have a very easy well and a very shallow well you need to dig, maybe 20 30 feet, none of these first three options are really all that practical. Now, you can do them, and they are fairly cheap, although they are usually labor-intensive, but if these options won’t work for you, then you have to start at the other end, and so we’ll start the other end and we’re going to work our way back down from the most expensive and back our way down. So on the other end, you have hiring a professional. You go to the yellow pages, you dial up somebody and say “come drill me a well”, and they usually charge between 10 and 40 dollars per foot. And they usually won’t even talk to you if you don’t go at least a hundred foot deep, and they like to go 300 or 400, or 600 feet deep. So you’re looking at between 4 and 15 thousand dollars to have a professional drill your well. That’s about a typical price, and your average range is going to be about 6 or 7. This may or may not include the pump afterwards. So this is a big chunk of money, but there’s very little headache involved. You pick up the phone you say “Come drill my well”, you write them a check, they’re gone, it’s done. Now I hear horror stories every day from people who have professional well-drillers drill them wells and either overcharge them, they go deeper than they really needed to, they don’t case it right and the well caves in later, but by and large, if you pay someone to drill you a well, you’re likely to get a decent water source and not have to think about it too much. If you want to do it yourself the most powerful method you can use is probably the Deep Rock or the Hydro-Drill system. They’re basically the same thing, just different brands. What that is it’s a derrick that sets about here, it’s about this big around, and it has a big motor on top that twists the drill stem. On the bottom of that drill stem you’re going to have a bit, fairly complicated depending on what kind of bit you get, and you’re going to have a big pump that pushes water down through the pipe and blows water out the bottom and up around to get your tailings out. This requires a large settling pond, something on the order of about, you know, 20 or 30 feet in diameter, with a big piece of plastic laid down in it. It takes a lot of area, it’s quite a bit of a mess, it’s a lot of work, and again I work in the well drilling industry. I hear a lot of horror stories but what happens with this because you’re dealing with a metal drill stem. That drill stem drops a hundred feet in the ground, 200 feet in the ground. You’re looking at having a couple hundred pounds of pipe in the ground which means that, there’s a winch attached to the system, yes, but if you slip, if the winch doesn’t quite grab right, all of a sudden your well stem drops when you’re trying to pull the well out, and it’s down 50 feet in the ground. How are you going to pull it out? A lot of times you never do get it out. So there’s problems with this system as well. Also you’re looking at between, the absolute minimum you’re going to be paying for a system like this is about 3 grand and up to about five or six depending on how hard a dirt you expect to drill through. And so we’re back in the range of just paying someone to come do it for you and not having any headache. So this has been around for about 50 years. It does work. The main advantage is that people can use it over and over again. So if you need a bunch of wells, or you and your neighbor both need wells or whatever, it’s a decent system. Don’t get me wrong, it does work, but it’s expensive, and it is a lot of work. It’s very heavy. So in the well drilling industry there’s a big gap between the 20 or 30 foot wells that don’t cost you very much but are really labor-intensive and the four or five thousand dollar wells that do cost a lot but do get the job done. So there’s that big gap there, and that’s where I come in. This is what we do for a living. So this is our well drill. Now this is an air-powered motor, which means that you hook up this air hose to a large compressor and this to a piece of PVC pipe. This air hose comes down here and it spins this bit like so, and then the exhaust from the motor goes up the pipe and that creates a suction so that water that’s in the hole is blown back up and out the top. So it’s the opposite of the Hydro Drill in that it blows water down and lets it float out. We blow our water down the outside and let it come back up by the power of the air. I drilled a well with this drill last year to 175 feet deep, and I did it in 25 hours. That’s a little bit above average to be honest. That’s actually a pretty good time. I’ve been doing this for a long time. But we drilled through sand and a fair amount of clay, a little bit of rock. This drill will drill rock. Now, I’m not going to pretend that it’s as good as a hundred-thousand-dollar machine. That’s obviously not, but it will drill through it. I’ve had customers who drill through solid granite, but it’s extremely slow. In those kinds of hard rocks you’re looking at half an inch, maybe an inch, two inches an hour max. But if you’re drilling in clay, you can get between three inches and three feet an hour. Drilling in sand you can get between 5 and 25 feet an hour. Like I said I drilled a 175 feet in 25 hours, and a lot of that was sand, and I did it in an average of about 25 feet per hour. One of the main advantages of this drill is that you can pull this drill out check the bit, sharpen it, put it back down the well all in less than five minutes. No other drill on the market can do that because if you pull out the Hydro Drill, you got to crank it up, tighten it down, loosen it out, crank it up, tighten it down, and winch it up. And you’re spending 2-3 hours just pulling the drill. So if you have a problem: the well starts to cave in, something goes weird down there, and need to get the drill out of the well in a hurry, all you have to do just start pulling it out. The pipe is flexible so you can just have someone walking over the hill with it; you just keep pulling it out hand over hand, and you’re out of the well in 30-40 seconds. So it’s very flexible. The whole drill here with the bit and everything weighs less than 10 pounds so you can pack it in some place where you can’t get anywhere else. You can do it behind a house in a residential area. You can go a lot of places that you could not get a real well drill or a professional rig in there. So it’s extremely portable, extremely lightweight. The only thing it really requires is a large air compressor. You have to be able to put out at least 16 CFM at 90 PSI, and that’s usually about a seven or eight horsepower compressor or more because that’s the power source, that’s what turns this. The more power you have, the better it’s going to work. If you start dropping below that, your drill is not goingto run as well. So this system I’ve used to drill 210 feet deep. You can drill through solid rock, but it’s going to take a lot of time. If you have to do a lot of solid rock, to be honest, I would recommend you just go to Hydro Drill or Deep Rock or just get a professional to do it. This can be extremely tedious, but if you’re doing anything else, sand, clay, a little bit of rock, then I think this drill is the best option on the market. Now obviously I sell this drill, so I’m a little bit biased, and you really can’t trust me. But do the research. What I’ve listed for you here today are the main options, and they are the main strengths and weaknesses of each system. Look into them. See what it costs to do it in your area, see what you really need to do, and I think you’ll find that this drill is the best value out there. I did because that’s how I got started with this in the first place. I didn’t wake up one morning and say, “I want to sell well drills for a living”. I woke up, and I said “I need a well”. And so we looked around; I did the research — the stuff that I just summarized for you — I did all that, and I found that there was just nothing in my price range that would do the job I needed. We couldn’t just go 20-30 feet. We had to go deeper, and I couldn’t afford to pay $5,000 for a well, so we spent the better part of 2 years developing this drill and making it so it would drill through all these kinds of soils and designing ways for the water to come up here and the air to come up here and everything to go like it does, and then other people wanted to buy it. So we started selling these, and that’s what led me to where I am today. So visit our website, and let me know if you have any questions, and maybe by this time next year, you’ll be drinking water out of a well that you drilled yourself!

