How to Build a Walk-In Shower (Part 3 – Waterproofing KBRS ShowerSlope)


Hey, guys! Today I’m super excited because we’re
completing our three-part video series on how to build a walki-in shower using the KBRS
ShowerSlope. So if you haven’t watched out prior videos,
in video one we showed you how to choose the KBRS ShowerSlope for your project. Then in video two, which you can watch right
here, you can see us build the ShowerSlope, install the drain, shower pan, and put the
cement board in along with a shower niche; that’s an awesome video. Today, we’re going to show you how to completely
waterproof the shower pan, the curb, and the cement board along with the custom shower
niche. So a lot of really great tips in today’s
video. There’s two ways you can go about addressing
all the seams and the corners. One, you can the traditional cement board
tape with thinset; you would want to do that prior to doing the sealant, basically the
day before because you don’t want that thinset to completely dry before using this liquid
membrane. So that’s one option. And the other option is just to use the fabric
that comes with the KBRS system and use the waterproofing to seal all of those corners. I like this idea because I’m able to –now
that I have the whole system in – in the first part of the morning, I can go ahead
and immediately start waterproofing it so I can get tiling on this tomorrow. Cement board will require an extra day if
you use the cement board tape. Using the fabric that comes with the KBRS
system, I can get it all done today. So I would advise cutting the fabric in all
the areas prior to installing it. So just measuring out and cutting it all,
it’ll make it easier. So when you cut everything, you just have
to have overlaps of two inches on everything. Okay, then for the corners I’ll just cut
out like eight-inch pieces because we’re just going to fold these and waterproof them
in. So you kind of just fold one in, but it’s
easier once you start taping them in. But just make little squares for the corners. Oka, and then we got two seams on the main
wall here. One seam for this edge. And then we got around the niche. Okay, so I would just start with the corners. So you got to play around with it, but you’re
basically just trying to overlap a corner to make that corner work. This is the second corner that we’re applying
to the KBRS ShowerSlope system. As you can see, you just want that little
piece of fleece to be about like an eight-inch piece there, so it’ll fit nicely in the
corner. And then you can use a three-inch putty knife
to smooth out any of the overlap, like Steve is doing here. It does take a little bit of time to get used
to making these corners, but you really only have four, so it’s not that big of a deal. And you can also use the shower seal liquid
waterproofing membrane to help out with the smoothing out of the fleece. So once you do one and two, it’s actually
not that bad. But definitely take your time, like Steve
is doing here, to smooth out any creases in the fleece. Like we mentioned, it is very important to
do this because you don’t want to puncture the fleece whenever you’re applying thinset
mortar or whenever you’re setting the tile. And that’s also why you want to get it nice
and flat in the corner for the tile. It just takes a little bit of work to get
that into that corner, but you just want to make sure you don’t have any air pockets
behind it. And on your corner seams, you’ll be able
to overlap it by two inches. So this third corner is going in between the
curb and the cement board. Again, this is really important to smooth
out with that putty knife. And you can see how Steve folded over the
bottom portion of that corner, and that really helps out quite a bit whenever you’re making
these. And so, again, you just want to push it into
the curb, in this particular instance, and into the cement board with the knife. And then you want to smooth out the rest using
your paint brush. Applying the liquid waterproofing membrane
under and over top of the fleece helps out quite a bit whenever you’re smoothing it
out, and it makes a nice, flush surface to set your tile over. So as you can see here, it turned out great. And then this is the fourth and final corner. So again, you only have to do four of these. And you just fold over the bottom like so,
apply your liquid waterproofing membrane, embed it using the three-inch putty knife,
and you should be good to go. Now you’ll see here in a second that if
you do have any kind of – like right there, Steve cut that with a utility knife – if
you have any of the fleece kind of jutting out over top of the curb, you can just cut
it and then smooth it out using the liquid waterproofing membrane. But again, very important to smooth out any
of the air bubbles, so that when you set the tile and the thinset, you don’t cut that. So that’s why that’s important again;
I can’t overemphasize that. And then we applied a generous amount of the
liquid proofing membrane on the main wall here – at least a 3×3 section of that – and
then embedded the fleece like so. And you want the fleece to be evenly-spaced
on top of that first crease there, and you want to smooth it out using the same method
that you used for the corners. It doesn’t hurt to apply a generous amount
of the liquid waterproofing membrane here; we are going to apply two coats as we’ll
mention throughout the video and at the end. So you just really want to get embedded, but
again, you want a nice and generous amount of the liquid waterproofing membrane under
and over it. But you don’t want to have gobs of the liquid
waterproofing membrane; you want that to be nice and smooth. Again, what you’re thinking of here is waterproofing
all the creases. But again, also think forward to when you’re
going to be setting your tile. And that’s why you want everything to be
a relatively smooth surface. Anything that’s a little bit bigger than
an eighth of an inch could create a problem, but you shouldn’t get anywhere close to
that using the liquid waterproofing membrane because it’s just a slightly thicker viscosity
than water. So you’ll see whenever you use it that it’s
very simple, it’s easy to apply with the paint brush, and it can be quick, like Steve
is doing here. So that’s our front shower wall that we’re
waterproofing. Pay particular attention to this wall because
that’s going to get saturated with water over time because it’s the closest one to
the showerhead. Same thing on your curb. Even though that the curb is waterproof right
now, you still want to bond this corner seam. Make sure to just kind of wrap that up on
top here. So I would just recommend making sure that
these corners stay tight. Because if you leave like any room behind
where there’s air behind it, that’s just going to be an area that’s going to be easy
to possibly penetrate when you’re tiling. So just try to make these corners tight so
that there’s no way that you can puncture the membrane with the tile. Or even if you’re troweling the thinset,
if there’s like a little bit of an air gap behind there, and if you hit that, you can
potentially break that liner and create an area where there can be a leak. So the tighter, the better. So I’m actually going to do a little corner
piece here. The other side, I was able to get it up around
that. I just want to make sure that this gets sealed. So now we’re moving onto the cement board
walls and applying, again, at least a 3×4 or a 4×4 stretch of liquid waterproofing membrane
in that corner and embedding the fleece. That way, if you have that much waterproofing
membrane in the corner, you’ll definitely be able to embed the fleece, like Steve is
doing here using his hand and the paintbrush and the three-inch putty knife. So again, just the main thing to remember
when you’re doing this is to get plenty of liquid waterproofing membrane on the cement
board such that the fleece will totally embed into it. And then smooth out the fleece so you don’t
have any air pockets directly in the corner that you could puncture with your trowel or
with the tile. So you only have, in this case, two vertical
walls that we need to do that. And it didn’t take very much time to embed
that fleece. And keep in mind, if you’re using another
system, for example if you’re using another system that requires something in the corner,
you’re going to have to do the exact same thing. So in this case, we have our horizontal seam
that we’re putting above where our digital mixing valve is going to go. And so you definitely want to make sure that
that is nice and waterproof because, again, that’s on the plumbing wall. It’s directly above the showerhead and also
over our port there for our hand-held. So again, this is the opposite wall; doing
the exact same thing. And then this is the main shower wall, where
we have that one seam above the niche and the one seam below the niche, and we’re
simply applying our fleece over top of that. So again, you’ll see Steve just kind of
repeat the same process over. And you want the two-inch overlap in the corner
there where your vertical fleece was. So again, remember, two-inch overlap with
all the sections of the fleece. That’s super duper important. So we’re just basically putting this one
right up against the edge. You could cut it and wrap it if you want,
but just sealing to the edge of that niche is enough to make sure that’s sealed. As you can see, we’re applying the vertical
sections of the fleece that go around the shower niche; very easy to do here. You just need to butt the fleece up to the
KBRS shower niche because the niche itself is waterproof. So you can smooth that out with the paintbrush
and the putty knife. And then we’re applying another layer of
liquid waterproofing membrane for the horizontal pieces of fleece. And there you go. That’s how you waterproof around the KBRS
shower niche. Super easy to do in this particular shower. I’ll just go over the screws on your niche,
too. I’m going to seal, put some membrane down
along this metal corner bead because through this thinset layer of the tile, it could potentially
get some water that would eventually rust out this corner bead. So we’ll put some mesh, a mesh strip down
this. Just make sure we have enough down this. Cover this joint between the drywall. And we’ll have a lot of room on the drywall
side. I try to avoid getting this on my painted
wall here, but I might have to do a little bit of additional painting later. So this last section here that Steve is applying
the liquid waterproofing membrane, we always get the question: “How do you waterproof
between the drywall and cement board?” Well, this is the answer. You just waterproof over top both boards and
then embed the fleece. So then rolling these would probably be fine,
but I would just dab all the screw holes with this to really get it in there because you
might have a hard time getting this into the screw holes with a roller. So I’m just going to apply a generous amount
on each hole. I’m just leaving this half inch away from
my ceiling because I don’t want to have to repaint my whole ceiling, and there’s
not going to be any water really getting that high anyway. And if there is, you probably should just
go ahead and tile the ceiling as well. Notice here that Steve is mostly applying
the liquid waterproofing membrane with the roller in a vertical motion. And we’ll explain this a little bit later
in the video, but the reason why you want to do that is we’re going to go over top
this a second time, and we’re going to apply the liquid waterproofing membrane horizontally. And that really just ensures that you’re
getting the waterproofing membrane in all the pores of the cement board, and you’re
adhering it such that you’ll get the appropriate thickness of waterproofing membrane. But as you can see here, you just use a paintbrush
to paint the membrane on around the showerhead and anything else. And then we’re applying it over top of the
shower pan. So again, it’s super important to realize
that you have to waterproof the shower pan with the liquid waterproofing membrane. Be generous with it because the shower pan
itself is going to get saturated with water. And just cut around the entire drain, too. Just try not to get it into the thread, that’s
all. Okay, so about thirty to fifty minutes this
will dry. Actually, we’ll go ahead and do this front
of this curb that we cut down. About a half hour forty-five minutes we can
go ahead and put a second coat on. Okay, so we’re going to go ahead and do
our second coat. I actually waited until the next day; ran
out of time to wait for this to dry. So basically just cover it again with the
roller and the brush. Brush all your corners and then just roll
the whole thing for a second coat. That’ll ensure that that thickness of membrane
is the specs to the waterproofing; there has to be a certain amount of thickness to be
really keeping this waterproof, and doing two coats will do that. You go ahead and do the brushing in first
and paint the wall. It’s not a bad idea to roll this the other
way, the opposite way that you rolled it first. It’s not a requirement, but it kind of ensures
that you have a good, thorough application of this. And I think just going the opposite direction
makes sense to just ensure that you get this membrane completely spread. So here you go, just a quick overview of the
ShowerSlope system and what it looks like when it’s completely waterproofed using
the liquid waterproofing membrane. Twelve hours after you apply the second coat
of the KBRS sealant, you want to go ahead and flood test this. So you can do this within twelve hours afterwards. I recommend filling it up to as much as you
can to the curb. Let this sit there. I honestly normally leave it overnight, take
it out the next morning. If there is a leak and then obviously if you
drop water level, that’ll dictate whether there’s some kind of leak. And in that case, I would probably just add
another layer of waterproofing sealant over everything and flood test again. Hopefully, that will address it. But as long as you do two coats, you’re
not going to have a problem with it leaking. But it’s always good to do a flood test
just to double-check yourself. So
the night before, I would go ahead and put some thinset in this drop of the KBRS pan. The main reason is it’s going to be more
difficult if you try to do the whole shower floor and fill this all with thinset the day
that you set the tile. Chances are, if you had a smaller tile – this
is like a 2×2 hexagon tile – but if you had anything smaller than that, the chances
of this thinset kind of setting down in your tile, dipping down next to the drain is pretty
likely. So I would say the night before, fill this
with some thinset or 4-to-1 sand mix. Four-to-one sand mix will probably be the
better choice; it’ll be easier just to pack it around here. But I know a lot of you just probably just
have thinset; you’re not going to buy a whole bag of something just to fill this. So first thing you want to do is try to figure
out your tile height with the drain. And if you go even with it by the time you
put your thinset underneath of this, it’ll be right at the right height that you want
it. So just try to go flush with your tile because
by the time you put the thinset on the floor, it’ll raise it up slightly where you want
it to be. So right there, we’re about even. Let’s do this. Yeah, that looks pretty good. So then I would just put a square on the back
wall to make sure your drain stays square with everything. That looks pretty good there. I would mix some of your thinset pretty thick,
too; thicker than what you lay tile, just so you can pack it. I’m just using a six-inch knife to do that,
too. But you just want to just try to really make
sure that thinset goes all the way around that drain, holding it in place. I’m just going to use this to… So and if you were in a rush and you really
need to get this shower floor done, you can use a fast-setting thinset. And that would like be ready to tile in thirty
minutes or something like that. So just keep that in mind. But if you do it the night before, it’s
just going to make things easier for you for tiling next day. The ShowerSlope kit is one of the best options
for building a custom walk-in shower because: number one, it’s affordable; and number
two, now that you’ve seen our videos, you can definitely do it yourself, and you can
install that within a day or two. So we’re going to put a link to this ShowerSlope
kit down in the description here of this YouTube video; you can check that out for yourself. Remember, we do have the other videos that
you can watch, and they will show you how to choose the ShowerSlope kit and also how
to build it. This third video obviously showed you how
to waterproof it. If you are remodeling a bathroom, and you
want help with that, grab our free guide right here; it’s awesome. And we’ll also have a ton of videos that’ll
walk you step-by-step through how to build a complete bathroom in ten days or less. It’s awesome. Again, get the guide right there. Thanks for watching our video series. We’ll see you in the next one, and we hope
you have a great day. Take care!

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