Do you have a tight bathroom, like this one
here? This is my daughter’s bathroom. It’s right off of her bedroom. It’s very tiny.
It only has a sink and a toilet in it, and the vanity was way too big for the space.
So we’re going to replace that vanity with a pedestal sink. And in this video, that’s
exactly what I’m going to show you how to do. I’m going to show you how to install
a pedestal sink and the faucet that goes along with it. So let’s jump into the video. I
think you’re going to like it because it’ll save you time, money, and a lot of aggravation.
Faucets can be really expensive, and I wanted to give you this hot tip: Recently I found
a great website called FaucetDepot.com. I’m a repeat customer after I found it because,
number one, you’re going to find the lowest prices for faucets over at FaucetDepot. They
have a knowledgeable staff. So if you have a question, you can always do that online
or you can give them a call. And secondly, they have a huge stock of different faucets
that you can choose from—all name brand faucets like Moen, Delta, Kohler, American
Standard; you name it. So check that out because that’s where I bought the faucet today that
I’m going to be installing on this pedestal sink.
The first thing you’re going to do with your pedestal sink is to do a mock-up. You
want to put it in the space where it’s going to go and see how it fits. This is the P-trap
right here. So you want the pedestal itself to fit right underneath that P-trap. As you
can see, there is a slot for that P-trap; there’s a cut out. You want to make sure
that the pedestal that you chose actually has a cut out that’s deep enough to accommodate
the P-trap pipe in your bathroom. The next step is to dry-fit the sink on top
of that pedestal. Oftentimes there’s a lip right underneath the sink, and you want the
pedestal to be flush with that lip. So I’m just going to scooch this forward.
With the pedestal in place and the sink flush with the back of the wall, you’re going
to mark the position of the holes in the sink on the wall. All you want to do is now double-check
to make sure that there is a stud here or here, or there’s wood blocking where these
hole positions are going to be. So you can knock with your finger and notice the difference
in the pitch. And likely, there is going to be a stud here and here or blocking here because
I know there is; I put it there. But you can also check with a stud finder, like the Franklin
Sensor. I love the Franklin Sensor, and as you can see, right where that hole is going
to be, there is a piece of wood blocking on the left side. If we run across, there’s
a piece of wood blocking on the right-hand side, too. The next step is to drill 1/8”
hole through the drywall and into the wood blocking with our drill.
So here’s our Delta faucet right here. This is the Trinsic, single-handle faucet. I like
single-handle faucets because there’s less moving parts than two-handled faucets. So
you get the faucet, the pop-up assembly, your escutcheon and washer, a tool for installing
the faucet, and this goes with the pop-up assembly, too.
There’s a little groove in the rubber gasket here. You want to place that so that it’s
flush with the escutcheon. What we’re going to do next is put the supply lines down through
the escutcheon and the rubber gasket like that. So I wanted to show you there’s a
little hole here. You want to slide the bolt that’s coming out from the faucet down into
that slot. Place the supply lines down through the center hole in the sink. And this is how
the faucet is going to look roughly. There’s a metal mounting bracket that you
slide over the metal stud here. Hold that in place like so. There’s a nut on this
tool that Delta gives you. So you want to drive that nut so that it’s flush with the
bracket. Now before you truly tighten this up as much as possible, you want to turn the
sink back around. Just make sure that the faucet is lined up the way that you want it
lined up. In this case, you want the faucet to be pointing straight down into the drain.
Then you can tighten it up and just pull the tool off. It’s as simple as that.
Just a side note here. Don’t throw away the tool that comes with your faucet. Keep
it because you’ll likely need it for down the road. So either put it in your toolbox
or leave it in the bathroom somewhere where you install the faucet.
At this point, you want to disassemble the pop-up assembly. And just note all the different
parts: you’ve got the drain; you’ve got the bras nut; brass washer; and the rubber
gasket. So take it all apart and set it aside. Note that this little plastic washer here
goes up like this, into the pop-up assembly. What I like to do is take it all apart and
put it down on the towel the way that it was assembled. Just makes it easier on yourself.
Make sure that the drain right here is super clean. You can wipe it off with a cloth. Because
this is where we’re going to adhere the pop-up assembly down into there. You’re
going to want to apply some silicone sealant to the underside of the flange. And I highly
recommend getting the best silicone sealant that you can find at the store.
Apply a generous bead of silicone to the bottom of the flange. Drop the flange down into the
sink like so. Take your rubber gasket. Place that over the flange, then your brass washer,
then your brass nut. At this point, you don’t have to over-tighten this brass nut. It just
has to be snug enough to keep this in place. Remember you want this plastic washer to go
up into the bottom of the flange like so. Then you can screw on or hand-tighten the
plastic tailpiece here. Make sure that this pivot piece faces the
back of the sink. So it has to face the wall. So you want to turn it like this until it
faces like that. Now you can tighten this brass nut up against the brass washer and
the gasket here. But don’t turn the pop-up; don’t turn this metal part. Make sure that
is staying nice and stationary while you tighten this nut. And you’re going to have to use
a pair of channel locks to do this. Now you can wipe off any of the excess sealant that
is on the sink. Remove the pivot nut here. There’s going
to be a little washer in here. You want to leave that there. You’re going to put the
horizontal rod in like so. But just as a side note, when we put the pop-up down, you can
make this removable by just having it rest on top of the horizontal rod, or you can shift
it and have the rod go inside the stopper like so, so that when you move it up and down,
it’s non-removal. So I’m going to make it non-removable. And what we’ll do is we’ll
slide this down into the drain assembly so that this hole lines up with this hole. Now
that this is lined up, we’re just going to slide this in. it’s going to go through
this hole and the hole that’s in the stopper. Remove the clip. Place the nut back onto where
it used to be. So you just want to hand-tighten this. That’s all you have to do. What I
like to do is test and see if it actually works. So we can like shift this around and
show you that, yes in fact, it does work. Now we’re just going to put this strap-on
here like that and place the clip onto the horizontal rod like so, so that the strap
doesn’t go anywhere. So here is the lift rod right here. We’re
just going to slide this down through the faucet body. And you want it to go down through
the holes in the strap. You may have to loosen this little bolt here. So what you’ll do
is loosen that. Put the rod down in there, and then tighten this bolt so that whenever
you lift up on the rod, it lifts up on the pop-up stopper. So it’s not tight enough.
So that’s why you need to tighten this down. You definitely want to make sure you do this
before you install the sink. All right, so there you go. This operates the pop-up stopper.
And like I said, you always want to test to make sure that it’s working properly.
Now you’re ready to put the sink back onto the pedestal. But I wanted to show you two
things that came with my pedestal sink that’ll help you out with the mounting. So my pedestal
sink came with a toggle bolt. The sink also came with these lag screws, which you can
place through the sink and into the studs or blocking that’s in the wall. So here’s
how you want to do it. You want to put the metal washer on first and then the rubber
washer because the rubber washer is going to go up against your sink. And it’s going
to protect your sink from being damaged by the lag screw and the metal washer. Oh, and
the other thing is you don’t want to over-tighten this.
Okay, so we’re going to test-fit the sink on top of the pedestal. What I’m looking
for here is to make sure that the drain assembly on the sink goes down into the P-trap. If
it doesn’t go down into the P-trap the entire way, so like 1” or 1 ½”, we’re going
to have to add on an extension piece to the drain assembly that’s on the sink. So let’s
test and see how this goes. Okay, as I suspected, it’s nowhere close.
So I’m going to show you how to install an extension pipe onto the sink.
So this tailpiece isn’t long enough to meet up with the P-trap. That’s why we need an
extension tube like this. This is a 12” extension tube. And what we’re going to
do is unscrew the nut. There’s going to be a little washer inside there. And the tapered
end of this washer goes down into the extension tube. Slide the nut onto the tailpiece. Slide
the little washer onto the tailpiece as well. Then we’re going to slide the extension
tube as far up as possible and move the little plastic washer down into it because that is
going to create a water-tight seal when I tighten this nut like so. And you only have
to hand-tighten it. We have the sink back on the pedestal. I’m
going to mark the position of this extension tube so that it goes down about 1” into
the P-trap. So I’m going to make a little mark on that extension tube so that I know
that when I cut it, it’ll be down 1” in the P-trap. It’s hard to get a camera back
there, as you can see. So as you can see here, I made the mark on
the extension tube where it meets up down in the P-trap. So right here, this is the
bottom of the P-trap. This is about, I don’t know, 1 ½”, maybe 2” down into the P-trap.
So I want to cut this extension tube off right here. I’m going to be using the Ridgid tube
cutter, and it’s really sweet because you can use it on 1 ¼” pipes or 1 ½” pipes;
it says it right here. This is 1 ¼”; this is 1 ½”; and all you have to do is press
down on this trigger and slide it onto the pipe. And then there’s a little picture
window right there. And all you have to do is turn or rotate the tube cutter like so.
Now I would suggest that you hold onto the actual body of the extension tube that’s
on the faucet. So go ahead and hold onto that. Actually, hold onto both, and just turn the
tube cutter until you cut the pipe. Any kind of curlicues like this you want to smooth
out with sand paper or even emery cloth. So here we have a piece of emery cloth. Just
run it on the inside; run it on the outside. Smooth out these edges so that you get a nice,
clean pipe. What you’ll do next is slide your slip nut
on so that the threads are facing this way. Then your plastic washer, which will then
go down into the P-trap. Slide this up about 2” or so, okay, because this is going to
go down into the P-trap. You always want the tapered edges to be facing that way because
this is going to create a nice, tight seal with that P-trap pipe.
I wanted to show you the basic set up for the pipes in the wall. You’ve got your shut
off valves; this is the hot water, and this is the cold water. I covered them with painter’s
tape so that any drywall or any kind of dust doesn’t get in there when I’m doing work
in the bathroom. This is your goose neck. It goes into the wall, it connects up with
the wall pipe. And I wanted to show you that this section right here, it’s super important
that you get this nice and tight. There should be a washer, so there is a washer right here,
this white washer or clear washer. That has to go into the wall like so. Then you want
your nut to be nice and flush with these threads—I can probably clean these threads a little
bit better. But you want that nut to be nice and flush. Now your goose neck will move a
little bit, all right? So you have your escutcheon cover plate. This
is too big for this pipe, but for now, it’ll do. So you have your goose neck. You have
a nut here. Then what will happen is you connect your P-trap to the goose neck like so. You
want to slide the nut down over this so that these two pipes are nice and tight and flush.
The extension tube that we have on our sink goes down into this part of the P-trap. And
I want that extension tube to go down as far as possible so that we have a nice, clean
connection. And the washer that’s on the extension tube will go down into this part
of the P-trap. All right, this last time, what we’re going
to do is look down into the P-trap and try to line up the extension tube with it. All
right, I think I have the pipe in there. It just makes things a little bit easier, but
of course, you can just come down here and do that.
Okay, with all your pipes put together—the P-trap is on the extension tube; the P-trap
is attached to the goose neck (that’s the pipe that’s going into the wall); you’ve
made sure that all those connections are nice and tight—what you can do is grab the sink,
grab the pedestal, and push this while unit up against the wall so that the sink holes
line up with the holes that you drilled into the wall. Now what we can do is attach the
sink to the wall either with the lag screws or the toggle bolts. In this case, I’m going
to be using the lag screws to do that. Okay, now we’re going to connect the water
lines. As you can see here, there’s a red connection here that indicates “hot.”
Now these water supply lines are already connected to the faucet. If your faucet doesn’t have
water supply lines, I recommend using steel-braided supply lines. Now I’m going to take this
tape off of here. And what we’re going to do is we’re going to feed this supply line
down in there, okay? Now if it’s too long, sometimes you can cut these. But in this case,
that’s not what we’re going to do. We’re actually going to bend them. We’re going
to loop them like so, all right? So you can loop these according to the directions. This
isn’t me saying this; it’s the directions. We’re going to loop it. We’re going to
place the connection so that the rubber fitting is nice and flush with the shut-off valve.
These are 3/8” compression fittings. So you’re just to tighten them by hand at first,
and then use a wrench to tighten it down by another ¼, another ½ turn. Again, make sure
that this is not cross-threaded because if it is, you’re in for a big surprise in terms
of water going everywhere. So this is as tight as I can get it by hand. I’m going to tighten
it another ¼ to ½ turn. If you move the shut-off valve just a little bit slowly so
that you can access this nut to turn it if you don’t have enough room back here. You
want to do the exact same thing for the cold side.
Do one final test to make sure that the sink is nice and secure to the wall. It is in this
case. So our last step is to remove the aerator with this tool so that when we turn on the
water at the faucet, any debris that’s in the lines won’t clog up the aerator. Turn
this like so. This will remove the aerator from the faucet. Flush the lines. See? Good
thing we did that because there was some debris that was in there. All you have to do now
is put the aerator back in, and you’re done. Oh, as a side note, make sure that you have
the pop-up in the down position in case the washer from your aerator falls down into the
sink. The last thing to do besides checking that
the pipes aren’t leaking underneath this is to apply a bead of silicone sealant between
the sink and the wall. That way when there’s water splashing, it won’t go behind the
sink. And that’s a good thing. Well there you have it. That’s how you install
a pedestal sink in your bathroom. I hope that you like this video. Hopefully it helps you
out with your own project. If it did, go ahead and give me a thumbs up over on YouTube or
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I really appreciate your time. Take care, and I’ll see you in the next one.