How To Replace Rotten Weatherboards – DIY At Bunnings

How To Replace Rotten Weatherboards – DIY At Bunnings


I’m going to show you how to replace a damaged
weatherboard. Now, for this project we’ll need a pinch bar, hammer and chisel, some
nails, a pencil, a stud finder, set square, drill, circular saw, and some safety equipment,
goggles, earmuffs, and gloves. We’ll need a tape measure and we’ll need a pop rivet
gun, in this case, because we’re going to be removing a window frame to get access to
repair the weatherboard. And, of course, we’ll also need our weatherboards and two sawhorses. Because any part of the weatherboard is damaged,
we’re not going to replace the whole span, we’re just going to cut out the damaged part
and replace that with a new one. The first step is to remove the window frame,
and for this, I’m going to drill out the pop rivets that are currently in there. I”m going
to use this small step ladder, so that I can reach the pop rivets that are high up on the
window frame. Now I’ve removed all the pop rivets, it’s
time to take off the window frame. I’m going to use a pair of gloves because sometimes
you can have sharp edges. These are my two rotten weatherboards that we’re going to replace.
All I need to do now is locate the stud to provide a position to join the new weatherboard. And I’ve now marked the center of the stud
for which we will be making the first cut. Having established the position of the first
stud, I want to move along to the next stud below for the second weatherboard just to
stagger the joint. Now I’m going to draw a straight line with my set square to mark the
cut. And again for the second board. After this, all we need to do is cut the damaged
weatherboard. To do this, we’ll need to measure the thinnest part of the weatherboard and
the thickest, to simulate the way our weatherboards overlap. And the distance there is 25 mm,
which is the depth I will be setting our saw too. To make this first cut, we’ll be following
the marked line and also cutting slightly into the weatherboard above, which we’ll later
fill. The next step is to remove the damaged weatherboard.
I’m going to use a hammer, a chisel, and a pinch bar. And don’t forget your safety equipment.
Firstly I”m going to use the chisel, just to try and pry the edges of the board. And
with my pinch bar, I’m going to remove the board. We’ve revealed an electrical cable,
which highlights why it’s so important to ensure the depth of your cut is correct. Our
stud finder has located an angle brace instead of our stud. This is an easy fix. All I have
to do is measure from the inside of the stud to the edge of the weatherboard and then add
25 mm, which is half the distance of the width of the stud, and then make a new cut. And there you can see, we are perfectly centered
on the stud. Because of the position of this stud being so close to the drain pipe, I’m
going to have to remove the clips and move the pipe so that I’ve got clear access for
my cut. So with the damaged weatherboards now removed,
all I need to do is measure up for the new boards. All we need to do is measure a straight
line and cut them. Just going to use the set square again to make sure it’s an even and
straight cut. So now we’ve cut both boards, it’s just time
to nail them off. I’m just going to check that these fit before I start nailing them
in. Oh, that’s perfect. And so is that one. OK, so to nail off the replacement weatherboard,
we need to pre-drill, so we don’t split our timber, into the studs at just above the weatherboard
below. With the weatherboard in place and the studs visible, I can mark 35 mm up from
the bottom edge of the weatherboard ready to nail off. And then I’ll pre-drill and do
the same again on the other stud. Now it’s ready to nail in. That’s the first weatherboard in place, and
all we do is exactly the same for the second. So I’ll just make sure it’s lined up, mark
where I’m going to pre-drill, and go through the same process again. And that’s it! That’s how you replace a rotten
weatherboard.

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