How to Hang Cabinets

How to Hang Cabinets

In the previous video we prepped the room
and marked guidelines for new kitchen cabinets. Next step is to hang the upper cabinets. They’re
easier to install before the base cabinets go in. Start by attaching a straight 1×4 ledger at
the 54-inch line. This will help support the cabinets while you’re hanging them.
Go ahead and remove the doors. It’s best to begin with a corner cabinet,
or from the left if you don’t have a corner unit. Using your outline on the wall, measure
the distance from the cabinet edge to the stud and transfer this to the cabinet. Remember
to account for the face frame. Drill holes through the cabinet backs at the
top, middle, and bottom. You’ll need to do this for each unit.
Set the cabinet in place and drive the mounting screws into the wall–just enough to hold
it, you’ll tighten them later. Check that it’s level and plumb, and shim behind if
needed. Onto cabinet #2. Set it into position. Line up the faces so
they’re even at the bottom and across the front, and clamp them together. Drive screws
in the back just enough to hold the cabinet for now. Again, use shims in the back to make
it plumb. Keeping the faces even, use a countersink/taper bit to drill through the face frames and connect
the cabinets with screws. And that’s how all the cabinets will be installed.
If your wall is really bowed, it helps to glue shims over the stud lines where you’ll
secure the mounting screws. This will prevent the cabinet backs from bowing when you drive
in the screws. Continue installing the rest of the cabinets.
Keep checking that the faces and edges are even. When you get to the ends you might have a
space between the cabinet and the wall. No worries. Filler strips can fix that. Measure
the gap at the top and bottom. Mark and cut the strip.
For uneven walls, mark the piece using a compass to scribe a line following the contours of
the wall. And cut. It helps to cut at a 7- to 10-degree
bevel to help fit the piece against the wall. Check the width of the piece and cut the cabinet
side. Or use a plane for minor adjustments. Drill holes through the frame, and attach
with screws. Once you have all of the cabinets connected,
drive in the rear screws and remove the clamps. Remove the ledger boards, and touch up any
spots on the walls. If you’re doing moulding, attach it with
finish nails and hang the doors. Adjust the hinges following the manufacturer’s directions
to make them even. Looks good so far. Want more great ideas and how-to’s? Go to or just click to subscribe. Next up, installing the base cabinets.

40 thoughts on “How to Hang Cabinets

  1. Elaborate and easy to understand instructions. It is best to begin with corner cabinets -now this is an important tip at 2:04 for a newbie DIYer. looking forward to many more helpful tips and ideas.

  2. Gave me great ideas for installing under the cabinet lighting in my kitchen and possibly my hutch and curio cabinets.  Thank you so much, it's going to be way easier than I first thought it would be.

  3. Our cabinet above the stove is falling down because whoever installed them into the apt we moved into, didn't secure them properly.

  4. Hello. I have a question. I wanted to install an ordinary shoe cabinet on my bedroom wall. However since the cabinet has a very thin back, it would be difficult to attach it to the wall. Except from the back, the rest of the cabinet looks very strong, which is why I got it in the first place for shoes. Our walls are pretty dry and hard so I know it will be difficult to drill and I would probably need many screws to hold the cabinet.

    I was wondering if you could give me your opinion on whether and how I can install this cabinet safely withought fearing it will one day fall off the wall. Also I can give you the weight and or measurememnts of our cabinet if you want. And what size and length screws would i need to use for this?

    Thank you

  5. The quality of this video is great! Makes it look easy and is super encouraging for amateur DIYers. Thank you!

  6. How awesome. No blathering and suffering through personal stuff. Just get to the point. Thanks Lowes! This is perfect!

  7. How do you taper the shims at bowed walls to prevent the cabinet backs from bowing? Not explained, this confuses me.

  8. Great video. But 3" screws seem kind of excessive. Cabinet back is about 1/2" to 3/4" and the drywall is 3/8" to 1/2". That leaves at least 1 3/4" of screw into the stud. At most, almost 2". Seems a bit much. I would recommend 2.5" screws.

    Thanks for the nice video, either way.

  9. Amature at best, first of all you install base runs first then overheads, as base cupboards able the installer to use adjustable stands, especially doing corner overheads. Its easier and stronger to use white heads instead of counter sunk screw, as white heads have a bigger head , well not bore into your surface of board which weakens it and no need for capping. There are other materials and techniques shown throughout this video that myself would disagree with as it those not comply with industry or quality workmanship.

  10. @Lowe's Home Improvement my biggest suggestion and concern… Why are the videos you've produced as guides to using the products you sell not openly running at the store and recommended by the employees?!?!?!?!?!!?!

  11. Then tile right up to bottom of the cabinet. That way the screw fixings are just needed to stop it tipping, rather than having to support the full weight.

  12. That's cool how you installed it but you def need this toolkit to make it happen

  13. Thanks, I was looking for the average/typical floor height, 54 inches!… I'm hanging mine a little over 55" 🙂

  14. Wow, in just 2 minutes and 43 seconds, the amount of the information we take in from this video would be applied to at least a few hours or for me maybe a couple of days of preparation and work. You can hardly be more concise than that!

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