How to Install a Wall Mounted Pedestal Sink (Step-by-Step)

How to Install a Wall Mounted Pedestal Sink (Step-by-Step)


In today’s video we’re going to share
with you how to install a floating sink like this one here. This is from American Standard.
We’ve partnered with American Standard on this small bathroom remodel here, and sometimes
having a floating sink in a bathroom is great because you don’t have a ton of room, you
want it to look modern, and this is a phenomenal option. So we’re going to show you how to
install this, and in the end you’ll be able to do it yourself.
We’re going to install this pedestal sink that’s actually a semi-pedestal. Basically
it’s going to be looking like a floating pedestal sink essentially, this being the
semi-pedestal, and then you have kind of a standard-looking pedestal sink top. So with
that being said, you could pretty much make this height kind of whatever you want because
you’re not being dictated by a full pedestal. But I would still say a normal height would
be anywhere between 34” and 36”. Most cabinetry now is coming out to be 34 ½”
and then you have your countertop. And a lot of times they’ll make it about 35 ½”,
36”. So we’re probably going to stick to that 35” mark. I have a mark on the wall
here dictating that. But really I mean it’s whatever you feel is comfortable. If you keep
it around 35” that should work out pretty well.
I’m hopefully going to help some of you not make the same mistakes that I have made.
This was existing plumbing. I did put a new drain adaptor onto the existing plumbing,
and that’s really about it. Everything else was kind of existing. Here I put some new
valves on these existing valve stems. But one of the things I should have probably paid
attention to with this semi-pedestal sink, if you look in the instructions, which I should
have done originally, it’ll say that you want to have these valve stems 3” apart.
I have a little bit of movement in this. I don’t want to stress it too much, but I
could get this down to about 4 ½” without having to redo all this plumbing. And as you
could see, I already tiled everything. I have holes cut for it. So to try and change this
now would actually be pretty painful. That being said, the accurate way to go about this
is to keep the 3” apart. So if you’re doing this prior to getting started, just
make your valves 3” apart. And then they want you to be 24 ¾” off of your finished
floor. So if I want to just move this up about another 2”and then together, I’ll be right
where I need it to be. Now the drain port, they’re saying to be 21”, 20 ¼”. This
is just going to work fine for that. But if you can raise this up another ¾”, that
would be better. Turn off the water to these valves just in
case you bump any of these shutoff valves and turn them on. You don’t want to get
the whole place wet. So I’ll show you an issue with not having
these valves in the correct position. So when I go to install this, you can see that this
is rubbing against my escutcheon plates. So I’m going to remove the escutcheon plates.
And really you’re not going to be able to see this inside of this pedestal sink anyways.
So having these on here are kind of just for show really. So I’m going to remove those.
And if you’re working by yourself, I would recommend basically kind of installing this
base first and then sitting on your pedestal sink on top to get the holes that you need
to drill for the top. It’s just going to make it a lot easier. It’s pretty difficult
to hold the pedestal sink up and then try to mark where your holes are by yourself.
From the top of this to the top of your sink is about 7”. Align this. If you want 35”
to be your top mark, then you will have to be 28” from the top of this to your floor.
So we already kind of have that marked out here. And I’m going to put a level. Mark
where these holes are. There’s three of them.
So we have a third hole right here in the center. One of the biggest problems with that
is our drain’s right here and our drain pipe goes straight down. We’re going to
opt out of drilling a hole into this one. There’s just no way that you can do that
without drilling into the drain. So we’re just going to do these top holes here, which
is going to be more than enough. You’re going to have holes to hold this bottom semi-base
up, and you’re going to have two holes to hold the top pedestal sink up. So you really
got way more than enough support to hold that. So these little type screws, this basically
will screw into the wood that you have behind your tile. And then notice, thread this on
to your pedestal sink to hold it into place. So with these smaller ones, these are only
¼”, we’re going to just cut a ½” hole. Then we’re going to use a diamond bit to
get through my porcelain tile. As you can see Steve is starting the diamond
bit at a 45° angle. And then he’s going to dip it water to cool it off, and he’s
slowly tilting it back to 90° where he can cut the hole through that ceramic tile. So
that’s the proper technique for cutting through ceramic tile with these diamond bits.
And if you want to preserve them and use them again and again, dipping them into the water
every 5 to 10 seconds will preserve the diamond on the bit, and you’ll be able to prolong
the life of it. So again you can see here tilted at 45° and then slowly turn it to
90° and that’s how you’re going to cut through ceramic or porcelain tile. And we’ll
put a link to all the tools that we use in this video in the description.
So there’s really no easy way to get this in here with these smaller screws, but you
want to make sure you don’t screw up your threads at the end of your bolt here because
that’s obviously what’s going to allow you to tighten your pedestal to it. As long
as that’s anchored into the wood. And then we’ll go ahead and place our pedestal in.
So this is going to be temporary; we’re not going to mount this permanently. This
will just allow us to rest the pedestal on top and mark where we need holes for that.
Just hand-tighten that. Just make sure it’s level. With that sitting on top, I just want
to double check that this is level as well. There you go. So if you’re working by yourself
it’s definitely easier just to have that temporarily up so that you could mark the
holes. Hopefully that’s marked them. Okay, so we got that same build here, ½”
holes. So these top ones came with a lot larger anchors to get in here. So I’m actually
going to get a pilot bit to drill this out a little bit and place these in. So I’m
just going to use a ¼” drill bit to drill into my wood behind here. Just get it started.
Okay that’s the reason why you want to test this. Great. Perfect. Now that we have that
all in place… so when it’s up there, some minor adjustments to get this completely level.
Okay so now we have all our bolts in, we’re going to take this semi-pedestal off. We’re
going to put the sink faucet on the sink, place it on the top bolts, and then put this
in after we have the plumbing connected and tested.
Okay, so we’re going to go ahead and install this single-hand handle faucet. One of the
nice things about this, what I really like about this system is, for one, it has the
supply lines already connected to it, so there’s not additional supplies you have to buy. For
the overflow tube that’s the blocker, it’s already integrated into this, so there’s
no fighting. You have the down rod for the plate. And then this little guy is what’s
going to hold it to the thing. So just make sure your rubber gasket’s still here. Set
this all in here. Put your nut back on there. This is kind of nice. This has a little foam
gasket that allows you to… you want to keep this on the sink side. This kind of acts as
your plumber’s putty or silicone, so you don’t even have to mess around with anything
on the inside of the sink. Pop it in. Put your big, rubber washer on there. Little plastic
slip ring. And tighten that in place. So what’s awesome is you can just attach your cable
to there. So and that just takes care of your pop-up drain, which is awesome. You want to
make sure that this little rubber gasket stays on this pipe before you thread it. And to
tell you the truth, a lot of problems that I have sometimes with these things, I really
just like to put clear silicone around it. Nothing more frustrating than having a leak
out of this thread. So I really just… I prefer just to put a little bit of silicone
on there and then clean it off. Just hand-tight. Place the supply lines on the shutoffs by
hand, and then you can tighten them with a wrench by ¼ to ½ turn.
One of the things about the P-trap. So when you put it in place against to where you’re
going to install it—you see we got about 5” or so, 4” or 5” from here—you don’t
want to just stick this all the way in there because if this goes beyond the tee, then
you’re going to… like if this is the back of the back wall pipe, the more you shrink
this, the more likelihood that hair is going to get stuck right up against the back of
that pipe. So you want to cut the pipe to fit. And normally I would just take half that
distance to cut off. I mean we can get a measuring tape, but I would just take about 2” off
the back of this. Okay, so when you put this up—it’s a tapered
washer—you want to have the tapered end down, the thin part down. So put your nut
and the fitting with the tapered end down. Okay, so tip #1: You have to have these top
bolts loosen up a little bit so that we slide the base in this can move up just a little
bit. If you have this completely anchored then the base you can’t slide up inside
of this upper lip. So loosen these bolts a little bit to get this semi-base in.
We used this wrench to tighten down on the nuts that hold the pedestal to the wall, and
we really, really like how this sink turned out in the bathroom.
Having a floating sink on your tile bathroom wall really adds to the décor of the entire
bathroom. And like I said at the beginning, if you have a small bathroom like this one
here, then having this sink is great. It doesn’t take up a ton of space, and you can even put
storage underneath it in the form of a basket for things like toilet paper or even toiletries
if you want. So that’s it for today. If you want our
guide on how to do a bathroom makeover, you can get that guide right here. It’s phenomenal.
It’s very quick and to-the-point. And it’ll show you exactly step-by-step how they could
do a bathroom makeover in 10 days or less. Thanks for watching today’s video. Take
care. We’ll talk to you soon.