100 thoughts on “DIY Water Well Drilling – 6 Ways To Drill Your Own Well in 2018

  1. Good vid. I look at a lot of well drilling videos on utube. My father and his brother drilled many wells in southwest Arkansas and northwest Louisiana in the late 1940 and early 1950. That built there own rotary drilling rig on an old school bus chassis. Charged $1.00 a foot plus the cost of the pipes and pump.

  2. I did not see your website you mentioned going to. Also, do you have a video actually showing the product in action? Email me and let me know.

  3. His talk is clearly designed to sell his system. I've done 4 16-25 ft. well in the last 5 years. Buy a well point ($30), buy pipe (20ft $50), fittings ($20), and rent an electric hammer from Ace Hdw. ($25) and do the job in about 2 hours….

  4. To use a standard well pump a pitless adapter is most commonly used. Without a pitless adapter it's quite difficult to repair/replace pump should there be an issue.

  5. My well is 54 feet deep and it is sitting in a seven foot deep well pit. It was hand driven by two men in the 1960s.  It is a 2 inch pipe and it has a 1 1/4 inch drop pipe inside it hooked to a Deep Well Jet pump.  We were in this house I built here in 1977 one year when one of those men pulled in the yard and gave me the original book for the pump and written on the back of that book is all of the info on who did it, how deep it is and how long it took them to do it.  They made a scaled up 120 pound driver like a T-Post driver and the top pipe was always their driven pipe.  Both of these men were cement block layers and were used to lifting 40 to 50 pound blocks all day.

  6. I have used this drill and it works. It can be hard to keep the hole straight but it's not a huge issue. If you don't have to drill deep, in rock or need a big hole, this is a good option. I have also used his mud pump design to clean out old wells and my son used it to pump out his septic to make a repair. The is a ton of good info on his web site and you can learn alot about drilling and setting up wells. He is also very helpful and wants you to succeed. The bottom on all this is if you have more time than money he can help you get a well dug.


