75 thoughts on “How to Repair a Fiberglass Hole, Waterproof (in Bathtube)

  1. All you had to do was remove the tub and flip it up on its side 😉
    That was a good attempt. As ugly as it may look, if it sealed, that's all that counts. The price of the repair kit sure beats buying a new tub.
    The only suggestion I would have, which is something you probably thought of, would be to wait until the product started hardening up, then start applying it, but your timing has to be just right for that.

  2. What I would recommend, is to cut out the damaged part with a dremel (or similar) cutting tool, use a power sander (or even maybe an angle grinder) to remove some material, at least through the gel coat. Insert a support block of some kind in the hole – this will serve as "formwork" for the new patch. Then build up with several layers of cloth. Then sand over a much larger area and use some filler (ino americans like to call it bondo) over it. Paint with gelcoat or epoxy – whatever fits…

    If done right, this should be close to or even 100% flush to the surrounding surface. You don't need access to the back of the panels to do this.

    Bur of course, this is a way more complicated operation than this video aims for :), so if it does the job, nice.

    It's generally a bad idea to not sand through to the fiberglass imo because you never know if u missed something. Damage may be larger than you see on the surface.

    But to be able to fix fiberglass panels on site is a good thing 🙂 hehe. I have a large tub in my 2nd floor. I ordered it, went to the store and picked it up on my trailer, unpacked it, and got it into my hall where the stairs is. This is an old house, not very big space where I needed to get it up to the 2nd floor. And I quickly realized it didn't fit. So here I was – with an expensive tub, unpacked, I had taken off a lot of hardware from it to minimize the size, and it didn't even go further than the bottom of the stairs before I couldn't drag it along any longer. :). A little desperate I quickly realized it was not an option to go back to the store with it – as it was unpacked and I had picked parts of it.

    So I eneded up taking off the railing on the staircase (a pretty big operation for my stairs (and top that with having to make new railing afterwards). Then I got it upstairs – if it was a hair bigger, it would not go up there – and I would take out the stairs too hehe – I was willing to do anything to get it up there. But one thing is sure – I will NEVER get it down from there, coz I'm not builing new railings one more time hehehe. So if it ever cracks, I WILL have to repair it on site :).

  3. why would you post a video of you fucking up? You use j&b plastic weld. It a putty and it won't run. then you paint it with epoxy chip repair paint. both found at lowes or home depot. http://www.lowes.com/pd_556899-81288-8237_0__?productId=50149638 and http://www.lowes.com/pd_173735-1168-2164___?productId=3166091&pl=1&Ntt=porcelain+chip+repair

  4. Thanks for taking the time to post. There are always morons who have to "armchair" everything someone does. My two cents would be to consider sanding the area out @ least 2 inches in all directions for a little better repair coverage, and then masking tape off the areas surrounding the area you don't want resin run-off. Give repair 4-5 days to completely cure, and CAREFULLY sand with a pneumatic automotive sander, then remove the tape (you may need to use several different sandpaper grits to fine tune your repair). Things should blend in better if sanded very carefully then by using a rubber hand sanding block if needed. Once again, thanks for taking the time to share your repair.

  5. There's a better repair kit available at Home Depot. They sell it in the plumbing department. I did a video on using it. Been doing fiberglass repair on tubs for 20 years.


  6. You had me going there for a while…
    I've seen this done and they put a semi rigid clear plastic patch over the whole repair and you sort of squeegee it flat. Once dry, you remove the plastic and lightly sand.

  7. " Wow! a "Bathtube"! I picture a large diameter tube rather than a "BathTUB" with a ladder to get down into it? "Bathtube"….hmmm

  8. btw the I believe the best STRONGEST epoxy gives you LOTS of time to work! half hour even no problem…5 minute epoxy I would NEVER use on anything I care about other than ornamental stuff…

  9. I know you meant well….but that looked like crap…sorry…i’d rather had the hole….lol….not really…at least it probably didn’t leak…

  10. Thanks for the video Mike my hole is in the bottom so I don't anticipate the patch moving at all your idea pointed me in the right direction to fix the hole….

  11. A total pigs ear of a fix. Where was the masking tape? If you put masking tape arounf the hole, the mess you made would be much easier to rectify!

  12. Thank you. This is the best tub fix it video I've found. And I've been browsing for one that fit my situation. Cheers!🍻

  13. You gotta break the piece out and then put in back in the hole with some tongue depressors behind it. When the piece is glued back in, then you may put the patch over the hole. It won't work if you don't break the piece out, or something like that.

  14. How long does this last? I need something for the sagging and small hole in my RV bathtub about the size of 5inch by 5 inch- until I can replace the entire tub. I am 5"2 and weigh 115 lbs and can avoid standing on the damaged area so that it doesnt get worse but, my husband is 200 lb and cant avoid it and now there is a very small hole in the middle as to where the water is leaking underneath that area now im really concerned about mildew growing under neath there,this is how i found your video for help. Is this something that will work for this size and how long will it last? taking showers on it everyday? Thanks for any advice from anyone!

  15. well first I would have cut a circle instead of a rectangle then i would have taken the circle and put it in the mixture cot it coated then placed it over the hole.. then continued to cover the hole in tube

  16. Wax paper smoothed out make a good finish with less sanding. Use a plastic or wood roller to smooth out .

  17. you yourself should have watched some videos on how to work with fiberglass before you did that repair I hope that wasn't a customer of yours

  18. Good work other than the dripping of material. what I would recommend to avoid it would be to let the epoxy dry just a bit before applying it to surface.

  19. My thoughts are there is a better product for our Gel Coat tub we bought called "GCP Tub & Shower Repair Kit". It uses a Gel-Coat Putty. Blue. & yellow box. GCP stands for Gel Coat Products. Fiberglass tubs are made with a Gel Coat. The contents of the GCP kit are Gel-Coat Putty, Hardener, Applicator Stick, #400 & #600 grit Sandpaper & Polishing Compound. The product in this vid simply seems to be 5-minute Epoxy, similar if not same product we used for building Remote Controlled aircraft. Problems with Epoxy is evident (runs) & it breaks down over time with moisture. Also I know 1st hand 5-minute Epoxy if not mixed correctly is faulty from the get-go. Was crazy to watch gravity cause the Epoxy to run on this vid. 2 hacks that came to mind if you're bent on Epoxy -you can spray the back of the fiberg cloth with Elmers Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive. Hopefully that should keep it in place. For the gravity-running problem you can build a 'catch-it dam' to catch the runoff, using tape & perhaps a u-channel piece of plastic (anything to make a 90° dam), U see where I'm going with this.

  20. Not a bad job, this job is a job of patience, its like cooking a home cooked meal, you cant leave the scene, you have to multitask and get back to priorities. I would recommend using cardboard or wax paper and duck tape from the top side and bottom side to prevent the leakage. Better yet, use 4 pieces of cardboard box to contain the area of the whole, (NSEW) then remove them before sanding. Then put the waxpaper over the fiber glass and use a wooden roller to get a smooth repair. I also recommend using 2 to 2 1/2 sheets of fiberglass to ensure that the repair is balanced. The key to this entire repair is using a good amount of fiberglass epoxy, but not using so much that you'll sand for an hour by hand or 25 minutes with tools. Simply put, you gotta eyeball it every 5 to 10 minutes for at least an hour.

  21. could you have covered the patch with clear plastic packaging tape to hold everything in place? Make sure the tape adheres to the area below the patch and push everything up as you adhere the tape.

  22. I am looking for a porcelain and fiberglass repair company which can provide great work at an affordable cost. Can someone please help?

  23. Your fiberglass patch was way too small. you should have at least had 1"-2"overhang around the hole. Then you could have filled the hole and feathered it out.

  24. Thumbs down. This is not a hole. It's just a crack or crater. It has a foundation for the epoxy. How do you fix a hole?

  25. Dude you suck use a putty knife, drywall knife or bondo knife get it flat do not leave lumps or runs keep working until hard to the touch much less sanding

  26. Wax paper to smooth, 600 grit wet sand, then use a small buffer and rubbing compound to feather it in to the rest of the tub.

  27. It doesn't look any better on a flat surface. I suppose for sealing purposes it works, but looks awful! I tried it on a sink top and it looks awful. The chips in the top looked better than the repair. Wish I had left it alone.

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