Hang Drywall on Ceiling by Yourself…Bathroom Tips (Step-by-Step) — by Home Repair Tutor

Hang Drywall on Ceiling by Yourself…Bathroom Tips (Step-by-Step) — by Home Repair Tutor

So in this video I’m going to show you how
to hang a drywall ceiling. We’re going to do it over this plaster,
and I’m going to show you how to do that such that we get the screws in all the joists
or all the framing, and we don’t have any critical errors. And plus, in the end I am going to have a
pretty cool, pretty sweet power tool giveaway for you. So don’t miss out on that. You’re going to learn a lot of great tips
in terms of how to hang drywall today, but we’re also going to share a really special
tool that can make cutting out holes in the ceiling, like for this fan here, super easy. So let’s jump into the video. So in this video I’m going to show you how
to hang a drywall ceiling. We’re going to do it over this plaster, and I’m going to
show you how to do that such that we get the screws in all the joists or all the framing,
and we don’t have any critical errors. And plus, in the end I am going to have a pretty
cool, pretty sweet power tool giveaway for you. So don’t miss out on that. You’re
going to learn a lot of great tips in terms of how to hang drywall today, but we’re
also going to share a really special tool that can make cutting out holes in the ceiling,
like for this fan here, super easy. So let’s jump into the video.
This purple board is ½” thick. The reason why I’m using it is because we’re keeping
the plaster on the ceiling. So what I’m going to do is mark off –fortunately, I
opened up the ceiling—I’m going to mark off where the joists are. So here’s one
for example. They’re just to the right of this framing right here that’s in the bathtub.
So I know that like if I mark this off here, here, and here, that’s where I’m going
to put my screws for the drywall. All right, so the first thing I’m going
to do is get an exact measurement between this framing member and this wall. Actually,
it’s about 52 ¾”. So it’s 52 ¾” here, we’re going to go out about 4’ because
what we’re going to do is cut—the drywall piece that I have is a 4’ x 8’ piece of
drywall. I’m just going to cut it to about what I said, 52 ¾”. I’m going to take
¼” off of that, so I’m going to make it 52 ½” because when we get to here, we’re
going to put Schluter KERDI Board up—that’s going to be ½”, so it’ll cover that gap.
Over here I’m going to be mounting ½” purple board on that wall so it’ll cover
the little gap on that side. So I’m not really worried about shaving a ¼” off the
ceiling drywall we’re going to mount over the plaster.
One additional tip is make sure you go out the 4’, in this case because it’s 8’
x 4’ sheet. I’m going to go out 4’. I’m going to measure what the width is right
about here because if it’s not 52 ¾” and it’s something else, I need to adjust
for my cut. You know, what? Actually, we’re going to
go out about 47” because if I go out about 48” there won’t be enough room for the
other piece of drywall to meet up with this joist. So I’m going to go out about 47”.
And at that 47”-mark—it’s about 52 5/8”. So it’s not 52 ¾” here, so I need to
kind of make a tapered cut. But that’s fine; it’s not hardwood drywall.
So the other thing I’m going to do is mark the center of the joist that’s up in the
ceiling because what we’re going to do is split the difference. And then we’re going
to come out about half the width of that joist for my drywall so I can butt up the other
piece of drywall in the center of that joist. I’m going to mark the location of that on
the framing here. After a bit more measurement, what I found
was the total width of this piece is going to be 45 5/8”. Next step is to measure out
about 52 3/8”, like I said. And this will be 52 ½” because remember I’m taking
out a little bit off each stud. And I’m just going to cut this with a utility knife.
This sheet of drywall does have a tapered edge right here. We’re going to butt this
up against the doorway wall so that the other tapered edge is going to center up the ceiling,
and I’ll be able to make a pretty good taping job. It’s always nice to have two tapered
edges meet up so that when you go to tape, your taping is made a lot easier by that tapered
edge, and you’ll be able to fill it in and not to have to use too much joint compound.
Now since I’m not the most mechanically inclined person, I’d label the drywall with
the “door” on this side and “window” on this side. The reason why I did that is
so when I hoist it above my head, I will have the orientation correct. The other thing is
I labeled 14” in from the edge—this is where the first joist is located. And then
another 30 ¼” in from the edge—that’s where the second joist is located. So I’m