  8. "solid granite"??? I'm sorry but that can't drill through granite which is one of the hardest rocks on the planet.

  9. I can tell you that I used this system and have had a well for the last six years now. I works great and I even had to drill through shale. The well needs to be flushed now and I'll probably use the same tool to do that too.

  10. I just moved into an old home. One of the 2 original houses in the area and there is an old broken pitcher pump in the back. Also there is a creek running behind the property. The pump hasn't been used in decades or maybe it's decoration? But I wanted to know the possibilities of redoing it. If there is a creek there has to be water right? Just need some advice from anyone who's experienced. I want to turn the house back into a tiny farm one day. Need to clear out a lot of woods and having water for irrigation would be awesome. Thanks for any replies I get!

  11. Thanks for the video. I've never drilled a well and have never had one drilled. I inherently understand I'm drilling a hole in the ground, but what about what to do after I hit water, etc. etc. does the dvd set tackle that part?

  12. Regarding the first method (digging an old-fashioned well with a shovel): The safest way I know of to do that involves putting stacked concrete culvert sections in the hole and digging out from under the edge of the lowest section, allowing the entire stack of culvert pieces to slowly sink into the earth. This greatly reduces the chances of a cave-in, assuming you dig evenly a little bit at a time, keeping the bottom culvert section level at all times. A winch and pulley and someone up top to operate it would greatly reduce the work load vs trying to dig such a well solo. I would not even attempt to dig this type of well without something like this system to prevent a cave-in. I'm not sure what the maximum safe depth of this system is. I seem to recall hearing of one guy digging a well a little over 80 feet deep with this method.

  13. Wow, clear concise and states his bias right up front…. thank you for this presentation.  I need help finding out what is below my land.   Peace

  14. Hi. When do you think you will upload the video of you crushing that 300lb gold ore specimen? There are still a heap of your viewers waiting for the upload. Cheers, Jason ✌️

  15. I certainly respect for what you’re doing and believe you should get paid for your idea or invention. But for a item not in the mainstream market it can be difficult to sell. One of the best ways to advertise is word-of-mouth and that can be achieve by getting your product in the field and in to the hands of people that can share your information and talk about it with other farmers or people of need of a well. This could require test units either discounted or donated to get the ball rolling. Maybe you have done this?

    This is nice but I doubt the materials in your home a drill bit cost less than $100, maybe 200. From the design I can see you reinforced the bit by welding. Used a nomadic air tool most likely waterproofed. What looks like a washing machine hose for connecting water hose or air / both. PVC pipe that required some heating to fit everything inside.

    I’m interested but way above my budget but definitely cheaper then the alternative.


  16. All they do is> get a Work Over Rig , to drill a water well with Hammer, drill pipe, collars, casing , rock bit, water and a air compressor They use the water as a drilling fluid, and the compressor to jet the water

  17. Trouble is getting a compressor that big. My method uses a homemade drill derrick attached to my skid steer. It works well but you do need the settling pond as you mentioned. The pump is also essential to keep the bit from clogging. Where we have coral rock it was not uncommon to make a tripod and use a string to drop a weight on a steel pipe and go down 20 feet or so.

  18. Great video. Is there any techniques a homeowner can try, to increase their GPM flowrate in their well ? My well was drilled 8 years ago, and sat unused . The driller told me I was getting about 3gpm when he drilled it 8 years ago. I just tested it, and Im now only getting around 1 GPM….im guessing it may have clogged up some of the underground inlets that allowed water to seep into the well and fill it. Can I try and fix this with some chemicals or something else ? Ty

  19. is it an straight impact wrench? where can i buy the pneumatic motor? 6:40 the ? egg beater drill bit ? should look like a pdc drill bit.

  20. You say you sell this drill. I can't see any site that shows it. Just drilling methods. Site is slow as slow. I don't know how to buy a drill that has no information and cost. Frustrates the crap out of me when you are interested make attempts and nothing. So just provide the info its not that hard. I mean drill information not videos

  21. Blahblahblaaahhh… Why did you bother filming this out in the countryside when you're not even showing how easy this works? Talk is cheap.

  22. You should be aware that, however you drill a well, many places require a drilling permit. Why is that? Because when you drill a well, you can cause a cross-connection in the well packing between aquifer zones. For example if there is a surface aquifer recharged by rainfall and potentially contaminated with who-knows-what and a deeper zone separated from the surface aquifer by a layer of clay or rock; and you drill a hole through that layer: then forever more, water from the surface may flow down into the lower layer and contaminate it too. How could you have known?! That is what the permitting office does. At least find out if a permit is required before you start poking holes in the ground. It could save you a lot of trouble later.

  23. What is the deepest anyone has drilled with this device? Is appears that the depth is only limited by the amount of hose that's available.

  24. Make sure that you check the laws in your state. Most states have certain restrictions regulating drilling your own well, I believe some states may forbid it altogether unless you are a professional.

  25. Am actually impressed by what you are doing, i come from Africa and i think your deluxe unit may be of a great benefit to the community in this part of the world. could you please let me know how i can acquire one of these gadget ?

  26. I couldn't understand half of what he said. fuckin guy talks faster than he can completely pronounce words. fuck sakes :/

  27. Great video, I learned a lot. Thanks for the alternative methods to well digging. I'll check out your product, it sounds good. I'd rather be self sufficient than pay people to do it. Gotta learn sometime.

  28. Thanks for the info! I have a well with a shallow water pump. We need to pour concrete where the well currently sits. Is there a way to move just the apparatus so I don't lose the well or have to dig a new one?

  29. I looked at the website & the video you reference in the info. Compared to the t bar hand drilling system which has loads of vids & successfully dug wells, why aren't you showing that it working properly, even on the vid you see this fucking asshole shoving a tube in the ground, I can imagine how it works but it's not the same as seeing. Is it because your talking allot of horse shit.

  30. You have to buy the video that actually show you how to drill the well. I would think if this system really works well you would post how to use it vidoes here instead on an infomercial and then take questions. I drilled a shallow well and it was not easy at all and you get cave ins after a certain deepth, yet no mention how you deal with that; are you adding material to strengthen the well sides. Assuming you are using 3" PVC you will constantly have to stop and adding new sections of PVC pipe and glue it up. I want to drill a deeper well due to the iron you get from a shallow well, but $700 for a system that I have no confidence would even work with no vidoes showing people actually doing it from start to finish and no reviews; very high risk.

  31. 10 lbs….just the end…but he failed to mention the weight of the air hose 150 fest of air hose attached to that ….that is a lot of weight l. I have pullsd out a pump on the end of 120 feet of hose and it is very difficult ..very misleading….beside…anyone who speaks that fast slides in a little bs to fill in the breath voids…not interested….!

  32. Air compressor drill bit, only requires using a $5000 compressor. The other option that drilled most oil wells for decades of the first oil discoveries in the US it the chip bit. This is a chisel bit on a rope. Its dropped, constantly swiveling, chips into the rock with a constant drop/pull up somewhat/repeat/pull all the way out to get chips out/drop again starting the process over.

  33. He won’t show an actual demonstration because it doesn’t work. He said to not trust him. That’s his defense if you ever try to sue him or get your money back.

  34. I just went to his web site and bought the "how to video". Seem like a freaking awesome gadget being use around the world.

  35. I drove one down 75 ' 2" with a tri pod weighing 50 lb driver through a pulley to my pickup truck jacked up guy welding three rims together cut the center out of the first two so I can Bolt the rims to the axle you wrap the Rope around the rim 1 Loop start engine put truck in gear pull rope let go that drives your (must use Drive couplings the pipe at the top 12" long the driver. Will wreck the threads you keep using that one foot piece screw it in the five foot sections every time you change the pipe make sure you use a big pipe wrench keep all the fittings tight that was a 3in Sandpoint I hit water about 65 ft this was close to Spring Lake in Illinois 40 years ago you must get the water out of the pipe the dirty water you can really screw up your jet pump vanes I drank iced tea while I was driving it sitting in a chair are you getting the picture driver on top of the pipes feeding rope through pulley on tripod rope goes around the rim what the engine turning the rim at a idle get chair Loop rope around the rim pull on the Rope two fingers yes and get iced tea

  36. Ever tried using a long nosed dredge? Instead of blasting water INTO the ground, you could blast it in and suck it out at the same time, recycling the water, not drowning the area you're working in, and not turning the place into a muddy quagmire. Also you'll have all removed overburden for mineralogical sampling later.

  37. ok, why would this drill not torque twist and rip apart the cord and the air line it's attached to?
    It either needs counter-rotating blades or a fixed rigid pipe to attach to

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