18 thoughts on “How to Install a Wall Mounted Pedestal Sink (Step-by-Step)

  1. The proper tool to install the mounting bolts is called a hanger bolt driver.

    It is a drill accessory that you thread the machine thread end into and then you can drive the lag end into the structure.

  2. Thanks for another excellent how-to. Did you tighten the pedestal bolts after the sink basin is installed? Looked to me like there's not way even to put the nuts on, much less tighten them.

  3. I agree, those threads on the tsilpieces are usually total crap, espexially on the cheap junk made these days. No amount of teflon stops that tiny drop from leaking out. Might as well silicone it

  4. Great job on the video. Hipster style construction is so so cool. The plumber was a cool dude and the main guy was perfect! I like that it was not exactly 24 inch water supply at 5 6 inch and not 3, and not 21 tailpipe, and still worked perfect. The tile is so nice.

  5. did you place the studs there on purpose for the sink? seems like really odd stud placement and unlikely for a remodel. What do you do if the sink mounting holes do not align with studs? thanks.

  6. hahah what was that manufacturer thinking by putting that 3rd hole right where the drain line is… I mean, pipes typically follow gravity down. I have yet to see a drain line coming from above ๐Ÿ˜‰

  7. Man.. you really need to think ahead for doing on of these.. You can't just anchor and finish. That would be some very odd stud placement lol

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