going to pre-drill some screws into these locations so that when I do put this above
my head, I can quickly screw it into the joist. Two additional tips. Number one, I’m using
2” coarse-threaded drywall screws. Always use coarse-threaded drywall screws for wood
framing; fine-threaded drywall screws for metal framing. So 2” because my plaster
is about ¼”, then the lathe is about ¼”, and then the new drywall is going to be ½”.
So that takes up a full inch. I want this screw to go 1” into the joist. So that’s
why the 2” screws. And then you should always be using a dimple
bit when embedding your drywall screws into the drywall. This makes a perfect dimple or
embeds the drywall screw perfectly into the paper, and it won’t tear out the paper.
There’s a train going through the neighborhood, whoo!
Now to make life a little bit easier on myself—I’m not feeling particularly strong this morning
because I’ve been up since 4am—I’m going to screw in the piece of 2’ x 4’ right
above the door here. That way, I can slide this end of the drywall up over this 2’
x 4’; it’ll hold in place. That will give me enough time to screw in the drywall screws
on this edge and then come over here. So this will hold the drywall for me while I screw
in some of the screws. All right. What’s nice about this 2’ x
4’ is it takes a lot of the weight off of me and gives me time to screw these drywall
screws into the joist. So that wasn’t too bad. That’s just up there enough such that
it gives me time to go get the screws, go get my dimple bit, and I can put all the screws
into the drywall paper such that it doesn’t tear the paper.
There’s where I wrote “window” on the drywall, so I got that right. Yey!
Here’s the dimple bit. You need a magnetic bit holder for your impact driver if you’re
going to be using one of these. Fortunately, there are Xs to mark the position
of the joist on the drywall. So you can kind of eye out where that X is on here and where
your screws are, and you can use that X as a reference to drive your additional screws.
Or you can snap a chalk line across this drywall. Now I want to share something with you. Is
this job absolutely perfect? No. I mean I broke some of the drywall right here; this
is the only place I broke it. And then some of my screws aren’t exactly flush. Now the
screws that aren’t flush are the ones that are in this tapered edge. So what I’m going
to do is obviously tape over it with paper tape and then fill that in with joint compound,
and you’ll never know that those screws aren’t exactly flush with the drywall. But
I wanted to let you know, like, it’s not perfect. So anyhow, just wanted to get that
off my chest. So basically I’m going to cut a piece of
drywall very much like I did for this first section. I’m going to put it over top of
this section of the ceiling in the bathroom. Now one last thing before I mount the second
piece of drywall. You need to get the center dimension for this fan and mark it somewhere.
So more about 7—doesn’t have to be perfect—about 7” over. All right, so that’s about right
here. By 19 ½”. So 7” x 19 ½”. The reason why you want to get the center dimension
of the fan is so you can poke a hole through that and run it over to the side with a RotoZip
and then cut out this square perfectly. So you have a perfect square revealing your bathroom
fan and your ceiling. I’m actually going to put the drywall up;
I’m not going to put screws on this edge. I’m only going to put them in about 16”.
I’m going to let this hang down a little bit, then I’m going to cut out the piece
for the fan. Okay. When placing your drywall screws through the
ceiling and into the joist, you want them to be no more than 10” to 12” apart along
the joist. Like I said, I’m always writing my dimensions
down on scrap something something. So here we go. This last piece is 4 ¾” on one end.
So this is right here on that end. This 5 5/8” is on this end; so it’s right here.
And then the total length is this 52 number right there. But what I’m doing is, again,
I’m subtracting ¼” from all these dimensions just to ensure that this little piece actually
fits. One thing here I wanted to share with you.
This is the tapered edge. This is my 4 ½” on this side; that is my 5 3/8” on this
side. I want the tapered edge to butt up against the other tapered edge on the ceiling, so
that when I go to tape my pieces of drywall, it’s so much easier to blend in a few pieces
and make them look like one. Now I have to measure over for where the fan
is. Unfortunately, I did write the dimension on this piece of lumber here. This is definitely
where the center is, or close to it. Now what we’re going to do is use a RotoZip to cut
