Dryer Repair- Replacing the Drive Motor Assembly (Whirlpool Part # 279827)

Dryer Repair- Replacing the Drive Motor Assembly (Whirlpool Part # 279827)


Steve: Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. You’ve
determined to drive motor on your dryer has failed. We’re going to show you how to change
it. All you’re going to need is a putty knife, an adjustable wrench, a pair of slip
joint pliers, a large straight blade screw driver, a large Philips screw driver, 5/16th
nut driver, and may be a small flat blade screw driver, and you should probably have
a pair of safety gloves and goggles. Let me show you how it’s done. Now the first step in this repair will be
to disconnect the appliance from the power supply, if your dryer has a cord on it, simply
unplug it from the receptacle, if it’s hard wired you will need to find the breaker and
turn it off. The main top is held down with two clips in the front corners and a couple
of screws underneath the lint filter, so we’ll remove the lint filter first set that aside. Next we’ll remove the two Philips screws
they are hidden there. Take care enough to draw them down in to the air inlet; this is
going to be difficult to retrieve. Now there are two clips that hold the top to the front
panel, they are located all about two inches in on either side, so with our putty knife
we’re going to close to the top, we locate that, press in rid on it, and pull the top
forward, we have to lift off. Now your dryer should be push back enough
so that we can support the top up against the wall, so that it doesn’t fall backwards.
Now with the main top up next thing we want to do is disconnect the door switch harness,
just two wire harness here, your dryer may have three wire harness, but simply take small
flat blade lift it in underneath the connector free that tab and pull them apart. Now at this point probably you’re going
to want to put your safety gloves on, because we do find that there are sharp edges on the
metal here. Next there were two 5/16th hex head screws that secure the front panel to
the cabinet, simply remove those. Now we’ll pull forward on the front panel, now the drums
going to drop a little bit when we do that, but it won’t go anywhere. Next we’re going
to lift up on it, because there are two clips on the bottom that hold it at the bottom.
We have to remove the front panel we’ll just set it aside. Next step will be to remove the drum and the
belt, now in the right front corner you see idler assembly that the belt wraps around,
take note of how that belt goes around idler then around motor pulley then back it around
the drum. So I’m going to pull the idler pulley towards the cabinet, release the tension
on it, roll the belt off of the motor pulley and idler assembly will come way out it just
sits on the base. Next with the aid of the belt we’re just
going to lift up on that drum disengage the rear rollers and pull it through the front
of the cabinet, we’ll set that aside. Now with the drum out the way and the idler assembly
out of the way we’re ready to remove the motor and the motor is held to the motor carriage
with two spring clips one at the front, a wider one at the back, as well the blower
fan is connected to the back of the dryer it’s actually it’s rid it on to the shaft. So we’re going to pull the harness off,
remove these two clips with the blower fan off and then we can remove the motor. And
the lower clip for the wire harness from the motor is kind of heavy install, I would suggest
we take these two clips off first, and since the spring loaded sometimes it will have to
mind of the realm, it might be best if we put our safety gases on at this point. And with the large flat blade screwdriver
just engage one end of that spring clip pry outward on it, same thing at the rear one.
Remove both of those clips we can turn the motor slightly, so that we can get out that
retaining clip for the motor harness, just get that out, and remove the harness. Now
you’ll notice that the back of the motor where that blower wheel sits on there, the
blower wheel has a square shank on it. We’re going to take a larger adjustable
wrench and Fas nut right to the blower wheel straight down the motor with the left hand
thread so basically it means we turn clock wise to loosing it, the pair of slip joint
pliers and grab the front of the motor shaft with adjustable wrench and hold on to the
blower, now that normally firmly tight, so you may have to give it a pretty good snap
to get it loose, once it freed up these will turn off pretty easy. Now we can lift the motor out of its cradle,
we’re ready to install the new one. Now take note of the new motor that you’ve gotten
it will come with a single drive pulley on it, if your original has a single drive pulley
on it then just straight exchange, you may have a type it has a two speed at that point
you can elect to take the old pulley off of your old motor and install it on the new motor. As well take note of the motor harness connector
and switch if they are not the same the instruction sheet that comes with the new motor will indicate
what modifications need to be made. On this particular one it’s a straight exchange,
so that will be nice and easy. We’re going to engage the rear shaft in to the blower
wheel and then just let the motor sit in with harness loosely, and then we’ll try to spread
that motor shaft on to the blower. We have to hold that blower wheel towards
the front of the dryer enough of the switch to start to engage. Once you started we want
to lift that motor up and make sure that the two bushings sit in to the cradle properly.
Now with our adjustable wrench, our channel locks, I’ll lock that blower wheel on to
the motor shaft, now we’re ready to reinstall two mounting clips. Again you should have a safety goggles on
for this, wider part of that rear clamp two elongated tabs they go to the very back, here
slots in the two front portions that will hock on to the motor mount. We’ll engage
one side and with our flat blade put some pressure on the other side until it hocks
in place, and then repeat that procedure for the front one,
reinstall the wire harness to the motor, make sure that the locking tabs are outside the
body of the switch, and lock firmly in place. Now we’re ready to put our idler assembly
back in and the drum. Now that we have the motor in place I take
some time and show you where the idler bracket should sit, the slot in the base frame the
front of that idler bracket sits in to there, those two little tabs that will hock in on
the back. So when we finished position it should look like this, and our belt will come
around over the top of the idler beneath it around the motor pulley and back out and around
the drum. And this will tent to flop around a bit while you’re putting the belt on,
as long as you know the position that it should end up in you would be able to get it in place. We’re ready to reinstall the drum, we want
to make sure that this clew sits over top of the two rear rollers, and we may have to
rotate it a bit just to give it fall in to place, align the belt up approximately where
the wire marks will be on the outside of the drum, and we’ll reach in from the front,
and we’ll rotate that belt around the idler and the motor pulley. And we can rotate the drum clockwise just
hold against the back bulkhead; make sure that belt lines itself up. Now we’re ready
to reinstall the front panel. Our two spare rectangular hole at the bottom of the front
panel and we want to clip those just slide those over those two clips on the cabinet,
this point you will have to hold the drum back in to place and we’re ready to reinstall
the two 5/16th screws. Next reconnect the door switch harness connector,
make sure it snaps firmly in place, we’re ready to put the top down, just pull forward
on a bit, and then press down firmly in each corner. Next we’ll reinstall the two Philips
screws connect the top to the lint filter holder, and again make sure that we don’t
drop those screws down that opening, slide the lint filter back in to place, reconnect
the power and our repair is complete. We told you it was an easy job. Thanks for
watching and good luck with your repair.

5 thoughts on “Dryer Repair- Replacing the Drive Motor Assembly (Whirlpool Part # 279827)

  1. I followed this to the letter and it worked out very well for me. I wish every appliance I owned had an in depth video like this.

  2. Does the new motor have the same quality? The old one was made in USA. The new one is made in Mexico. Will it last?

  3. My dryer broke from having a bath mat that was too wet in it. It would no longer tumble and makes an electric hum then kicks off. I bought a new belt thinking it was that, I changed it but it still will not tumble and only makes a hum noise then kicks off??? I don't know what else could be the problem or if it is this drive motor assembly??? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. This happened in the spring, I'm just now trying to make the repairs!

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