How to Tile a Kitchen Backsplash

How to Tile a Kitchen Backsplash


Give your kitchen a fresh look with a tile
backsplash. Lowe’s has lots of tile to choose from, including mosaics on mesh backing, which
makes the installation easier. Quick tip: a tile backsplash in your kitchen
can go right over drywall since kitchens are not considered wet areas, like a shower. Begin with a little prep: turn off the power,
and remove the outlet covers. Tape off the outlets, cabinets, and countertops.
Move your appliances and attach a temporary ledgerboard where the backsplash ends.
You may have to tuck the outlets into the boxes. Your walls should be clean—a quick wipe-down
with TSP and water is a good idea. And glossy surfaces will need to be sanded or deglossed. Also, check that the wall is relatively flat.
Apply joint compound to any dents, dips, or ripples deeper than 1/16-inch. Let it dry,
sand smooth, and prime. When the prep’s complete, plan your layout.
Tile backsplashes need a 1/8-inch expansion gap around the perimeter, and some patterns
look best when centered, either in the work area or behind a focal point, like the stove
or faucet. Find your center and mark a vertical line.
Using this reference line as a starting point, dry lay the tiles along the wall and check
the ends. If the cut tiles will be too thin, you can adjust the layout to get wider pieces
at the sides. Check the vertical layout too.
Cut tiles are best hidden under cabinets, but you might also have to cut a little off
the bottom row if your countertop isn’t level. Here’s how you know how much to cut
off. Use a level to find the lowest point on the counter. Hold a tile at this spot–accounting
for 1/8-inch expansion at the bottom–and mark the top. Now use a level to extend this
line along the work area. This line will be your guide when cutting tile to fit along
the counter. To see where the tile will end up at the top
of the installation, make a jury stick. Mark a straight board using the tiles and spacers
in the vertical layout. Hold it up to the wall to check. If you’ll have tiny slivers
of tile at the top, move the layout down a little bit, and adjust your reference line. When your layout looks good, you’re ready
to install. Mix thinset following the directions. It should be similar to the consistency of
peanut butter. White thinset is best for glass tile since it might show through. Spread a
little bit on the wall and don’t cover your reference lines. Comb over the mortar with
a notched trowel. Grab the first piece of tile and press it
onto the wall with a little twist. Gently press against it with a rubber float.
If you need to make a cut to the second piece, mark the tile, and cut it with a wet-saw–mesh-side
up. Be careful with the sharp edges. Use nippers for small cuts. Apply the next piece the same way, and use
spacers if needed. Keep installing the tiles working in small
sections and make sure to check level frequently. Remember to leave 1/8-inch gap at the countertop. Let the thinset dry for 24 hours.
Another installation option is to use adhesive mats instead of thinset. Just press, peel,
and stick. Then it’s on to the grout. Mix the grout
according to the directions, usually a cake batter-like consistency. Using a rubber float,
apply it diagonally across the tiles, pressing it into the joints. After ten minutes, wipe
away the excess with a wet sponge. Be careful not to wipe the grout from the joints. A haze
might form, but it will come off with a haze remover. Before following up with a grout sealer, allow
the grout to dry according to your specific sealer’s instructions. Remove the masking, and fill the expansion
gaps with caulk or silicone sealant. And add box extenders to outlets and switches. And the installation is finished. A little
bit of tile can add a lot of style. Want more great ideas and how-to’s? Go to
Lowes.com/HowTo or just click to subscribe. Next, learn how to install a new faucet.

31 thoughts on “How to Tile a Kitchen Backsplash

  1. 4:52. I used to apply caulk that way, freestyle, but I find it more helpful to run blue painter's tape (such as by 3M) on each side of the caulk bead first — 1/8 inch or so away from the joint on each side — as a mask, before I run the caulk bead. Then I run my fingertip over the entire bead to form a perfect straight and even bead. Beads come out perfectly every time. Really looks more professional when your bead is in a very visible area.
    Just remember to remove the blue tape fairly soon — before the caulk skins over.

  2. no se puede hacer algo con lo que no se puede hacer algo con lo que no me gusta mucho el tema es que Friday te lo envío a la que te encuentres bien de precio en Zaragoza zona de navegación de los

  3. I am planning on also replacing the counter top. Would it be better to replace it AFTER I tiled the backsplash? That way the backsplash would be easier to put in (I think) and the counter top could butt right up against the backsplash. I've never done this before.

  4. I wouldn't use Lowes for anything, especially custom ordered countertops. It's been five months since my brother in law and his wife ordered countertops and they still aren't here. The sad thing is that the countertops are made in the same county of which they live! Too many excuses and order coming in wrong, and I would never order from there. You are better off finding an independent reliable contractor to do your work.

  5. What if I use the adhesive to stick tiles to the walls, would that hold the tile and do I still have to use tile grout on the tile.

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