out a perfect square opening for where that fan is.
And by the way, we actually have another video showing you how to do this, and you can watch
it right there. But this video is a little bit different because the fan set up on the
inside is a bit trickier—there’s actually wires and stuff hanging down. So I have to
be a bit careful when I cut this out with a RotoZip.
In one of our last videos where we hung drywall, Steve did use a RotoZip, and it did not have
the dustless technology. Now I want to tell you RotoZip did reach out to us after watching
that video and asked us to do a sponsored video, which was a no-brainer because we already
use RotoZip. And what they did was they sent out the RotoSaw+ with Dust Vault, and that’s
what I’m going to be using today. Now if you’ve watched any of my videos in
the past, you know that safety is one of my primary concerns. Sometimes you forget on
the job to wear a dust mask or wear goggles, etc. So if the tools are doing some of that
safety work for you, that’s a good thing. So I just assembled the Dust Vault onto the
RotoZip, and I’m going to show you how I did that. Very straightforward after you do
it the first time. There’s a symbol on the RotoZip, and there’s
a symbol on the coupler. You want to align these two symbols up like so and then clamp
it tight. Install the collet that you need for the specific bit that you’ll be using.
This is a collet for an 1/8” bit. I’m just going to slide it into the RotoZip. Press
the locking button, and spin the fan in place. You’re supposed to use this little tool
here, but I find that it’s just easier to spin it in place. Now if you’re more comfortable
using the tool, you can spin it like this. But you don’t want to fully tighten it.
You want to leave it a little bit loose. So this is the dust vault; they also call this
the fan housing. There’s a hole on this side, and there’s a hole on this side. You
just line those two up. And there’s a thumb screw that you use to lock it in place. Then
you push your bit in the whole way as far as it’ll go, and then you can bring it out
by a maximum of 1 ½”or 1 ¾”. So in this case, I’m going to bring it out by about
¾”. I’m going to press this button again on the bottom right here. You have to use
the little wrench here to tighten this down. That’s all there is to it. It’s pretty
simple to install. And this is the dust vault; this is what’s going to catch all the dust
in the drywall. Now there is sensitive wiring up in this bathroom
fan, and that’s why I’m running the RotoZip across the span of the fan so that I don’t
hit the wiring. I know it’s hard for me to explain this, but I did have a strategy.
Now what you can do is you can run the RotoZip counter-clockwise like I’m doing here and
cut out a little sliver of the drywall to make sure that you’re up inside the fan.
And it’s just a nice thing that you can do to double check that you’re actually
cutting out the drywall that you need to cut out. And then you can use the RotoZip along
the inside edge of the fan and cut along it. Allow it to guide you along that inside metal
edge. It’ll cut out a perfect square, or rectangle in this case. Now I am mechanically
challenged, and I meant to do this counter-clockwise, but I did it clockwise. I actually had a little
bit of a mistake up there in the corner, but not a problem.
Well there you go. That is how you hang a drywall ceiling. I hope that you like today’s
video. Now for the surprise. Down in the comments we’re going to be giving away a RotoZip
with the Dust Vault. So number one, tell me why you need the RotoZip. Number two, how
you’re going to use it—so what project you’re using it on. And number three, also
feel free to add your suggestions on drywall. So I’m sure I missed something on this video.
I’m not perfect, right? So if you have a drywall tip or suggestion, add it down in
the comments, and you’ll be randomly entered into the RotoZip giveaway, all right? So it’s
really that simple. And when you’re don adding your comment, you may want to head
back on over to HomeRepairTutor.com and sign up for our free newsletter because that way
you won’t miss out on our awesome giveaways—like today. And you’ll also learn about home
improvement via our tutorials which are written and in video format. All right?
So down in the comments I’ll read what you have to say about drywall tips and suggestions,
and you’ll be randomly entered into the RotoZip giveaway.
That’s it for today. Thanks so much for watching. I love our community. You’re awesome,
especially if you watch every week. So thank you so much. All right, we’ll see you soon.
Take care. Again fun times doing this with the light
here, camera there, ceiling here. I feel like I’m in the circus.

79 thoughts on “Hang Drywall on Ceiling by Yourself…Bathroom Tips (Step-by-Step) — by Home Repair Tutor

  1. Always enjoy your videos Jeff!I have a fixer upper we just moved into and I'm learning how to be a handyman so your videos I always look forward to.I have a laundry room with no drywall just concrete that we would love to cover.That tool seems pretty usefull! ;)thanks again for detail down to earth explanations for this rookie.

  2. hanging drywall up in my house can be useful with a rotozip
    I suggest using a drywall knife to make a small while to confirm your cutting away the right part and not Hitting any wires

  3. Thanks for another helpful video, Jeff! We have a section of drywall ceiling that has a small crack, I think due to the house settling over time. I'm not sure if I will need to cut something out with a tool like the Rotozip to fix this or if I'll just be able to patch the crack, sand, and paint it.

    On a slightly different topic, do you know if there's a specific tool designed for carving out a door frame for a doorknob strike plate? I just purchased new doorknobs to replace the ones in our bedrooms (that were probably installed when the house was built in 1979). The old strike plate is a circular shape, but the new ones bigger and rectangular, so I need to carve out the frame to fit the new one. I haven't had much success so far trying to do this with a utility knife, and I think I need to get the right tool.

  4. I need to do the same project in your video lol..So I know this tool would come in handy! It will be my 1st time though..Your video is helpful! Thanks for the chance to win this much needed tool! Wished I had tips lol

  5. I'm doing another rec room.

    If you don't have a wide grip to lug the wallboard, many stores sell a plastic "thing" to extend your grip for people that don't have a long reach.

    I personally like rounded corners where a wall meets a wall for an outside corner. These may be purchased at the store as well. I like them, because they take a lot less damage as compared to sharp 90 degree corners. Much more attractive then tacking up clear plastic protective strips on the sharp corners.

  6. I'll start a new subject, buying granite counter tops. Don't buy it from the place you buy your cabinets. Eliminate the middle man and extra cost by going to the granite dealer yourself. I was surprised to find so many of them around and near me in a Chicago suburb.

    Don't even think of putting in granite is DIY.

  7. Cool Tips, ive been using a drywall saw to cut holes for some outlet boxes, but it tends to become a big mess.

  8. Our bathroom needs a new fan because of some mold that is showing up and we decided to gut it completely so the Rotozip would be helpful for our complete bathroom renovation.

  9. In the process of removing sheet rock walls and putting up drywall throughout the entire house. Rotozip would come in handy as part of the process is also running new wire replacing the old aluminum wiring.

    One question I do have is what about angled ceilings? The help I have is very limited, and so far I have been unsuccessful hanging dry wall on our upstairs ceiling by myself. Right now running about 4' x 23" pieces, but even that makes for a some wild drywall installation. Any suggestions?

  10. soon ill be doing a reno in kids room and my son as asthma and the zip would help alot to cut down on dust.

  11. Great video well done Jeff! Love this bathroom construction series. I would use the rotosaw on side work that I do on weekend which would help expand me to do drywall work. I need it because I'm a Electrician and we use these same saws at work to cut in for electrical boxes.

  12. Finishing a bonus room in the attic above our garage and need all the help I can get. Drywall tip… Find friends that will work for pizza and beer (after the job is done 😊)

  13. Hi, great video. I found it because I am looking to insulate and isolate my ceiling for sound. I plan on removing the existing drywall, then installing sound clips into the joists. I will install Roxul Safe and Sound between the joists and putting sound pads on the electric boxes to reduce noise. I will also fill in cracks with sound dampening epoxy. I will then hang channels from the sound clips and drill the Quiet Board sheet rock into them. I plan on purchasing a drywall ceiling lift via eBay for a couple of hundred dollars. Oh and please consider me for that dustless routing tool. I will need that as well.

  14. Great video! I would use the roto for the attic I am working on. I need to put up drywall and cut out for lights and boxes. Also, I noticed that your 2×4's on your angled wall were not angled cut they were against the other 2×4 (your stud wall). Is there a right or wrong way to do this? I am putting up knee walls and was curious.

  15. Jeff,

    I am a new home owner and I'm trying to amass the tools required to renovate my home…DIY style. There are a multitude of projects that I have planned that I could put the RotoZip to use on, but my most pressing project currently is replacing an exhaust fan that is almost impossible to get to in the attic. I'm going to have to cut out the drywall ceiling, replace the fan, and then patch the drywall after the installation. This will actually be my first drywall project ever, and I know a RotoZip would come in handy. Thanks for all of the great videos and content!

  16. I could use the rotozip in my kitchen. We had a leak in roof vent that ruined part of drywall right next to a can light. Now need to cut a hole to make new drywall fit. Thanks for the video.

  17. I'd love to own a RotoZip. I have asthma and drywall dust chokes me up for days on end after I've cut it. I'm in the process of adding 6 pot lights to my bathroom ceiling, a new bigger fan, plus I'm putting in a new shower using Kerdi Board. The drywall there now has to come out. It's going to be a huge mess. This tool could really help me. I'm very much a novice at this so I have no tips except maybe not to leave big gaps between sheets of drywall when you're installing it. It happened to me and it was just horrible to fix. I'd rather hire someone to do this but I don't have the funds. Even if I don't win the RotoZip, thank you for the video and your tips.

  18. Hey Jeff. Thanks for another great video! I was actually planning on removing the horrible office drop ceiling in my living room that's covering the plaster ceiling. Can you believe that they put this in to cover the 12 foot ceiling! It's not only 10 feet which is still great but I can't understand some people's thought process lol. In any case the rotozip would be great to do the cut out for the ceiling fan and of course on other projects. Good luck to all who entered! #TIACREW

  19. 1) I need the Rotozip because it makes punching holes out in dry wall much easier. I'm currently just using a serrated blade and manually sawing through the holes.
    2) I would use the rotozip when I finish my garage. I would need to punch holes in the dry wall for the outlets, and light switches.
    3) When drywalling, i like using the paper tape for corners and i like using the mesh tape for joints.

  20. Jeff, nice video and instructable. Hanging drywall is something I knew I could do, just didn't really figure out the little ins and outs… like double gang box holes, and stuff. Two questions… 1) are you tearing up the bit using the vent as a guide? 2) why not cut on the outside so the flashing can go through the drywall?

    As for projects (for the rotozip), I have a gutted Airstream trailer that will be getting new walls and some new interior skin. A drywall blade and knife ain't gonna cut it and a jig saw will be a PAIN to keep clean cuts.

  21. I need the rotozip. We are doing the basement and after doing the kitchen,I want the jod to be easier. Im tired of the drywall dust everywhere. I look like the Ghostbuster's Stay Puft Marshmallow Man dipped in powder sugar.

  22. I need a Rotozip for a bathroom remodel to mitigate water damage. I am trying to get this done on a very limited income after a long stint of unemployment. I gave my father a Rotozip years ago for a remodel project he was doing, and he has used it extensively, so I know it is a sturdy and valuable tool. I don't have much to add for advice on drywall installation except that using drywall shims to level out your joists sure makes it a lot easier to get a professional finish later. Great video, and nice to see the dust vault in action. Thanks!

  23. I'll be totally remodeling a bathroom in the next year. This tool would be great for not only the ceiling fan but also the outlets plumbing cutouts and everything else. Nice trick with the 2 by for holding the drywall up while you work. Ceiling work is hard enough without having to hold everything in place with one hand and trying to attach with the other.

  24. Pretty cool video. I found this up on Popular Mechanics and checked it out because we have drop ceiling in a basement bedroom. Hopefully I can win that rotozip to install some drywall in the ceiling with recessed lighting.

  25. I've always wanted a RotoZip for the tricky DIY projects around the house. I have to hang a drywall ceiling in my laundry/mechanical room soon and while this video is helpful, I'm sure the RotoZip would make it even easier. 😉

  26. Thanks for the video. I'm building a small cabin and a rotozip will help me a lot working the drywall and the electric fixtures.

  27. I love the idea of the board on the wall as a deadman. I've used a deadman that goes from floor to ceiling, which you would need for a section that was not near a wall. There are adjustable ones that you can get, but a 2×4 with a cross piece cut for the job you are doing can usually be good enough. Just don't cut it too short.

    I've had a rotozip for years that i love, but I didn't know they had the dust vault. Nice addition.

  28. I measure the distance from the bit to the outside of the rotozip then draw a square that much larger than the hole that I want to cut. This allows me to use the outside edge of the rotozip as the cutting guide.

  29. I will be using the roto zip to cut out a hole for both the fan and the light fixture when I install a new ceiling in my bathroom. We have a plaster ceiling right now that's chipping old lead paint and with a brand new baby this is quite dangerous and needs to be addressed immediately. I think it will be easier and much safer to hang a new ceiling rather than to spackle and paint over the existing one. Thanks for the tip on using the 2 by 4. I'm new to the home improvement world and haven't built up my superwoman arm strength yet!

  30. good job …

    for a truly clean cut, you can also use large sheets of tracing paper (or newspaper etc, which is cheaper than tracing paper) to precisely mark out where certain items such as the joists or ventilators and electric outlets are and then transfer those markings onto the drywall or sheets of plywood etc …

    btw, i don't need the rotozip right now, but don't mind having one if given for free! 😉

  31. We have an older home that needs to be slightly renovated in the kitchen and bathrooms and unfortunately most of the work is overhead. I can see where this will make the falling dust much better to deal with and save my old lungs. It also seems easy to install and remove. Nice tool and great video.

  32. Good job! I hope to wall up and finish my basement with the mold proof sheetrock. Thanks for the tips and contest entry.

  33. Thanks for this detailed video, excellent points about 2×4 and taking several measurements along the sheet. I would add, as some others also mentioned, that strategically placing a deadman against a wall within your arm's reach, combined with the 2×2 support, would ultimately free your hands, so you could review the position of the sheet, adjust it if necessary and take all your time with the screws with no need to pre-drill them. Although for a small project like this, a 2×4 support is enough.

    Another potential issue is that the beams in old homes may not be level (e.g. some are lower than others or crooked), so you might want to use a level or a string (or both) to try to make your ceiling if not necessarily level but at least look straight (no need to go crazy with that though; I'd say +/- 1/4" would probably not be noticeable). One product I found useful to address this is called drywall shims (sold online by HD) which is basically long strips of 1/16" cardboard which could be stapled, taped, screwed or glued to the beams/studs in layers where needed to make them level with the others.

    Finally, there was a helpful old school method video here on youtube to help you find the center of your ceiling fixture (or any spot on the ceiling for that matter). Just hang a plumb bob (or, say, a nut on a string if you don't have one) from that spot and mark it on the floor. After hanging the drywall, simply find that spot on the ceiling by aligning your plumb bob with the mark on the floor. That's it – no measurements needed!

    And yes, I would certainly use a rotozip as I am less than halfway through a big soundproofing project in my house. I mean completely removing sheetrock from a number of walls and ceilings, installing insulation, sound clips, resilient channels, two layers of drywall with green glue, acoustic caulking, etc. I hope to finish before my wife kicks me out of the house since it's already been taking way longer than expected 🙁

  34. A RotoZip would be very helpful. I have to put up Sheetrock on walls & ceilings of a basement room. It had plywood piecemeal sections on the ceiling (wrong) and particle board on the walls (wrong). A real fire hazard. I have multiple electrical receptacles, light boxes & HVAC register duct openings to cut by Zip.

  35. Sorry, but I did not get why you cut the rotozip hole in the drywall "inside" the fan?
    You implied the fan stuck out past flush, so the hole had to be bigger than the fan, slightly.
    You also would have avoided any dangerous wires, if you had run the rotozip "outside" the fan housing.
    While it may be ok to start inside, in to find the fan housing, after that I would have moved over to the outside to go the rest of the way around.

    I would also never leave any old plaster or lath. Not only does it waste space and add weight, but it greatly gets in the way of any changes you might want to do later, such as additional lighting, etc. It can also crumble and cause the whole drywall piece to become loose and cause cracks. I would also never use anything thicker than .5" unless I need a firewall. The weight is just too great. It all adds up, and you don't want any more weight than necessary. The 1" was to span gaps, and that is just not a good idea. Drywall is not good for spanning gaps. Better to put up a thin sheet of wafer board than to try to do it with thick drywall.

  36. I am remodeling a home and need tools for hanging drywall on the walls. This tool looks so handy for cutting out areas where there are window's . This is my main use for this tool.Thank you for showing your video's.  I am always looking for tool to make the jobs better. If I should happen to win the Roto Zip,   you can reach me at: [email protected] you again. Lori

  37. Love using a sharp utility knife and framing square to score straight lines. I have bathroom remodel and basement finishing projects pending that a Rotozip with dust collection would be absolutely much appreciated for! Lots of exhaust fan and recessed light fixture openings to cut out.

  38. Great Job on the video. Explained very well how to use a rotozip. I could use a rotozip as my wife and I are DIY'ers and we are building a house. It is approximately 1200 sq. ft. 1 1/2 bath, 2 bedrooms so we will be doing a lot of sheet rock. A lot of work ahead.. LOL….. Take care and keep up the great work on the videos.

  39. Truly helpful video. Very well done. I would love the Rotozip and I would use it in getting my house ready to sell. Thank for the tips.

  40. I really love your videos and give a way's, hopefully I'm not too late? I've been using a roto zip that belongs to my friend and it has saved me a ton of time in my basement project.

  41. Have an old house with plaster walls and ceilings. As I have the money, I am going to attempt to replace the walls and ceilings room by room with drywall. I will be working alone and dont have many tools to use so your videos are really coming in handy. Also it would be very handy and useful to have a rotozip to cut out the outlets and lights. I if have the extra money I will go buy one.

  42. I am about to finish my 1200 foot attic space myself….framing, wiring, plumbing, drywall, painting, and finishing myself. I have used roto in the past and loved it but I no longer have mine. It was amazing at cutting out the many holes I needed for lights, sockets, and switches. I also became very precise with it to cut wood on an angle. Scary but it worked. Great video….thanks.

  43. Dude, I have to say I really like your vids. I like that you get to the point and clearly explain your thought process. Overall great presentation. Keep them coming, thanks.

  44. I have never seen or used a roto-zip, I don't even know if they are available in my country. We would tend to use a multi-tool. A roto -zip would be very handy for the many projects I have, i.e doing cut outs for plumbling, power outlets, light sockets etc…

  45. love the rotozip. I install computer cables and this is great for cutting perfect holes for the wiring boxes . . the cordless one is a better tool for that kind of work.

  46. cutting out ceiling light and duct vent with rotozip always much easier than by hand, but the dust, make you want do it by hand, with this new attachment, I will revisit using my rotozip


  48. I guess I have to stay up to date, I wish I knew about the dust collection, will this fit a 10 yr old RZ? I really liked the 2×4 for support

  49. the 2×4 was a great idea, man. I've used and had a rotozip , I found it to be completely worthless! Its junk…. I'd rather have a small router.

  50. I had to laugh when he said he was not mechanically inclined. Compared to most people I have known, he is a mechanical genius!

  51. Great video, like to see real repair and when a mistake happens, I sure do make some
    I'm just starting my master bath, I know i could put that rotozip saw to good use. At this point I have the room to the studs and rafters, starting from scratch

  52. I sure can use the rotozip.  I (female) will attempt to replace the ceiling in my bathroom (a few black spots).  This step-by-step is very useful for me. Thank you

  53. Finishing my Basement totally by YouTube, great for those who need the help and im now getting ready to drywall my bathroom.

  54. You make it look easy. I’m 69 female and put new support in ceiling and have 3 lights and 1 vent fan and 1 air conditioning vent. Roto zip would help

  55. This video was very good and helpful I'm planning on redoing my bathroom and installing a new ceiling fan light so that tool would be very helpful

  56. I am remodeling a house and sure could use the rotozip for this project. It sure would make the job alot easier.

  57. im 25 just started watching your video's I learned some new today. I hang sheetrock on metal and wood i could use a roto rzip the one I have is giving up on me

  58. this is the first time I am putting up a drywall ceiling, for a hard working nurse and I don't have the funds to buy these tools needed for the job, I am confident Brooklyn NYC, like I said for a hard working nurse who just doesn't have it like that, to even pay me, so in order for me to finish this volunteer work, plz help in any way possible. keep up the magical work which allows me to help other unfortunate individuals, thank u very much for all. your time and consideration.

  59. Glad I found your video… the 2×4 mount to frame !!! Genius Great tips – Always looking for ideas to do it right without killing myself… but even when you had a couple of oops it wasn't that bad. Rotor zip (not sure if I've spelled it correct) is a must for me whether I win one or not I'm definitely getting one. As I am in the process of remodeling my entire 2nd bathroom and put in 4 LED recessed lights and 1 brand new Bluetooth enabled speaker/exhaust fan topside, On the side walls have installed new switches and outlets in new locations… short.. I have a bare walls that will need new drywall all the way around (yes and backer board in the new shower area). Thus this tool will come in handy. Great job again for the tips

  60. Wow that ceiling was nasty. Mine was in similar shape, and I decided to rip it out. The joists are fine but they're 24" apart and code requires drywall screws every 12" on ceilings. My two options are install a layer of furring strips perpendicular to the joists but I'm thinking the better option is hang 2x4s parallel to the joists. Any thoughts?

  61. We are redoing our bathroom due to mold/mildew issue. We want to make sure we do our best to avoid this from happening again. In your opinion, is the regular drywall we have for our ceiling appropriate or is there a better material we should use? We also have 5/8” regular drywall on the walls. Will this be a problem tiling in the shower with 1/2” board or be a problem with moisture?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *