So in this video I’m going to show you how
to hang a drywall ceiling. We’re going to do it over this plaster,
and I’m going to show you how to do that such that we get the screws in all the joists
or all the framing, and we don’t have any critical errors. And plus, in the end I am going to have a
pretty cool, pretty sweet power tool giveaway for you. So don’t miss out on that. You’re going to learn a lot of great tips
in terms of how to hang drywall today, but we’re also going to share a really special
tool that can make cutting out holes in the ceiling, like for this fan here, super easy. So let’s jump into the video. So in this video I’m going to show you how
to hang a drywall ceiling. We’re going to do it over this plaster, and I’m going to
show you how to do that such that we get the screws in all the joists or all the framing,
and we don’t have any critical errors. And plus, in the end I am going to have a pretty
cool, pretty sweet power tool giveaway for you. So don’t miss out on that. You’re
going to learn a lot of great tips in terms of how to hang drywall today, but we’re
also going to share a really special tool that can make cutting out holes in the ceiling,
like for this fan here, super easy. So let’s jump into the video.
This purple board is ½” thick. The reason why I’m using it is because we’re keeping
the plaster on the ceiling. So what I’m going to do is mark off –fortunately, I
opened up the ceiling—I’m going to mark off where the joists are. So here’s one
for example. They’re just to the right of this framing right here that’s in the bathtub.
So I know that like if I mark this off here, here, and here, that’s where I’m going
to put my screws for the drywall. All right, so the first thing I’m going
to do is get an exact measurement between this framing member and this wall. Actually,
it’s about 52 ¾”. So it’s 52 ¾” here, we’re going to go out about 4’ because
what we’re going to do is cut—the drywall piece that I have is a 4’ x 8’ piece of
drywall. I’m just going to cut it to about what I said, 52 ¾”. I’m going to take
¼” off of that, so I’m going to make it 52 ½” because when we get to here, we’re
going to put Schluter KERDI Board up—that’s going to be ½”, so it’ll cover that gap.
Over here I’m going to be mounting ½” purple board on that wall so it’ll cover
the little gap on that side. So I’m not really worried about shaving a ¼” off the
ceiling drywall we’re going to mount over the plaster.
One additional tip is make sure you go out the 4’, in this case because it’s 8’
x 4’ sheet. I’m going to go out 4’. I’m going to measure what the width is right
about here because if it’s not 52 ¾” and it’s something else, I need to adjust
for my cut. You know, what? Actually, we’re going to
go out about 47” because if I go out about 48” there won’t be enough room for the
other piece of drywall to meet up with this joist. So I’m going to go out about 47”.
And at that 47”-mark—it’s about 52 5/8”. So it’s not 52 ¾” here, so I need to
kind of make a tapered cut. But that’s fine; it’s not hardwood drywall.
So the other thing I’m going to do is mark the center of the joist that’s up in the
ceiling because what we’re going to do is split the difference. And then we’re going
to come out about half the width of that joist for my drywall so I can butt up the other
piece of drywall in the center of that joist. I’m going to mark the location of that on
the framing here. After a bit more measurement, what I found
was the total width of this piece is going to be 45 5/8”. Next step is to measure out
about 52 3/8”, like I said. And this will be 52 ½” because remember I’m taking
out a little bit off each stud. And I’m just going to cut this with a utility knife.
This sheet of drywall does have a tapered edge right here. We’re going to butt this
up against the doorway wall so that the other tapered edge is going to center up the ceiling,
and I’ll be able to make a pretty good taping job. It’s always nice to have two tapered
edges meet up so that when you go to tape, your taping is made a lot easier by that tapered
edge, and you’ll be able to fill it in and not to have to use too much joint compound.
Now since I’m not the most mechanically inclined person, I’d label the drywall with
the “door” on this side and “window” on this side. The reason why I did that is
so when I hoist it above my head, I will have the orientation correct. The other thing is
I labeled 14” in from the edge—this is where the first joist is located. And then
another 30 ¼” in from the edge—that’s where the second joist is located. So I’m
going to pre-drill some screws into these locations so that when I do put this above
my head, I can quickly screw it into the joist. Two additional tips. Number one, I’m using
2” coarse-threaded drywall screws. Always use coarse-threaded drywall screws for wood
framing; fine-threaded drywall screws for metal framing. So 2” because my plaster
is about ¼”, then the lathe is about ¼”, and then the new drywall is going to be ½”.
So that takes up a full inch. I want this screw to go 1” into the joist. So that’s
why the 2” screws. And then you should always be using a dimple
bit when embedding your drywall screws into the drywall. This makes a perfect dimple or
embeds the drywall screw perfectly into the paper, and it won’t tear out the paper.
There’s a train going through the neighborhood, whoo!
Now to make life a little bit easier on myself—I’m not feeling particularly strong this morning
because I’ve been up since 4am—I’m going to screw in the piece of 2’ x 4’ right
above the door here. That way, I can slide this end of the drywall up over this 2’
x 4’; it’ll hold in place. That will give me enough time to screw in the drywall screws
on this edge and then come over here. So this will hold the drywall for me while I screw
in some of the screws. All right. What’s nice about this 2’ x
4’ is it takes a lot of the weight off of me and gives me time to screw these drywall
screws into the joist. So that wasn’t too bad. That’s just up there enough such that
it gives me time to go get the screws, go get my dimple bit, and I can put all the screws
into the drywall paper such that it doesn’t tear the paper.
There’s where I wrote “window” on the drywall, so I got that right. Yey!
Here’s the dimple bit. You need a magnetic bit holder for your impact driver if you’re
going to be using one of these. Fortunately, there are Xs to mark the position
of the joist on the drywall. So you can kind of eye out where that X is on here and where
your screws are, and you can use that X as a reference to drive your additional screws.
Or you can snap a chalk line across this drywall. Now I want to share something with you. Is
this job absolutely perfect? No. I mean I broke some of the drywall right here; this
is the only place I broke it. And then some of my screws aren’t exactly flush. Now the
screws that aren’t flush are the ones that are in this tapered edge. So what I’m going
to do is obviously tape over it with paper tape and then fill that in with joint compound,
and you’ll never know that those screws aren’t exactly flush with the drywall. But
I wanted to let you know, like, it’s not perfect. So anyhow, just wanted to get that
off my chest. So basically I’m going to cut a piece of
drywall very much like I did for this first section. I’m going to put it over top of
this section of the ceiling in the bathroom. Now one last thing before I mount the second
piece of drywall. You need to get the center dimension for this fan and mark it somewhere.
So more about 7—doesn’t have to be perfect—about 7” over. All right, so that’s about right
here. By 19 ½”. So 7” x 19 ½”. The reason why you want to get the center dimension
of the fan is so you can poke a hole through that and run it over to the side with a RotoZip
and then cut out this square perfectly. So you have a perfect square revealing your bathroom
fan and your ceiling. I’m actually going to put the drywall up;
I’m not going to put screws on this edge. I’m only going to put them in about 16”.
I’m going to let this hang down a little bit, then I’m going to cut out the piece
for the fan. Okay. When placing your drywall screws through the
ceiling and into the joist, you want them to be no more than 10” to 12” apart along
the joist. Like I said, I’m always writing my dimensions
down on scrap something something. So here we go. This last piece is 4 ¾” on one end.
So this is right here on that end. This 5 5/8” is on this end; so it’s right here.
And then the total length is this 52 number right there. But what I’m doing is, again,
I’m subtracting ¼” from all these dimensions just to ensure that this little piece actually
fits. One thing here I wanted to share with you.
This is the tapered edge. This is my 4 ½” on this side; that is my 5 3/8” on this
side. I want the tapered edge to butt up against the other tapered edge on the ceiling, so
that when I go to tape my pieces of drywall, it’s so much easier to blend in a few pieces
and make them look like one. Now I have to measure over for where the fan
is. Unfortunately, I did write the dimension on this piece of lumber here. This is definitely
where the center is, or close to it. Now what we’re going to do is use a RotoZip to cut
out a perfect square opening for where that fan is.
And by the way, we actually have another video showing you how to do this, and you can watch
it right there. But this video is a little bit different because the fan set up on the
inside is a bit trickier—there’s actually wires and stuff hanging down. So I have to
be a bit careful when I cut this out with a RotoZip.
In one of our last videos where we hung drywall, Steve did use a RotoZip, and it did not have
the dustless technology. Now I want to tell you RotoZip did reach out to us after watching
that video and asked us to do a sponsored video, which was a no-brainer because we already
use RotoZip. And what they did was they sent out the RotoSaw+ with Dust Vault, and that’s
what I’m going to be using today. Now if you’ve watched any of my videos in
the past, you know that safety is one of my primary concerns. Sometimes you forget on
the job to wear a dust mask or wear goggles, etc. So if the tools are doing some of that
safety work for you, that’s a good thing. So I just assembled the Dust Vault onto the
RotoZip, and I’m going to show you how I did that. Very straightforward after you do
it the first time. There’s a symbol on the RotoZip, and there’s
a symbol on the coupler. You want to align these two symbols up like so and then clamp
it tight. Install the collet that you need for the specific bit that you’ll be using.
This is a collet for an 1/8” bit. I’m just going to slide it into the RotoZip. Press
the locking button, and spin the fan in place. You’re supposed to use this little tool
here, but I find that it’s just easier to spin it in place. Now if you’re more comfortable
using the tool, you can spin it like this. But you don’t want to fully tighten it.
You want to leave it a little bit loose. So this is the dust vault; they also call this
the fan housing. There’s a hole on this side, and there’s a hole on this side. You
just line those two up. And there’s a thumb screw that you use to lock it in place. Then
you push your bit in the whole way as far as it’ll go, and then you can bring it out
by a maximum of 1 ½”or 1 ¾”. So in this case, I’m going to bring it out by about
¾”. I’m going to press this button again on the bottom right here. You have to use
the little wrench here to tighten this down. That’s all there is to it. It’s pretty
simple to install. And this is the dust vault; this is what’s going to catch all the dust
in the drywall. Now there is sensitive wiring up in this bathroom
fan, and that’s why I’m running the RotoZip across the span of the fan so that I don’t
hit the wiring. I know it’s hard for me to explain this, but I did have a strategy.
Now what you can do is you can run the RotoZip counter-clockwise like I’m doing here and
cut out a little sliver of the drywall to make sure that you’re up inside the fan.
And it’s just a nice thing that you can do to double check that you’re actually
cutting out the drywall that you need to cut out. And then you can use the RotoZip along
the inside edge of the fan and cut along it. Allow it to guide you along that inside metal
edge. It’ll cut out a perfect square, or rectangle in this case. Now I am mechanically
challenged, and I meant to do this counter-clockwise, but I did it clockwise. I actually had a little
bit of a mistake up there in the corner, but not a problem.
Well there you go. That is how you hang a drywall ceiling. I hope that you like today’s
video. Now for the surprise. Down in the comments we’re going to be giving away a RotoZip
with the Dust Vault. So number one, tell me why you need the RotoZip. Number two, how
you’re going to use it—so what project you’re using it on. And number three, also
feel free to add your suggestions on drywall. So I’m sure I missed something on this video.
I’m not perfect, right? So if you have a drywall tip or suggestion, add it down in
the comments, and you’ll be randomly entered into the RotoZip giveaway, all right? So it’s
really that simple. And when you’re don adding your comment, you may want to head
back on over to HomeRepairTutor.com and sign up for our free newsletter because that way
you won’t miss out on our awesome giveaways—like today. And you’ll also learn about home
improvement via our tutorials which are written and in video format. All right?
So down in the comments I’ll read what you have to say about drywall tips and suggestions,
and you’ll be randomly entered into the RotoZip giveaway.
That’s it for today. Thanks so much for watching. I love our community. You’re awesome,
especially if you watch every week. So thank you so much. All right, we’ll see you soon.
Take care. Again fun times doing this with the light
here, camera there, ceiling here. I feel like I’m in the circus.