It’s a little bit cold in Pittsburgh today,
so our video is really appropriate. We’re going to show you how to heat a curbless shower.
So, specifically we’re going to show you how to heat a Schluter curbless shower using
DITRA-HEAT cables. We’re also going to give you tips on how to waterproof that entire
shower floor and start the tiling process. Here’s the deal: in our prior tutorials,
we showed you how to install DITRA-HEAT mat over top of our wood subfloor and next to
the Schluter KERDI line channel body and inside the curbless shower. So you can check out
those tutorials. We also have a video that shows you how to
pull the wiring through the box and how to install the heat cable over top of the DITRA-HEAT
mat outside the shower. Now, in today’s video, we’re going to
show you how to install the DITRA-HEAT cable inside the curbless shower.
The next step after running the heat cable in the main bathroom floor area was to apply
Schluter ALL-SET—this is their thinset mortar—over top of the seams, and waterproof those seams
using Schluter’s KERDI-BAND. Now, this is ultra-important outside of the curbless shower
area. And in particular, this is the seam right outside the curbless shower pan. So
we waterproof that using the KERDI-BAND, and you want to flatten that as much as possible.
The same thing goes up against your pipe that’s coming up out of the floor for the toilet.
You want to add KERDI-BAND over top of Schluter ALL-SET and water proof that, so that if there
is a leak, it won’t go down through the toilet pipe.
In our prior tutorial, we showed you how to embed the cold splice sub-flush with the DITRA-HEAT
mat. But here what we are doing is applying more ALL-SET over top of the cold splice and
then adding the Schluter KERDI-BANG over top of it. And what that’ll do is push down
the cold splice. And then we ran our floor sensor in a zigzag
pattern and put that in the center of the floor so that it can sense whether the floor
is going to be hot or cold. The rest of the Schluter ALL-SET was used over top of the
DITRA-HEAT studs to fill in those grooves and to prep the floor for tile.
This next part is critical. You want to keep the heat cable at least two inches away from
the channel body. And what we did here is we cut a groove out of the KERDI-BOARD so
that our heat cable could go over that groove and sit flush with the top of the KERDI-BOARD.
Now what we’re going to do is fill that groove in with thinset and then apply KERDI-BAND
over top of it. Make sure you follow your local electrical code when doing this.
Once the DITRA-HEAT cable was inside the curbless shower area, we followed Schluter’s handbook
for the DITRA-HEAT and made sure that the cable was at least four inches away from the
center of the drain for our channel body. That’s also a really important principle
to follow. We did a three-stud spacing inside the curbless
shower, and that worked out perfectly for our planning purposes.
We cut a two-inch piece of PVC to size so that it would fit in the rubber Fernco that
comes with the channel body. So we’re just tightening that PVC pipe to that Fernco and
applying ample amount of Schluter ALL-SET into the studs of the DITRA-HEAT mat. We’re
going to do that on both sides of the channel body. That way, when you dry fit this, you’ll
get a good idea of how the channel body is going to fit. And so we just dry fit this,
and then we both primed and added cement to our PVC both inside the coupling and on the
surface of that pipe. So we got our drain in place, then we applied thinset into that
groove that we cut out for the DITRA-HEAT cables and then smoothed out the KERDI-BAND
that’s on the channel body, both over the DITRA-HEAT and on the wall. So we’re just
smoothing out and applying thinset to the wall here, and then we’re making sure that
that KERDI-BAND is going to fit nice and tight to both the DITRA-HEAT mat and the wall. You
want to get that as smooth as possible so you don’t have any issues with the tile.
Once the channel body was set, so applied more ALL-SET to the main DITRA-HEAT mat that’s
in the curbless shower area. Filled all of that and then applied our big piece of KERDI
membrane over top f the heat cables and the shower pan. We just embedded that in place
using a grout float, making sure that we don’t have a ton of thinset between the shower pan
and the KERDI membrane. Now before we did that, we actually applied
thinset to the walls and added KERDI-BAND in the corners and over top all of the seams
that are inside the shower. So we actually did this before we added the KERDI membrane
over top of the curbless shower pan area. So again, you want two-inch minimum overlap
on your seams with your KERDI-BAND and smoothing out any of the thinset with a six-inch drywall
knife really helps out. The other thing that we did here is we applied thinset around our
rough-in valve and added the mixing valve seal. Now note: it is backwards, and the reason
why that’s the case is because of our Kohler valve. We had to set it backwards but only
because of that particular rough-in valve. Now, we added thinset over top of the pipe
that’s coming out of the wall for our shower head, and we added another seal to seal off
that area. The next step was to apply thinset to both
the KERDI-BOARD and the KERDI membrane over top of the curbless shower, then embed the
KERDI-BAND into that. So remember to keep the two-inch overlap between the KERDI-BAND
and any change of plane. Super important per the Schluter handbook. So the plumbing wall
also got this. And we trimmed, in this case, the KERDI-BAND to size using scissors because
it’s just so much better than the utility knife whenever you’re trying to trim-fit
it against that channel body. So all three walls got the KERDI-BAND. Then for the two
inside corners, we applied thinset to the walls and the KERDI over the curbless shower
pan and embedded the inside corners to make sure that this complete curbless shower installation
was 100% waterproof. Tiling the shower pan began by doing a dry
layout to see how these hex tile would work, and we used the MiniPiuma to cut all of them.
This is a really great tool. As you can see, we went with a half-pattern at the wall, leaving
our expansion and contraction joint. A ¼” x ¼” square notch trowel was used for these
six-inch hex tiles. We wiped down the KERDI membrane with a damp sponge and then burned
thinset with the flat side of the trowel, and then added more thinset using the notched
side, again using directional troweling for optimum coverage. These tiles were back-buttered
to make sure that the bond was optimal between the tile and the KERDI membrane. We pulled
up one of the tiles to make sure that we got the coverage that we wanted. And as you can
see here, it was really consistent and good. Now, we spaced the tile such that the wall
tile would hide the gap. We also used these Tuscan seam clips for tile leveling. This
really helped out a lot with these hex tiles and helped the tile look great. You can see
that our pattern worked out wonderfully. We removed that grate and cleaned it off because
it’s never a good idea to have thinset in the grate or the channel body. And the nice
thing with this pattern and with the tileable grate, you can have a seamless transition
from the curbless shower into the main bathroom floor area, and we’re really happy with
this layout. It’s so cold that my eyes are watering.
Now, in the next video we’re going to give you tips on how to tile the shower walls inside
this Schluter curbless shower, so make sure you stay tuned for that. And remember, if
you want more detailed tips and tricks on how to remodel a bathroom, check out Bathroom
Repair Tutor. It’s awesome, and it’ll definitely help you out with your project.
Thanks for watching, and we’ll see you in the next tutorial.