How To Repair A Cut In A Tyre | MTB Maintenance

How To Repair A Cut In A Tyre | MTB Maintenance


– Today, we’re gonna
look at how you repair a slash in your tyre. Now, depending if you run
inner tubes, or tubeless, you do have some trail-side options. So, if you’re running an
inner tube in your tyre, you can put a tyre boot in
there, which would temporarily enable you to reinflate
your tyre and get back home. Like wise with tubeless set
ups, you can put one of those tyre plugs into the tyre, which effectively seals up the hole. But, it’s not a longterm
solution because the air will naturally start pushing
that slug back out again. So, this is how you can
permanently fix a tyre and still keep using it tubeless. Okay, so to repair your tyre, you’re gonna need a few things here. You gotta firstly have a lot
of patience because it’s quite a tricky fiddely little job. But, I can assure you, it
is worth while doin’ this, especially if you got a
fairly new tyre or your tyre has a lot of mileage left in it. Because they’re not cheap, so
it’s definitely worth keepin’ them going. If nothing else, keep it going as a spare. Keep it in the back of your
car, your van, whatever for that day when you do need a tyre ’cause you’ve damaged one so badly. Now, first you’re gonna need
a decent needle and thread. Now, to get through a tyre, you’re gonna need quite
a substantial needle. But, it can’t be so big that you create big holes in the tyre. So, what you want is a
sort of leather needle. They’ve quite a sort of,
spear headed tip on them to actually penetrate through and pull through a decent set of thread. Now, as far as thread
goes, there’s a few schools of thought on this. You can different sort of stuff. So, the traditional stuff you’d use with leather, is a waxed thread. And the reason for that is so that you can get through the leather itself. Now, that’s obviously a great
idea to use with a tyre. You could also use fishing
line because it’s very strong and it’s not gonna rot over time. I’ve been recommended to use linen thread because the
tensile strength of this stuff is really, really strong
and it’s easier to get into the needle in the first place. The point of this, is as long
as you’ve a strong thread and you’ve got a decent needle
to get through your tyre, You’re sorted. Obviously to go along with that thread, you’re gonna need a
decent pair of scissors. Get the sharpest ones possible, because otherwise when you
cut the thread to put through the needle, it’s gonna fray constantly. You’ll get, if you’re anything like me, really angry doing this. Next up you’re gonna need to prepare the tyre itself to do this job. Now, on the inside of the
tyre, if you’ve been using the tyre tubeless set up, you’re
gonna have all the sort of, rubberized gunk that left on the tyre. So, you’re gonna need
to remove that first. So, you want some sort of solvent cleaner. But, you definitely do not
want a cleaner that’s got any sort of lubricant in it. Because that will make the
surface of that tyre shiny and the patch will never stick to it. So, something that evaporates,
like a brake cleaner or some contact cleaner, any sort of isopropyl alcohol would work. Just make sure that it is
something that is zero, sort of, lubricant in there. And you’re also gonna need a
block and some emery paper. Now, what you wanna do is
just finely roughen the area around the cut just so
the vulcanising solution has the best chance of
gettin’ a good grip. Now, if you’re out on the
trail, you can patch up a tyre using these plugs. I’m gonna demonstrate to
you why this is really good. But, also why it won’t
last in the long term. This is a sort of a solution
so you can finish a race or finish a holiday for
example on that tyre. But, it will not last in the longterm. But, they are however, very good to have. So, you’re gonna need
some sort of decent patch to patch up the cut from
the inside of the tyre. So, not only does this
help stop the cut growing, but it also ensures that later,
you can about set the same tyre up tubeless again. Now, look for stuff in the
sort of, motor industry, stuff suitable for ATV’s or
motorcycle tyres and tubes to repair those. That is the sort of stuff that you want. This is made by Schrader. It’s heavy duty rubber and
it makes really well with the industrial strength vulcanising solution. You can also get, purpose
made, again for motorcycles and other things, giant patches. Which are suitable for
both the tyre carcass and an inner tube in this
case, a tyre carcass. So, this is the perfect tool for the job. Just to make the job a little bit easier, I recommend some parchment
or grease-proof baking paper, and a couple of these little clamps, or a big one if you’ve got one. Now, the reason for that
is just to hold the patch in place while it’s setting. You really wanna give it the longest time to set you possibly can. So, you don’t wanna
ride this the same day. This is like a long term fix, basically, And if you put a bit of
parchment over the patch when you clamp it, the clamp’s not
gonna stick to the rubber. The parchment itself is
really easy to remove if it does stick to the tyre itself. And finally, the last
thing you’re gonna need, is something to finish
the job on the outside. So, the idea is to stitch up the hole and then you wanna patch it on the inside. But, because the stitches are
still exposed on the outside, I wanna give it some protection
to make sure it stays fixed. Now, if any of you have ever
been into skateboarding, you’ll be familiar with this stuff. It’s called Shoe Goo. This is the sort of stuff you
would smear on the leading edge of your ollie foot or
your favourite foot forward to protect your shoe against
scuffing against the board when you’re doing ollie’s and
kick-flips and stuff like that. This can also be used to
repair the soles of shoes, when you’ve got a bit of crocodile shoes. So, a lot of 5/10’s sometimes
need a bit of help with that department, this stuff
is fantastic for it. And because it puts a very
rubbery coat on the top afterwards and it’s very
flexible, this is ideal for protecting the tyre
afterwards on the outside. Now depending on where exactly
you get the hole in your tyre does effect if you can
long term fix it or not. If it’s really close to the
bead, then basically forget it because it will tear. You’ll never gonna be able
to reinforce it properly. You could arguably just put
loads of stitching ’round it just to hold it in place. But, you won’t really
be able to seal this up in a tubeless way. Now, if it’s on the main part
of the tread, you are gonna be able to seal this up. But, it’s gonna be very hard to stitch on this part of the tyre. So, you do need to consider that. Now, finally the sidewall,
which is pretty much the sort of place you get a tear in
tyre, that writes off a tyre. That is where this technique
comes in really, really handy. So, I just wanna demonstrate
to you how this sort of tyre plugs, or slugs work if you’re gonna use
these out on the trail. I’ll just demonstrate to you why they’re not gonna stay in there long term and why stitching the tyre is
actually a better solution. So, if you encounter one of
these when you’re at the side of the trail and the first
thing you wanna do, is get a sort of, reaming tool and
you just clear the hole out a bit and make sure it’s a
good enough size to actually get that plug into place. When you’re doing this
with a tyre on the wheel, like you would at the side of the trail, it gives it a bit more support. So, it’s actually easier to do it. There you go. So, I’ve got the plug into
place and then you need to pull the tool back out again. It’s quite tricky to do
it, and there you go. And the plug stays into the tyre there. Now, these sort of kits, do
come with a little knife. So, you can just trim off the excess. Obviously be very careful with doing that, you don’t wanna cut yourself. I recommend not cutting it
too close to the actual tyre, for obvious reasons, don’t
wanna make it any worse. And there you go. That’s gonna stay in place
and hold pressure, so you can finish your ride, or finish the race. But, it’s not a permanent solution. You can add to this by, afterwards, putting some vulcanising
solution around it on both sides. But, just the nature of the air
pressure inside of the tyre, this will start to push
this out over time, just like this I’m doing from the inside. And you’ll find it actually does come out. So, this is why you need
to repair it properly. And this is what we’re gonna get into now. Okay, so we’ve got the hole
that we’re gonna fix here. Again, I emphasise the point: if it’s on the centre of the
tread, you can still do this but it’s going to be incredibly
hard to get the stitching accurate because of the nobbles
and the other stuff going on This is really focused on
the sidewall of the tyre. You can still patch a
tyre up from the inside and you can glue the
hole from the outside. And it will definitely get you a few more miles out of the tyre. But this sidewall method
is the one that kind of writes us off a tyre, so we’re focus on. Flip your tyre inside out first, then you wanna clean the surfaces of it. Now, this particular tyre
hasn’t been set up tubeless. So, I don’t need to worry
too much about cleaning the gunk off there. But, it’s still like, it’s
not the best surface to be working on. So, I wanna make sure this
is being cleaned up with something that’s gonna evaporate and not effect the adhesive glue on there. (rubbing) So, that’s gonna be just enough to make sure it take on there. Next step, you want some sort
of medium grade emery paper. And you wanna roughen around the patch. Now, you’re doing this so the
vulcanising glue has the best chance of taking and the patch
gets good contact on there. Now, don’t go too crazy,
because if you start exposing the threads of the tyres, the tyre will deteriorate rapidly. So, just enough, literally, just to roughen the surface there. Now, the next step is to
flip it back the other way and start to get sewing. Okay, so first up, you might wonder why I’m going to the hassle of
stitching the slash up on a tyre, when you could just patch it from the inside and just get on with it. But, the thing is, just
’cause the nature of the tyres are made, the slash will grow. So, what you’re doing, it doesn’t have to be a super neat job. And if I was to be fair, I’d get someone who’s good at stitching
to do it, not myself. But, you just need to basically
cover up that slash on there just enough so it won’t grow anymore. If you’re doing this with
fishing wire or anything else, you’re gonna still have the
same problems, ’cause the tyre carcass itself is quite tough. But I promise you it’s worth persevering with this. Now, you can really go to town on this. I’m doing three basic
stitch, then will do across to go over and to make sure
that they can’t go anywhere. Now, I’m gonna tie it off
after that and hopefully, that will be my stitching
part of this process done. And as I mentioned earlier,
I’m gonna cover the stitches externally in another step
later on just so make sure they don’t come undone and the
stitches themselves won’t rot. Alright, let’s just tie a knot in this. And, I’m happy that that is gonna hold. Despite it not looking like the best work, if there’s any surgeons out
there, you’d probably be absolutely disgusted with this. But, it’s a tyre so, I don’t really care. Knot in that. Great. So, that is the tyre
stitched from the outside. Purpose of that is to stop
that slash growing anymore. So, obviously it’s no
longer tubeless compatible. But, we’re gonna remedy that
from the inside out now. So, now I’ve successfully
stitched the slash in the tyre up. So, now the job to do, is
to patch it from the inside. So, this seals it completely. So, you wanna do this whether
it’s set up tubeless or you just planning on running inner tubes. Because obviously make sure
the tyre is water proof as well Of course, in this case, I
wanna set up tubeless again. So, I’m gonna do the best effort to make a really, really good job on this. Now, I’ve already roughened
up the inside here. So the next job is to put some of this industrial vulcanising solution on there. Now, when cutting this stuff, I think the best technique is
to not leave any square edges. To make rounded edges ’cause
they’re less likely to lift. This is a fiddley thing to do because of the size and
the shape of you tyre. But you need to try and get
it into a position where it’s not gonna move around too much and your patch can take on there. Hoping that this is gonna
be tacky enough now. And the patch is going to take on there. Now, it does take a while. You need to make sure
your patch stays put. Now, what I like to do is
just put a little bit of baking parchment just
around the edges here. Put a couple of clamps on
it just to hold it in place. Then, I wanna leave it
for as long as possible to make sure it’s completely taken. As you can see, it’s already
just sticking nicely into place here and then later, I will
go around the edges as well. Make sure they’re firmly stuck down. Now, as you can see it is a waiting game. This is where you have to
be patient, otherwise it simply will not take. Remember that the inside of
your tyre is very different to inner tubes and of course,
the insides of tyres are very different as well,
so it’s really important that you give it enough time to take. This is pretty good, but
it’s still very tacky. So, it needs probably another hour or so just to really take to the tyre. Now, what you can do is
put a little bit more vulcanising solution around
the outside of the patch when you know it’s going to stay in place. At this stage, you wanna make
sure you don’t flip the tyre inside out to do the outside repair. You need to wait until this is
fully set, because otherwise as soon as you turn it inside
out, there’s a chance you’re gonna wrinkle it up around the edges and it’ll start unpeeling. So the tyre is patched successfully patched on the inside here now. It’s still a tiny bit
tacky ’round the outside. But, the patch is absolutely
rock solid around the edges and it’s stuck quite well here
over the stitching itself, so I’m happy with that. So, the next stage is to put some glue on the outside of the tyre now. Now, this is where I
like to use Shoe Glue. Because of the nature of
how this was designed for skateboarding to patch up shoes for the sort of abrasion and that. It’s a similar sort of concept
and it’s very flexible. So, once this is set, it
will provide a nice barrier on the outside of the tyre as well. Now, when reinstalling to
your bike, take into account whether it’s tubeless or not. If you’re running with an
inner tube, if this is still tacky, then you wanna
put some talcum powder or some chalk on the inside
here just to stop your inner tube sticking to it. Because if that happens, just
with movement on the bike, the tube can tear and obviously the tube can remove that patch. You want a patch to be a
permanent fix and stay on there, so just take that into account. So, the final part of this
repair, and this is an essential part is just to cover up the outside. I like to do this because
tyres are subject to abrasion when you’re riding. If you snag those threads,
they can come undone and just effect the job that you’ve done. But also, you want to make
sure it’s water proof and fully sealed and this stuff is just
going to help add an extra dimension to that. So, I’m just gonna pierce that. Put the lid in there. Snip some this off. And get some on. Now this stuff, I can’t
emphasise how sticky this is. So, you just wanna get a
small little layer on there and they provide a spatula just
so you can just get it into the place that you want. Now, you can go to town on
this because it is flexible, so it’s going to be fine if
there’s too much in place. The idea is that it just
protects the job that you’ve done and makes a barrier on the
outside of the tyre there. There you go. You gotta bare in mind that
it’s pretty toxic stuff, so try and use this in a
well ventilated area. Not the nicest stuff to work with. Now, quite simply, I have
to leave that to dry now. So, I’ll leave that for a
couple of hours and then this is good to put back on my bike and reinflate. So there you have it, that
is how you repair a sidewall slash or slash in the carcass of the tyre. I have successfully
stitched up and repaired a tubeless tyre here and this is ready, once it’s dry, to go back on my bike. And that tyre will be
fine a few more months, get some good use out of
it, saves a bit of money, better for the environment,
all of that sort of stuff. Now of course you might not be so lucky, it might be straight across
the main centre of the tyre. And you can stitch this,
but there’s more likelihood that it’s gonna come open
again at a later date. Now, it’s up to you if you
think you can actually do this job on your tyre, but this is how you do it
and hopefully it’s gonna be useful for you to replicate
this at home at some point. Now, for a couple more useful
videos, if you wanna find out how to jump in 30 minutes,
click right down here, it’s a really good video for all that. Teaches you everything you
need to know to get airborne in just 30 minutes. Now, if you wanna find out my
ultimate mountain bike spares, these are what I call
spare parts I leave sort of bits and pieces that you
wanna be keeping inside your regular tool kit, click right down here. And of course, as always, click
on the globe to subscribe. And if you like this video
and you found it helpful, give us a thumbs up.

83 thoughts on “How To Repair A Cut In A Tyre | MTB Maintenance

  1. Nice.
    Mine was a little more renagade with dental floss and goop garden glue ( same stuff but the garden type is UV stable ) you can also get these in much smaller tubes off Ebay which stops a whole tube of expensive stuff going solid.
    It's done a couple hundred trail miles since and other than the outer layer of glue looking a bit scruffed it's fine.
    Annoyingly that was my 2nd day out on the new bike.
    I recently got new tyres for winter and put a scuff on the front on the first day of that too!

  2. HI Doddy, today I started to tighten up my spokes because they were abit loose I tightened them up the hole way round and then squeezed each one together to see if they were tight enough and they were, should I have used a different method because I don’t think they are eavinly tightened even thow they are straight.

  3. Hey I’m trying to bed in new brakes and I watched the video you guys made a while ago but then I watched another video by Arts cyclery and they were different the gmbn one Neil kept stopping abruptly but the other video said you should do that so I’m confused on what I’m gonna need to do

  4. Great video Doddy my question is their a way of protecting my gear cable where it comes out from the rear mech that little tail bit , twice now I must have snagged it and lost the end cap and the cable starts to untwist itself I run a sram set up I've noticed shimano have a more protected set up with the cable. Cheers 🍻. 👀

  5. Hi, love the show, keep up the good work! one suggestion – because of the shape of the tire ( that it is concave, when adding the patch, you should keep the tire in it's natural shape, as if you keep it inside out, when you put it back surface the patch needs to cover becomes smaller and thus the patch can curl and break away. the patch is resistant to stretching but not to curling, at least if you want to be safe with it. Cheers!

  6. Hey Doddy great show and channel 👌🏼
    11:40 wouldn't it be better to put the rubber on the glue with the tire in the right way around because you stretch the tire and the rubber the other way around ? 😬

  7. I have 2 'bacon' plugs in my tires, the first put in un June and the second around September, so I'd definitely consider them a long term solution. They are now perfectly vulcanized and integrated in the tire

  8. Dodd can you let us all know how much all the bits are to do this repair? As I work in the tyre word & the stuff is not cheep & may be better buying a new tyre if you can get them in a deal or cheep.

  9. @Gmbntech doddy a little tip I learnt from nearly 20 years driving and those patch bungs as I've used them on a car tyre and it was perfectly fine for about 9 months was to twist the insertion tool 720 degrees before pulling it out, it causes a big blob of bung on back side that's about 4x the thickness of the bung material making it vertically impossible to be pushed out the hole unless it's a big ass hole

  10. To day I had to set up ,y new wheel tubeless. Now I have set wheels up tubeless before but normally it costs me my sanity but today was different it actually was the easiest to set up no leeks at the valve or nothing.

  11. I had a hole in my tyre and fixed it in a similar way however i didn't use any thread. Worked well and i used some super glue on the outside of the tyre to help seal up the hole while the patch and rubber cement did the bulk of the work on the inside. Now i'm back up and running tubeless.

  12. Why not take it to a car tyre garage and vulkanize it both sides after cleaning and prepping it yourself? Vulkanising would probably render stitching unnecessary too.

  13. I has happened to me during a trail once. The tire was cut on 10mm. I've just sand a big area around the cut inside the tire(around 30mm radius). An old piece on inner tube made me a patch of the same size but a little bit smaller (that is important for the adherence, you must not glue on an non-sand surface or the patch will go off). I have sanded it to and glued everything with regular patch's glue. After more than a year it is still ok, nothing has moved 😉

  14. Always use gloves when doing these things. Keeps your hands clean and prevents sweat and oil from your hands to get back on the cleaned area.

  15. Brilliant! I have a few tires that ive been trying to fix with plugs but i never thought of stitching the tire! Thanks Doddy!

  16. Used to ride without a toolkit and tube. One day I got a flat and had to take a 100 Euro taxi ride back home. Always carry a toolkit and tube now…

  17. +100 for Shoe Goo! I use it all the time to fix the holes in the soles of my FiveTens. You can probably double or triple the lifetime of you shoes with that stuff.It smells really toxic though, so yeah, do it with an open window.

  18. With cold vulcanising you should wait for the glue solvent to evaporate before applying the patch. The glue should be almost dry to the touch before applying the patch. Then the patch will instantly fuse to the tube/tyre.

  19. As an er doc I will tell you I have done much much worse on getting it straight and even because in the long run it doent matter how well it is stitched, skin will scar however it will.

  20. Awesome stuff, especially for the enthusiast riders that don't need to be replacing equipment because something happens on a ride.

    I think I would like to see it through to the end result, meaning mounted on a wheel and set up tubeless.

  21. Hey Doddy, great video! Sewing up a slash had never occurred to me before, great idea. I had re occurring issues with my old rims (mavic 427 set up tubeless) cutting into the side wall just above the bead under heavy impacts/forces, I realised it was because the edge of the rim was so narrow and sharp almost like a blade. However, I did manage to repair the tyre 3 times with a small patch of old inner tube stuck to the inside using quick setting gorilla glue, it has lasted 6 months so far and even been fitted onto a new wheel and no issues so far!

  22. I use a simpler way. I just put the plug and stitch it to the tire. Holds well for many months. I even can be done on trail and keep tubeless.

  23. How about mushroom patches? Do these work ?https://www.google.com/search?q=mushroom+tyre+patch&client=firefox-b-ab&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiFoJexjaDZAhUPzFMKHfebCl8QsAQIJg&biw=1680&bih=927

  24. Can you give Doddy a pair of old bad scissors or tools and record him getting really angry? Would love to see that (from the safe distance behind my screen) #askgmbn

  25. I would let the patch cure with the tire not turned inside out like you did. Try and put the tire in its natural position for curing, then the patch is less likely to "ripple" and delaminate when used under biking conditions.

  26. I am probably going to do this because I ripped my tire on tree stump and there is pretty big crack/slash

  27. Doddy My Boy! Awesome Job! Excellent video! I did try to improve on this repair by using "Kevlar" thread. Its UV resistant and has a high tensile strength. I got mine at "Tandy Leather Factory".

  28. I tore my sidewall today manualing over a root/rocky section…had to throw a tube in and while riding home I thought " didnt doddy do a sidewall repair video….." hell ya he did…. thanks doddy! Top shelf bud!!

  29. Would it be ideal to use a large clamp that could cover the whole patch, if a large enough clamp is available?

  30. Absolute legend Doddy, I thought my brand new tyre was written off and nearly threw it out yesterday. Definitely going to try this after I move house next week. Cheeers ears.

  31. Good video but my results very not so good. Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700×38 commuter tire, 6 mm slash in sidewall. Stitched with fishing line and installed a patch on the inside. I run tubes at 60 to 80 psi and the slash area has a noticeable bulge. Of course the tube is not coming through the patch, but it makes me nervous.

  32. Do you think Shoe Goo would work on the inside and for tube putting patches on a tube? Im curious because im building a bikepacking repair kit and prefer to carry as little as possible.

  33. Saved me some money for sure since plus tires are not cheap. Bought the bike this year & the tire only had about 25 rides, so lots of tread left. Thanks!

  34. What if you put a inner tube bike patch inside the tire as it was a inner tube and then fill it with the tubeless solution?

  35. Great video! I used this solution to repair a new Schwalbe Jumbo Jim 4.8 fat tyre. It worked a treat and has lasted a full day of dry dusty downhill trails at Cademuir. The glue coating protecting the stitches hardly appears to have worn at all. Thanks

  36. As road bikes are using tubeless tires more often, I found I may need to use this very soon on a gp5000TL I've been riding on. Great tires, just unfortunate enough to have a small sidewall cut.

    Great video and guide and hopefully this works.

  37. Two thumbs up!! My LBS throws away perfectly fine tires with only a small gash in the sidewall all the time. I recommend that you let the Sho Goo dry at least 24 hrs. before using (as per the manufacturing instructions).

  38. Great video. Most of my plugs have held over the years but I've had couple of sidewall punctures where the plug (large ones) have decided to leak and splutter at random! I will be practicing my needlework skills very soon.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *