– Hey guys, my name’s Aaron Massey from, and welcome back to another episode of homeschool’d. It’s been an extremely wet winter here in Southern California, and
while that’s great for a state that’s been battling a severe
drought for a number of years, it’s not so great for a
house without gutters. So today, I’m gonna show you how to install gutters on your house. Gutters are an extremely
important part of your house, because they collect and divert rain water away from your foundation. Without gutters, the rain
water falls directly down along your foundation walls, and can cause problems over time. Eroding some of the soil, or undermining the foundation entirely, which can lead to failure. And if that happens, your talking tens of thousands
of dollars to repair. It can also lead to
flooding of your basement, or your crawlspace if you have one, so adding gutters to your house is a relatively inexpensive
way to protect your investment. I rate these projects by how
many f-bombs you’re likely to drop while tackling the project. This one is not to f(drilling) difficult, but it does require a few
tools you may need to buy or borrow from a friend or family member to help knock it out. Step one is to measure the
sections of roof you need to install your gutters on
and determine a rough layout. Now if you were to have your gutters
installed professionally, you would probably get a seamless gutter. What that means is, one solid
piece of gutter per section, and the reason why that’s beneficial is because it’s one solid piece. And so there’s not really weak
points where water can drip and leak and stuff like that. The big box stores typically sell gutters in aluminum and vinyl, and
several different colors, but only in 10 foot length. So you’re either gonna be
stuck with prefab sections of 10 foot lengths, and put
your whole thing together, or you’re gonna have to
get your gutters made. But at that point, you might as well pay to have somebody do it for you. Depending on your rough layout,
you’ll likely need to buy a combination of a bunch of
different pieces including: endcaps, inside and outside
corners, downspout connections, 45 degree elbows, strapping, slip joints, and downspout and gutter sections. I recommend just buying more
than you need of each thing, and then returning any unused
pieces when you’re done. It makes things a lot easier, and you don’t have to go
through and count each piece. When laying out your gutters,
plan to install a downspout around every 30 feet. You can always check local
codes as well to make sure that you have adequate spacing. Next, start to assemble your gutter based on the measurements
you took previously. In this case, this section of
gutter is just shy of 28 feet, so I’ll make it outta three pieces. At each joint you’ll need to connect the two pieces of gutter. Now, you can use these
slip joint connectors, where one piece of gutter
slides into each end, but I find it really difficult
to make them watertight. Even after adding a
bunch of sealant in here, and I also find that they
become a really weak point of the gutter because they don’t overlap. What I choose to do instead
is to actually just cut back a few inches on the
front lip of the gutter, and then slide the other piece inside, in the direction that I
need the water to shed. So the piece that you
cut, is always the outside of the two pieces you’re joining together. To secure them together, make sure to put a nice
thick bead of sealant. I’m using this DAP clear sealant, which is specifically
made for this application, but you can also use
silicone if you choose to. And then you can use multiple
ways to fasten them together. If you have a rivet gun, this
is the perfect time to use it. Predrill a hole, and
then place the rivets in. And then tighten ’em and snap ’em on. If you don’t have a rivet gun, you can also buy gutter screws to secure the pieces together. I find two screws or rivets on each side, on the top of the gutter, work well for holding everything together. I find it gives the gutter a
lot more strength this way, and because it overlaps,
you have a watertight seal. To cut the gutter to
length, I use a speed square to mark out my cut line. And then I like to use a
thin, metal, cut off wheel on my angle grinder to
make a nice, clean cut. I find this is way easier
than using metal snips or a hacksaw, and it
gives me a cleaner cut. At the ends of the gutters,
you’ll need to install your gutter caps. They come in left and right
ends, and to install them you just add a nice
bead of sealant on them, and then slide them on the end. Now, I’m using a crimping tool
to hold these caps in place. This tool puts a little divot
on one side of the metal, and presses it into the other piece to create a really tight hold. Now if you don’t have one of these, which I’m assuming many of you don’t, you can just predrill and
use the same gutter screws or rivets to hold it in place. Finally to install the
downspout connections, you have a few options. They sell these prefab
downspout pieces you can use. To attach them, you flip
the piece upside down to lock the metal lips together, and then spin it down into place. The same thing applies to
attaching it as the other pieces. Make sure you add a lot of
sealant, and then use screws or rivets to hold it in place. Another option for downspouts,
and the option that I prefer, are these downspout inserts. These can be placed anywhere
along the gutter length. And to install them, just trace them out, and then cut the piece out. I prefer to start with a hole saw, and then snip out the
rest to get a nice fit. Add some sealant all the way
around it before installing this in place as well. Now that the gutter is complete, I like to loosely space out
the hangers for the gutter. These hangers slip under the front lip and then slide over
the back of the gutter, so trying to get them to
go under the front lip once on the house can be very difficult with the roof and the
drip edge in the way. So I like to do it on the ground, before I actually lift
the gutter in place. The other thing to consider, is you don’t wanna hang
the gutter to high. I like to use a level on the roof to extend the roof edge out. The front of the gutter on the high side should start just below that level, and slope towards the
downspout from there. One thing you can do to
help you install your gutter is to set a nail and
then use a string level and a chalk line to make sure that you have a nice clean line to follow, so when you go to install the gutter you can just follow that line. Or you can also start at one
end, and use a four foot level as you go to make sure
that you keep the slope that you need. You want your gutter to
shed in the direction of your downspout, and the rule of thumb is to have it drop about a half inch for every 10 feet of gutter length. The idea is that you just need
to maintain adequate slope, so that the water sheds
towards your downspout. To secure the gutter to the fascia, I slide the gutter hangers in place to line up with the
rafter tails of the house and then screw them down. I always like to test the
function of the gutter system with a hose to make sure
everything is water tight, and there are no leaks
before wrapping it up. Lastly, it’s time to
install the downspout. Typically, you’ll use
a combination of elbows to bring the downspout back
towards the exterior wall of the house, and then
secure a length of downspout down the side of the
house with some strapping. At this point, you could also add a rain barrel collection
system, if you choose to, which I’ve added in
some areas of the house. Or you can just make sure
that the water sheds down away from your foundation. And that is it. You are done with this project. That’s it for this episode of homescool’d. I hope you guys enjoyed it, and I hope you learned something. Installing gutters can
take a little bit of time, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a project you can
relatively easily tackle on your own and hopefully
save yourself some money. If you guys did like this episode, please hit that like button,
and leave a comment down below. And let me know. Also, if you wanna check out
more of my home improvement or DIY project videos, I’ll
post links to those right here. Or you can always follow all
of my content on my website at Thank you guys so much for watching. I’ll see ya next time. (energetic music)


  1. Great Video, very imformative and simple to follow. I did the task with only one F Bomb… When cutting the top for the two pieces to fit together, YOU F bombed… You should cut the top to the gutter going towards the slope, so that the cut is INSIDE the gutter. You left the cut line on the outside and riveted together. I realized the mistake after I made the cut, so one gutter is kinda an eye sore and the other is perfect. I appreciate your video, I feel like a pro now.

  2. I liked the video, it had good camera movement, and the audio was good to excellent.  The video moved right along, I also liked the way you used your tools, showing how to cut the down spout holes and joining two gutters together.  All in all a great video.  Thanks

  3. BTW, If my memory is correct from a project years back, you can hide that ugly cut edge on the overlap by sliding the cut edge inside the other section. You just have to be aware of getting the overlap with the direction of water flow. But this is a great tip for those who have not tried this, gutter is much more stable without the crappy factory connector. Save money on connectors and do it the way he shows.

  4. -Increases the size of the outlet so less chance stuff in the gutter tray gets hung up

  5. This guy wanted me to do the homedepot gutters on the front of his house and garage and wanted me to go get the material and bring it to his house to install.. about 60ft.. he said he'll pay me and my brother to do the install a $100 bucks for me and my brother to split.. and that's us driving to homedopt and getting the material!! Some people are crazy a swear!!

  6. Ok ok ok lo siento pero el que no me entienda ya se la pelo punto numero 1 por favor no pongan gutters por secciones si no hasta las esquinas porque luego se inclinan no sirve punto numero 2 no pongan hangers con tornillo de punta de broca eso facilita que se afloje y se salga punto numero 3 que lo hagan los expertos si no te saldra mas caro quitarás esos en poco tiempo y pagaras por quitar los que pusiste y poner otros nuevos punto numero 4 esos downspouts quedaron mal el ensamble no debe quedar abajo ni los tornillos😎 conclusión mejor paga para que quede bien 😌

  7. The only item that he didn't mention is that when assembling your downspout run. Make sure to put each place INTO the next piece working from the gutter to the ground. This allows for water to flow without any restriction or possibility of escaping at the join between each elbow / extension. As a professional contractor, I approve of this video!

  8. Tring to find out how to price installing new hanger on a gutter system that needs repair. Any help would be appreciated. I assume I would price them per new hanger installed but don't really know the going rate. Thks

  9. Great video. It gave me the confidence I needed to tackle gutter installation on my house.

    F bomb rating should be a standard rating system.

  10. Ah man this is so helpful! So concise and straight forward. Living in SoCal and dealing with a house not equipped to handle rain I felt like this was directed towards me haha.

  11. How do you connect the inside miter joints to the gutter? Do they slide inside each other or do you need a slip joint?

  12. You nailed it!!!! Very good informative video! Thank you for sharing alot! I have a straight 30' piece & a 20' straight. I'm guessing I'll 5 down spouts? I seen some vinyl gutters online & the K series aluminum. The reviews for the vinyl is a 3 while the aluminum is 4.6 @ HD. Trying to save some $. Not so much vs the 2? 8' sections? Any advise would help! Thank you!!! Your good!

    No wonder your slip connectors always leak.
    Use the silver/gray version of Geocel gutter seal, a self-leveling product that applies out of a caulk gun. It will flow into the seams as it sets and never, ever, leak. The white version doesn’t flow as well. Even if it’s your first time working with sealing gutters it will never leak. Just make sure you don’t skimp, put a nice fat bead along the joint.
    The home center hangers he is using are terrible and they are dangerous. They are not strong enough to keep the gutter from crushing when a ladder is leaned on it, especially on 24” centers. Go to a roofing supply house and buy the actual hidden hangers those pieces of crap are imitating. Do not use them.
    Videos like this keep me in business but I
    I have to say I’ve almost gotten injured numerous times from putting a tall extension ladder against poorly done installations like this and having the gutter crush and ladder kick. I can’t not comment because you are potentially injuring a future roofer who doesn’t know you used dangerously cheap hangers.
    Silicone caulk is totally worthless for roofing or gutter applications. It lasts “forever” but in a year or so you can grab it with two fingers and pull it off. I’ve repaired leaky gutters where someone has pumped a tube of silicone into the end, making a big thick block. Reached in, pulled it out, brushed it clean and sealed it properly. No effort to remove it. Just picked it up.
    For roofing, siding repairs use NPC Solar Seal 900 clear for all fine (less that 3/8” wide, maybe up to 1/2” if you pack it and tool) sealing and adhesive work except for gutters. It will work but Geocel Gutter Seal is half the price and the flow really is the key.
    If you’re not near a gutter supply or roofing supply you can buy Amerimax Gutter Seal at Home Depot. It works pretty well.
    The 28’ gutter he put up in the video costs about $250 to have installed. That’s labor and materials for a seamless 5” K-style heavy gauge white gutter (up to 50% thicker than the one in the video is) and heavy duty hidden hangers, with outlets for downspouts cut into the actual gutter with a perfect sized hole saw for a machined fit so that the peans in the outlet snap onto the gutter, locking it in place. Is that worth doing yourself?
    The job is low, short and easy to access. Try doing that on 40-ft ladders on the slope of a rocky hillside.
    I don’t mean to dump on the guy, but home center installation methods (and products) are not pro installation methods. If I came to install a new roof on your home, I would have to replace that gutter even if you installed it last week. We would absolutely crush it, even on 16” centers. If you had good .032 gutters and professional heavy duty hidden hangers, it wouldn’t be affected at all.
    Fast Roofing & Gutter

  14. Careful using a rain collection barrels, some states put limits on rain collection. Luckily I live in Idaho and they don't care what we do here.

