How to Make a Stool // 2 Different Methods

How to Make a Stool // 2 Different Methods

Today we’re making two versions of the same
stool using different methods of construction and materials. This is basically the same stool design but
each version uses different methods and materials, so the end results are quite distinct. The only part that really looks similar is
the red velvet cushion because everything else looks and feels totally different just
by changing the material and the building process. The first version is all cnc’d on the X-Carve
from Inventables and it’s made out of birch plywood. The second version that is made out of solid
wood can also be done on the X-Carve or with power tools or with hand tools. The great thing about sending a design to
be cut on a computer controlled machine is that you can have lots of repetition without
much effort. So, let’s say you need 6 stools like this
and you have a CNC machine around and some plywood sheets – there’s not much more needed
to complete the project. I only used a file and a few clamps and a
driller besides the X-Carve. So I kept changing some plywood scraps I had
until all parts were carved and I just screw them directly to the machine table, making
sure that none of the screws is on the milling path. You might notice that I got some upgrades
on the hardware, being the cutting height much higher now and the Z-axis a lot sturdier. This upgrade kit was sent to me by tbd CNC
and was pretty easy to install and re-calibrate. The X-carve is a lot more robust now but I
haven’t put it to stress tests just yet, so I’ll leave the thoughts on the subject
for a future episode. I’ll have the links for the machine and
the upgrade kit on the description below. Once the pieces were cut, I took a couple
minutes sanding the rough edges since I was using a not so sharp up-cut straight bit. I can now cut the tabs and pop out each component. Now that the base section is cut, I need a
frame to rest the cushion on, so I placed another scrap on plywood and went to town. Eventually a compression bit came in the mail
so I replaced the previous up-cut bit for this one to see if there was any improvements
on the cut quality. But turns out that this bit is supposed to
cut over 3mm on the first pass in order to the downcut part of the spiral be hitting
the surface of the plywood and produce a super clean edge. I didn’t know this at the time so you’ll
later see how the cuts were not as clean as expected. It worked fine here on the sitting panel though
because this is pre-finished plywood. Now it’s time to do a little hand work and
square up these rounded corners. Alternatively you could round the stretcher
ends instead, if you prefer. I applied a few points of CA glue in conjunction
with the wood glue to give a quick tack while clamping and not having the pieces sliding
misaligned. But that step is skippable. After some sanding and a couple holes on the
sitting frame, the stool was ready to be glued together. The joints were pretty snug so I didn’t
apply that much glue. While it is drying, I can start working on
the cushion. So I cut two pieces of 20mm foam to size and
spray glued them together as well to the plywood base. If you are wondering why it has 4 holes underneath,
it is for the air to escape when someone sits. If the air can’t escape, the fabric might
tear and your nice cushion will be destroyed. I found that using the cardboard box was a
great solution to not getting excess glue sprayed all over the place. After covering the foam with a layer of polyester
batting, I cut the excess and stapled the red velvet as best as I could. I definitely need to upgrade my upholstery
skills but thankfully this face will never be seen, unless you flip the stool over. And the first version is done. Now let’s work with some solid wood. I had this beech board forever on my studio
so I decided to finally make something with it. It is pretty warped and I don’t have a jointer,
so I grabbed a hand plane and removed some material on the higher spots until there wasn’t
much wobble. I then utilized a method for planning a board
on the thickness planer and it worked really well. It consists on having a straight plywood panel
and placing wedges on areas where there is a gap between the plywood and the board to
be flattened. This will prevent the rollers inside the thickness
planer from pushing that cupped area down, therefore creating a perfectly straight top
surface. You need to make multiple passes until the
entire board is nice and flat. I can now remove the wood board from the jig
and plane the other face normally as now I have a good reference to create a parallel
face from. This version of the stool is all constructed
using half lap joints and I’ll show you how this can be achieved both using the X-Carve
and regular power tools. For the X-Carve method, it’s crucial to
measure the exact thickness of the board to adapt your design. It’s a good idea to make a test first and
make sure the half laps are well fitted before cutting all the components. And here’s the new compression bit not working
properly because I should have it going deeper on each pass. Once your pieces are cut, the procedure is
very similar to the plywood stool. You need to release the pieces from the tabs
and square up the rounded inside corners of some of the joints. Now, for the power tool method, I started
by slicing the board in 3 x 3 cm strips on the table saw. There was some burning from the table saw
blade so I gave them a few passes on the drum sander. I could then cut them to lengh. And something scary happened. You can see what happened in detail on my
instagram post but basically the steel square was forgotten on the saw and was pushed into
the blade by the plastic protection cover. The ruler was projected and thankfully nothing
hit me. The square body got eaten up by the blade,
the ruler got bent and the blade lost one tooth. This was a very happy ending situation and
I included this event just to force us remember how safety is always so important and we should
never lose our attention over what we’re doing. I haven’t used the miter saw since then
because I need to order a replacement blade but also because I got a bit scared. So, the next day, I made a cross cut sled
for the new table saw and continued the project. I kept cross cutting to size all the legs
and stretchers and then starting the half lap joinery. I started by making a test to know what to
expect and it looks very nice and tight but the bottom cut was a little oversized, so
there was this gap. I had to find the perfect fit and work from
there. I only made the nice and straight pencil marks
on one leg because the other three will follow that one. So, I spaced the stretchers 10 and 16,5 cm
from the bottom of the leg and drew the areas to be cut out. I sketched this on every leg so I don’t
get confused but the perfect measurements are only marked on the first leg. So I clamped the stop block for the first
cut line and it was a matter of repeating the cut for the rest of the legs. I repeated the process for the second cut
of the half lap, that by the way, can be done using a hand saw, so you can make this entire
stool using only hand tools if you prefer. I snapped a little bit of the joint to be
able to insert the stretcher and see how big or small the cut was. it was great, so I kept cutting the other
legs. You can make adjustments to the stop block
to make sure the joints come out snug. The material in the middle will then be removed
with a chisel. if you have a dado blade, this would be a great opportunity to use it, or
even a flat teeth saw blade. The tops of the legs and the stretchers themselves
have the joinery on the tops, which makes it possible to cut on both directions and
create the joint entirely on the table saw. All you have to do is to clamp the pieces
in place vertically. So, here I was chiselling the remaining middle
sections of the joints. It helps to mark the centre line with a knife
or a marking gauge because you can fit the chisel on the scored line to get a perfect
cut. As the middle line is approaching, it’s
better to chisel only half way and flip the piece over to continue, to avoid snapping
off too much material from the face that is facing down. After checking everything for fit, I could
finally work on the glue up. I sanded everything smooth and chamfered the
bottom of the legs to prevent them from splitting when in contact with the floor. We still need to make the sitting frame so
I glued a few strips of beech that were left overs from the inicial board and left the
ends shorter in some of them to create automatic half laps. I also attached the frame with screws to the
stool legs, just like I did for the plywood version. So I drilled a bunch of holes, some to put
the frame together and some to attach later to the stool legs. Unfortunately there was a little gap on one
side. I probably rounded that area a bit when using
the palm sander so I snapped a heavy shaving from a scrap piece and pressed it firmly into
the gap. After two coats of hard wax, we are almost
done. Last thing we need is another cushion and
for that I cut a 6 mm birch plywood rectangle and drilled 4 holes, just like the one in
the first version. The upholstery steps were repeated and it
just fits snugly in place. You can attach it with screws from underneath
but I don’t think it is necessary as this is pressure fitted. And here they are, two stools that came from
the same idea and overall design but look very different due to the construction method
and the chosen materials. I’m not sure which one I prefer but I think
that the solid wood makes me feel a little more proud and it could also be my tendency
for crisp and square design. It just feels more elegant. Even though, the rounded plywood option is
still pretty cool and has a cutter look, maybe not so serious. I don’t know, let me know which one you
prefer on the comments below, I’d love to hear your thoughts! Alright, so, thanks everyone for watching,
thanks to Inventables and my Patreon members for the continuous amazing support and if
you’re interested in supporting my work too, head over to my Patreon page. I recently updated the rewards section so
take a look and see if this is for you! Oh and if you’re new to the channel, take
a moment to subscribe and hit the bell so you always get notified when a new video comes
up! Thanks everyone and don’t forget to get
your hands dirty!

57 thoughts on “How to Make a Stool // 2 Different Methods

  1. Какая же ты Молодец!!!
    Руки из правильного места растут!!!
    Счастья, успехов и здоровья!!!
    Жду следующих роликов.

  2. Mmmm.. so hard to choose. I love the solid wood joints, they are beautiful, but also love the curve of the ply. Glad you're OK, and thanks as always for sharing your work.

  3. I would imagine plywood would be more durable. However (I have no doubt the person making these stools was well aware), the solid wood stool simply wasn't designed for the method of construction. The tab-and-slot joints made sense for CNC, but for regular saws, the joints should probably be either mortise/tenon or finger joints (like what Mathias Wandel does).

  4. I love the hand precision and clean lines of the solid wood one, personally, although they both look nice. I feel like the plywood one would work really well in a room that fit that style, with other exposed-edge plywood furniture. Also, I feel like it would go well in a kindergarten class; the rounded edges seem a better option for furniture in an environment full of kids who play hard.

  5. I think both are very nice as appearance, especially having the red color. My favorite is the "hand-made" one because you put more passion during the process. Please be careful with the power tools.

  6. Love the fabric, any information it's color name. I use a tool tray near any power tools. seen a router bit that flew out and bend the shaft. kickback on a table saw that missed me from a saw off to one side. a face shield with a gouge in it. high school accident. wood blew apart on table saw I was working on. bad wood that looked normal. glad you are ok.

  7. Lindas banquetas, Cristiana. Por gentileza, poderia me indicar alguma loja em Portugal onde eu possa comprar uma Drum Sander e importá-la ao Brasil? Aqui no Brasil, acredite, não há essas máquinas à venda. Parabéns pelo trabalho. Se eu for a Porto algum dia, adoraria visitar o seu estúdio. Muito obrigado. Abraços.

  8. Great work! Both stools from the idea to the realization just superb. The only thing, be safe – safety always first!

  9. Definitely prefer the solid wood stool from the images in the video, however that could change after seeing both in person.

  10. This. Was. Awesome.
    Thank you. I really enjoyed watching you building those stools. That setup you have in your awesome workshop, damn!!! It's great! I am actually super green with envy, because your workshop and your skills are spot on. I am not a woodworker by profession, just a hobbyist, so I love videos like yours where every step and detail is explained. It helps me learn. And your video here was very educational for me. So thank you again. I learned a bunch of things today. Also, to answer your question from your video, I do prefer your solid wood stool. I mean, the way you built the other one was really cool, but comparing the finished products, the solid wood one just looks better to me. Anyway, awesome video content! Please keep up the awesome work. Thank you!

  11. I love both stools, the solid wood looks so elegant and the plywood a little youthful and trendy. Love your channel.

  12. Greetings. Thank you for the next educational video. I really hope that you got off with fright only during the case with the square. Please tell me, what kind of glue spray did you use?)

  13. Nicely done! I was wondering what is that table saw You are using unfortunately there's nothing about it on Your website. Greetings from Tenerife

  14. nah, the solid wood one is way better 🙂

    CNC's are great and all, they just still strike me as a "look at what I printed" rather than "look at what I made" 🙂

    great work on both though and I'm glad you're ok

  15. I guess the red fabric is too old school looking for the plywood one as it should be more informal or playful, I guess you know what I mean, Im allays impressed with the perfection and cleanness you work

  16. muy buen trabajo y muy bien explicado, debes tener mucha seguridad con las herramientas electricas, saludos y cuidate mucho.

  17. Вот скажи мне американцо — а сможешь ты сделать тоже самое ножовкой, проживая в двухкомнатной хрущёвке некоего Мухосранска?

  18. I fully commend you for including the incident with the saw. Glad you were ok, and including this might save someone else.

  19. The amount of love you show in your work is amazing
    The detail-oriented approach so needed in these days of rush

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *