How to Waterproof a Shower (Hydro Ban Board) — by Home Repair Tutor

How to Waterproof a Shower (Hydro Ban Board) — by Home Repair Tutor

Today we’re going to show you how to waterproof
a shower using HYDRO BAN Board. This is great because: number one, it’s super light. This
is a 3 ft by 5 ft by ½ inch thick piece of HYDRO BAN Board. The foam core is completely
waterproof. So if you accidentally pierce the fleece, you don’t go the whole way through,
the board is going to remain waterproof. You just need three things to waterproof a shower
surround: you need the boards; you need the ceramic coated screws; and, you need the HYDRO
BAN sealant. That is it. Obviously you need some basic tools, but we’ll share this with
you in today’s video, and we’re also going to show you how to create a custom shower
niche, which is the full width of the back wall, in this tub/shower combo.
When you put backer board up on a tub with a flange, you can’t just put it down over
top of this flange because it’’ bellow out the board. So everything has to be flat
against the studs because the bellowing out part is going to be a problem when you tile.
You’ll see everything nice and straight here, and you’ll see it kind of curb out.
And it’ll make everything a nightmare as far as tiling. You really need a flat, straight
substrate all the way down to the tub. So two ways you can do it: you can sit the board
just sitting on top of the flange and then fill in the area below; or you can fur out
the wall out a quarter inch so that board can slide straight down onto the tub. So we’re
going to do a mixture of the both on this situation. Our walls already have half inch
drywall up, so we’re kind of dictated to that thickness. So we’re not going to be
able to fur this out and allow that to go over the tub. We’re just going to have to
keep it above the tub deck and fill in that void. But on the back wall, it’d be real
easy just to add some furring strips to this and then allow that backer board to go on.
And basically what I’m going to be using is just a piece of plywood that I ripped down
two inches. I find it the most economical to buy something like this. It’s quarter
inch plywood; it’s probably $20-$25 a sheet. You rip it down and have plenty of furring
strips. Okay, so we’re just going to put this right
over our framing. As you can see, we have an interesting layout for a niche. We’re
just going to go from wall to wall. The way we’re able to do this is that this is a
basement, and none of this framing is load bearing at all. So keep in mind to do something
like this, it’s really going to require a non-load bearing wall to be able to create
a niche like this. I’m not saying you can’t do it otherwise; you’ll just have a lot
more framing and a header to support everything. So this interesting tile niche can’t really
be done. Especially if it’s an exterior wall, it just can’t be done, you know. It’s
not going to be a good idea to have a niche on that back wall.
But basically just putting these furring strips even with my boards. And I’m just going
to use a roofing nailer. You can obviously just screw everything together.
So again, we just added the ¼ inch plywood to all the studs on this main shower wall.
That allowed us to drop the first piece of HYDRO BAN Board over top of the tub flange.
So I’m just going to cut this down to twenty-two and a half. Allow this to extend over the
niche a little bit, and then I’ll cut those even with those studs.
So we just snapped a chalk line here to get our measurement for this first board and simply
used a utility knife to cut through the HYDRO BAN Board. It’s really, really easy to cut
and work with. So we have to do a little bit of a notch for
this flange just to get this to slide down. You want to put a bead of this Laticrete seal
against the tub deck so it helps secure the board but also make it waterproof.
Maximum stud spacing should be 16 inches on center, and the maximum screw spacing is 12
inches on center. Now, we used the 1-5/8” Laticrete screws for this project and counter-sunk
the screw heads so that they were flush with the top of the boards. And then we used our
Fein multi-tool to cut down the HYDRO Board and make it flush with our shower niche framing.
This really helped out quite a bit. And we just got our second measurement for the top
board, and then we were able to cut that down to size using a utility knife. You can see
how easy it is to use these boards for our custom shower.
One nice thing about this foam board is that it’s very easy to scribe cut and to get
it into place compared to a cement board. For the top board, we use the screws every
12 inches, and note you don’t need any kind of washer for the wall panels. So again, we
just used a utility knife to cut the back side of this HYDRO BAN Board, and then the
front side too. And then we’re going to be using our Fein multi-tool to cut this down
and to shape it and make it look good. Now, the cool thing about HYDRO BAN Board is you
can also use it to form the niche. It always makes sense to do the bottom first,
kind of like flashing the window. And you want to just make sure that this is sloping
towards the shower. You don’t want to have this leaning in because obviously a lot water
can just sit here on this wall. We’re about level, so what I’m going to do is add a
little bit of sealant underneath the back edge of this so that I can pitch this. You
can also use thinset if you have thinset mixed up.
So you want to go on your top front edge first. And I’m just going to put a bead back here
just to help give a little bit of slope to it.
So it’s really important that when you use the HYDRO BAN Board in the shower niche, you
compress it up against the sealant. Then you use the screws to attach to the wood stud.
We’ll be waterproofing those screws later. Like I said, you don’t need a lot. Just
make sure that that bubble’s on the back side of the niche all the way along. As you
could see, I’d say that’s probably about a quarter inch fall there. So just the last
thing you want to do is have your waterproofing sloping towards the back wall. That will be
kind of a nightmare in this situation. And again, here we’re using our Fein multi-tool
to cut out the HYDRO BAN Board and to shape it and make it nice and flush with the board
that’s below the niche. And then we’ll get our measurement for the back wall, cutting
that to size using the chalk line and utility knife. Then we’re going to place that along
the back wall using the sealant. So since this is a drywall wall, I obviously
can’t get any screws into this or I’ll be poking outside of my wall. So we’re basically
going to be just sealing this whole thing with the Latasil sealant, and that’s basically
how it’s going to be adhered along with the side boards holding it in place.
Use plenty of sealant if you’re building a similar niche, and then compress the board
into that because you want the board to be nice and plumb. And any sealant that oozes
out, smooth it using a putty knife. Here we’re applying more sealant to the top of that board
and to the bottom of the top board, and then we’re going to place our piece over top
of all that sealant and screw it in place. You can see how fast it is to build a custom
shower niche using HYDRO BAN Board. So in this one, it’s going to be a little
unusual because of the way our niche is, but I want to have this board slide into the niche.
So we’re going to measure from the niche over to our wall here. So we got 33 ¼ and
scribe cut that. My drywall’s a little bit uneven. We’re putting this board right on
top of that tub flange, so we’ll go 20 3/8 and 31 ¼. This is going to go into our niche.
Three and 7/8. We can just chalk this all the way down, and then we cut out these sections.
And we’ll measure over to our spout. So 14 ¼. And off our flange, which is only about
an inch and 7/8. I’m just going to use a spade bit for that hole. So that gets our
spot for our Moen valve. You don’t want to have anything bigger than 4 ½ inches,
so we’re just going to use a 4 ½ inch bore bit. But you could cut this out with a utility
knife if you wanted to. Before we set this in place, pull this back
out and get our sealant. In this case, you want to have a good amount in the corner,
and then I try to go on top of this flange as well. It’s not a bad idea to try to seal
it to the top here. Definitely in the niche. Around. And basically in the corner. Okay,
now we can scribe cut against our drywall here.
We applied sealant to the bottom of this board because it’s much easier than applying it
to the top of the other one. As you can see, we’re applying plenty of
sealant to the edge of the board and inside the shower niche. So we’re doing this for
the top board as well. And along the tub lip for this tub/shower combo. That way when you
add the board, you’re going to be sealing it to the sealant.
You just want to make sure this is sitting above the flange that’s not bellowing out.
So again, we’re applying sealant to the bottom of this little piece because it’s
much easier than having it to the top of the board and just screwing it in place.
So, we’ll go ahead and address all the seams in the corners. I usually like to start in
the corners just because that used the most of it.
This corner trowel really comes in handy this tub/shower combo—really any shower. If you
can get your hands on one, it’s great. You definitely want to apply copious amounts of
sealant to the corners and use that trowel to spread it.
When you’re using this corner trowel, just pay attention to making everything as tight
as possible. Because once this Laticrete dries, this stuff is really hard stuff. So you’re
just really paying attention to keeping everything smooth and flat in the corners. So we’ll
go ahead and do the niche here, too. Go across our seams.
All HYDRO BAN Board seams have to be sealed with the sealant, including the change of
plane in the shower niche. So you just want to use a putty knife to do that. We’re also
going to be sealing all of the screw heads, but smoothing out the seams is really important.
Anything you have extra, make sure you use every bit of that and go over any screw heads.
You can just apply a dab of sealant over top of the screw heads and just use your putty
knife to fill in any remaining heads that aren’t sealed. This is really easy to do,
and it’s rather quick. Okay, so around this pipe flange, this is
kind of nice. You can just use this and seal all around that pipe. I’d say that one of
a problematic area for waterproofing is this pipe flange. So being able to seal against
there if any water gets behind that tub spout, which it will. Because on a tub spout there
really is no seal that goes against the tile or the wall. The most you could do is silicone,
which looks pretty ugly. So being able to seal around that is going to ensure that that
stay waterproof. So now for the tub flange to fill this area
in, we’re just going to be putting a real generous amount of this, basically filling
this whole area with it. I’ll just use the excess and throw it on this side so I won’t
waste any of this. And I also like to fill in this whole area against the tub; this is
another problematic area. So in filling this whole area against this
tub flange, it’s a good idea to have waterproof material sitting against this tub. When I
have this feathered out pretty much, I’m going to have to like tile this, I’m going
to have to end up drywall mudding over some of this.
You can just fill this area in. The last step was to apply the sealant between
the HYDRO BAN Board and the drywall. This just waterproofs that transition and gives
you a bit more insurance that water won’t ruin the drywall. Now if you’re curious,
this is what the finished project looks like. And if you’re doing a similar shower, HYDRO
BAN Board could definitely be a big help. It only took us a few hours to waterproof
the tub/shower combo in today’s video. We actually started tiling on the same day. So
if you want to speed up your shower building process, HYDRO BAN Board is a great option.
And it’s competitively priced versus the other foam boards that are out there. So make
sure you call your Laticrete dealer to check out the price; I don’t think you’ll be
disappointed. We definitely were not. Now if you’re building a tub/shower combo
in a basement bathroom and you want our checklist, and you want access to the first few modules
of our online course, click right here, add your name and email address when you go over
to our website. We’ll send you the checklist, and you’ll be able to see the first several
modules of our new course, which is awesome. Thanks for watching today’s video. We hope
you got some great tips, and we’ll see you in the next one.

25 thoughts on “How to Waterproof a Shower (Hydro Ban Board) — by Home Repair Tutor

  1. Yet again great content. We are doing the same sort of thing but don’t have the professional video work. Any chance you could get a look and give advice?

  2. Just wondering why the back wall's board was set on the tub but the side boards were set on the flange or did I miss something? Couldn't you have furred them out as well Thanks Chris

  3. I went with Duroc and Redguard on my tub/shower surround. Price was the factor for me. Your videos have been beyond helpful in assisting me with my bathroom basement finishing project. Thank you so much!

  4. I dato out the back of the board where it goes over the tub flange. (With foam boards) so quick and easy! Great video guys!

  5. Looks like a great system. I like the way you guys demonstrate the installation of all these waterproof systems. It seems like installing foam board compared to drywall or cement board would make the install so much easier. Great video.

  6. Awesome video.I have a video aswell on installing this board.

    IMO this is one of the best boards currently on the market!

  7. BTW. Your not suppose to ever install the board over the flange,only down to it.Then fill the gap with LATICRETE sealant

  8. Great video! The magic question…are there any elements to the Hydro Ban system that you like better than the Schluter system? I just finished a bathroom using Schluter, and liked it for the most part, but curious what's good about this system as well. Thank you!

  9. is the recessed light allowed? I thought code prohibits any light fixture or switch that can be "touched" while inside a tub or shower…..

  10. How much are the boards? And where to purchase? Laticrete's website is confusing. Can you provide link? Between Hydro, Kerdi, and Schluter, which is cheapest? Thanks. Great video!

  11. So what is behind that niche wall ?because it looks like you installed another wall in front of it so you could make the niche.

  12. Good video. I'd put the top piece of the niche in first, then back, then bottom, then sides. Use sides and back to hold up top. Nice vid. Thanks

  13. Why not noch the back of the 1/2” board a 1/4” for the tub flange instead of spending all that time to fur out the wall?

  14. when you install the board, is it perfectly flush with the dry wall? my studs are all level but i still see 1/32 bump going from board to dry wall. I was wondering what to do with it. I have not put sealant yet

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