  15. So it has to slope towards the downspout… Ok. I've never done this before I though being completely flat was ok. Trying to build my own house. Sloping to downspout half inch for every 10 feet of gutter length. Easy conversion. Gotcha! Thanks. ^_^

    Side-note: I've never heard of Rafter Tails before…. Cool. Rafter tails make everything easier.

  16. My challenge is how to redirect the water away from the house after passing through the down spout. I need some sort of tube that runs along the ground.

  17. My wife and I installed 36 feet of gutters using the methods taught in this video. It was just under $300 in material (including the Hoover Dam Leaf Guard (which was much needed for our yard). It took us 8 hours, because we had to work around our toddler's needs, but if you don't have little ones to tend to you could get through this type of project pretty quickly. This video was extremely helpful – thanks man!

  18. well done, explained in brief yet clear manner. I especially appreciated his recommendation of using lap joints rather than the available joint sections which as he pointed out are harder to seal.

  19. Or you can spend just a little more money, have a seem less system installed, with a warranty, and not fall off a ladder.

  20. A great video. 2 important items he shows. Getting rid of both the union connection and the bulky downspout adapter! Excellent.

  21. Great video. Home Depot carries 16 ft pieces in white aluminum for less than $18 each 😳😳😳😳..

  22. Great tip about not using jointing pieces. That way you can get the water to run OVER the joint on its way to the down spout and not into it!

  23. I have watched several how to install gutter videos this morning and yours is by far the best. Using a cut off wheel sure beats a hack saw or Sawzall like I see on other videos. And overlapping at the splices seems much stronger than the little splice joints. Thanks for a great video!

  24. Thank you so much for this video. This is the best one on the topic, and I've seen them all. You saved me money and time.

  25. WOW. Went into this thinking how good can it be at < 7 minutes. Well, pretty f-bomb'n good. Straight into it with no fluff. YouTube needs more to follow this model!

  26. 174 down votes? And yet I see no one posted an expert explanation why he got it wrong!??! Great video, MrFixit!!

  27. So, I used this video as a guide to do some gutters (just the start, much more to go). I put up about 80' of gutter, and it went better than might have been expected for a first-timer… lol.

    I will say that doing more than 2 lengths of gutter is just too much weight, and they will sag and bend when you try to put them up. I was able to repair them easily enough, but only because I did come up with an idea that worked pretty well if you don't have any help: I have a metal roof, and drilled some small holes on the upper portion of the ribs to attach short bungee cords, so that the gutter literally hung less than a foot below the level it was going to be attached to the house. I screwed in the hanger near the bungee cord, then worked it out, and went to the next. At that point, I went back and screwed in the rest of the hangers. I did have one joint that leaked a little (one that I had to redo because it sagged so much the rivets popped); other than that, it came out leak-free, and once I got the hang of the rivets, they looked pretty good. As I continue, I will join two sections at a time, then drill the holes to join them together, but do that once they're hanging.

    It was a bit of a hassle that the gutters didn't always line up very well, with some notable gaps even after really fighting to get it as tight as possible. I used plenty of gutter caulking in the apx 4" overlap, so there wasn't leaks, but it was a bit of a surprise; I thought it would have been easier than it was in that regard. I also found that snips are more of a pain than anything else to use on this; mine at least tore up the gutters, so I went with using an angle grinder, which made some really clean cuts. Overall, though, taking my time and trying to follow the info here made it much easier than just winging it on my own, and cheaper than paying someone else to do it (since I have another 200+ feet to go!).

  28. I love the rain barrel idea! I've been trying to figure out what to do about the rain pooling in a corner of my cemented, enclosed small patio. That barrel or some version of that look is going to be great!!

  29. What I liked about this he got right down to the basics. He told the method, the reason, and how to do it. He did not say a lot of BS that we don't want to hear. This is how to make these DIY vids.

  30. Do those brackets work if the fascia is not perpendicular to the ground? The fascia on my home is angled inward about 25, 30 degrees.

  31. Definitely saved me at least 2 F Bombs. Great tips I never knew about the downspout insert and avoiding the joiners by cutting back the gutter and sliding the other one in. Brilliant ! Thanks

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