P-Trap Installation Drain Doesn’t Line Up Bathroom Sink Pipe

P-Trap Installation Drain Doesn’t Line Up Bathroom Sink Pipe


– [Jeff] Well hello,
my fellow DIY friends. Take a look at this. What we have here today
is a P-trap under a sink that you’re trying to connect
to the waste line going out to the street, but the
problem is that the waste line is way off to the left. So, how are you gonna get
this P-trap lined up in there? Well, you’re not, that’s the problem. So, today we’re going to show you how to deal with this situation. ♪ It’s alright ♪ ♪ It’s alright ♪ ♪ Too good to be true ♪ ♪ And it’s alright ♪ ♪ And it’s alright ♪ Normally, what happens when
you’re dealing with a sink and a P-trap is you typically
have your waste line coming straight out of the wall directly behind the drain here. But what happens a lot when
you remodel is you end up with a different vanity,
different sink and sometimes the difference in the
horizontal distance can change between where you once were. The sink was over here,
the older sink was directly in front of the drain line here. Now it’s not. Now it’s almost a full foot
over and the problem is is when I put this
P-trap back on here, see? You’re limited to the
horizontal reach of your P-trap. Let’s say the drain line came
out four or five inches over to the left, then we’d be fine. But the problem is you’re
limited by the reach of your P-trap and even
at a Home Depot and Lowe’s they don’t have any
longer P-traps than this that are more horizontal. What you have to do now
is you have to come up with some fittings that we can put here that will make that 45
degree angle for you. Now, the problem here is the
builder left us a very, very short stub out coming out of
the wall there of PVC pipe, so it’s not like we could just
slice through the PVC pipe and throw another trap adapter on there. That’s a one and a half inch
to one and a quarter inch trap adapter there. What we have to try to do is
make a few slices into the body of this thing and try to
break them off the pipe, and if that doesn’t work,
because our goal is to get this piece off of the pipe and put a 45 degree
fitting on there first. See, we wanna have a
piece like this on there, onto the waste pipe. If we can’t get this
cemented on the outside, then I have a plan of what to do here and let me show you what we’re going to– Assuming that we end up having
to use this piece, we wanna make the length of the pipe
knowing that this is gonna slide inside of it and it’s gonna
go all the way in like that. I’ve marked a line here, which represents a little bit past the
point where it ends inside. Okay, and this is the only length of piece that we’ll really need because what’s going to happen
is that this 45 piece here will then cement on the
outside of this side. So, this slip piece here
covers the inside of the pipe and this one here cements onto the outside of the other end of that pipe section. This is where we’re going to cut it. We’re going to use my
little PVC pipe saw here, which is a string. I know most of you think
of saws as being a blade, but in this case, this saw
is a little metal cable. Now, on this side of the pipe here, we put our 45 degree part on there. We have to figure out how
much length we need for it to plug on there and then
for the trap adapter here to go onto the other end
of that piece right there. So, it’ll go pretty much right there. All we need is about an inch in between just to be able to play around with there. Alright, here’s my idea. Assume this is the drain
pipe coming out of the wall, the one and a half inch
PVC pipe from the builder. What I have here is this
is a one and a half inch, this is a flush inside coupling. This will cement inside the pipe. Put this in like that, so
he’ll go all the way in, okay. Then we’ll need to get another piece here to go on this side. So, there’s your extension. This is the builder’s pipe
coming out of the wall, this is my slip piece,
there’s just my little extension there and then
this 45 degree piece will go there on the outside. He’ll cement on the outside of that pipe. So, that’s what I’ve done
now up to this point. Now, we’ll have a 45 degree
angle coming out of the wall, which is what we’re after. Then, we have to take this
other little piece of PVC pipe and again that 45 degree elbow there will cement onto that piece. And then lastly, I can take
my new trap adapter here. This converts one and a half inch pipe to one and a quarter inch,
which is what you need in bathroom vanities. Most of the piping coming out
of the drains of the vanities and the P-traps are
one and a quarter inch. So then, we’ll cement this on here. That’s what it will look
like underneath the sink. Not the most prettiest thing
in the world, but that’s what enables you to get what you need done. This is what we’ll have to
do if we can’t get this piece here to go directly onto the
outside of the builder’s pipe. This is my goal is just a short
little two piece solution. So, if this solution doesn’t
work, we have to go to the one that I just showed you. Okay, here you can see were in luck. I was able to pry that trap
adapter off the waste pipe there by making a few slits in
it with my Dremel tool here and I just pried it off with the pliers, so we were able to get it off. So, now we don’t have to
make that big contraption. All I have to do is cement
this 45 degree angle piece right on there. Okay, I’ve dry fitted the
45 degree elbow on there and I think this is going
to work out nice for us. I got my little piece of
pipe that I’m gonna dry fit in there, just see how it looks. He’ll go there. Trap adapter will then go on
here and you just wanna make sure that when you do this,
you see how this whole thing can twist and go down like that
and it can go up like that? You wanna make sure it’s
probably level, maybe even if you wanna go slightly
declined, that might work, too, but I’m just gonna try
to keep it level for now. This would be a perfect
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like us and any questions you have, please enter them in
the comments down below, too. Okay and lastly, here is the
P-trap in place and you can see once this guy is twisted
more facing this way, he’ll go straight into there. So, it looks like we have a
winning combination right here. Okay, so here it is all still
dry fitted and everything, but I wanted to just review
what we have here now. Back in the back wall, you have
the one and a half inch pipe coming out of the wall from the builder. We stuck on that 45 degree
elbow to change the direction of it and send everything this way aiming right towards the downspout. Then, after the 45 degree piece,
we have the PVC pipe there, so that we can put this
trap adapter onto it. That trap adapter reduces it
from one and a half inches down to one and a quarter inch
that you need for a vanity. And then this whole part
right here is just the P-trap. It’s a little kit that you buy. It’s a couple of bucks for the P-trap. And then this piece here is
actually a six inch extension. So, anytime you buy a new
drain, new sink or whatever, always go and buy a six,
nine or 12 inch extension because you’ll always
end up having to use it. If you just buy this P-trap
and you can see right here where it would fit normally
up on the pipe here. That’s not gonna give you
enough down distance there, vertical distance. So, what you need to do is
you have to get an extension and you cut the extension. You cut it to length
such that it fits right at the bottom here. That’s where it fits in that cutout there. That’s where it ends. It terminates right there. So, you have to cut that
distance such that when you slide the P-trap up against it, it
will be there and perfectly level to go straight into
the center of that pipe. So, it takes a while to
figure it out and what sort of distances you need, but
that’s why you do all of this when it’s a dry fit. Don’t cement in one single
piece in the back there until you’ve got all of this done. This is what your solution
is going to look like here. Alright, so I brought all
my action outside here for a minute because I wanna
cement my three fittings together here to minimize the
amount of cement and possible spillage that I have under
the sink because I will when it’s all done, I
will have to cement this onto that pipe that comes out of the wall. But I always try to put all
my parts together out here where it’s easy to do it. What we do is we use
this purple primer first and you must use the primer on here. It’s against plumbing code in probably just about every city. I can’t tell you how many
idiots I see that just go right for the cement and cement
it without priming it. You have to put the primer
in there, you have to. The inspectors will fail you
if they don’t see that little purple ring around the
pipe when they come in to inspect your work. Okay, anyway, if you don’t
put that purple primer on, these will separate and
I can tell you firsthand. A friend of mine had an air
conditioning line inside their wall six months ago
leaked for God knows how long because whoever originally put
it together didn’t use primer and they had mold all over
their house, tens of thousands of dollars of damage and
the insurance company is fighting them on half of the stuff. So, that’s the nightmare
you have to look forward to when you don’t take five seconds
to take this purple stuff and brush it on your pipes. I’m warning you now, this
is your one and only warning that you’re getting about this. And I’m harping on the point
because it is so important and I’m begging you folks,
please do not be that guy that does not put the primer on there. Alright, I just gave the parts a coating and it doesn’t take a whole lot either. Try to be neat about it, just
wherever the two parts join. Here, you do the inside
of the trap adapter here and you do the inside of the… We gotta add a little more right there. See that? You just want an even coating. And then, you do the other
inside of the other side of the elbow and then
both ends of the pipe where it’s gonna get connected
to both other pieces here. You notice how it’s nice and clean. All you need to do is give it
the width of the swab around, pretty much because you only need to cover where the two parts go
in and touch and connect. You don’t need to go hog wild and you don’t need to
make a huge drippy mess. It just bugs the heck
out of me when I come in to do some work after a
plumber has been in there and they got stuff just
dripping down the pipes. I’m like, come on, really? And here is our final
product of the three parts that are connected together here. They’re all cemented now. Now, when I cement, I’ll
coat both sides of the inside of this guy and the outside of the pipe with the rubber cement there. Just pick it up here and you rub it all the way around real quick. You have about 10 seconds, alright. You do that real quick. Insert the piece in there,
turn it a quarter of a turn and hold both of them together
in place for 30 seconds. You don’t wanna let go or anything because it can force it back
out and loosen the joint. Now, we had a professional
plumber that was doing some work on a job site we were on last year and the guy didn’t do that and he ended up getting called back the next day to come and repair his fitting that he
made because it didn’t hold. It was leaking right there
because he didn’t put it in, twist it and hold. Okay, I always use my channel
locks to tighten these back up because these things
have a nasty reputation of tipping over and they leak. Then, I always like to store them back in their little pouch here. I prefer to keep them in a plastic bin away from everything else. Alright, so there it is all cemented up and everything’s hooked up and tightened and at the right angle and everything. Now, we’re gonna do a water
test and I always like to lay down paper towels underneath because that will show you instantly if there’s any drops of water. There should be zero, not one drop. (water gurgling) Okay, the water’s been
running a few minutes now. I usually like to run
it for about 10 minutes because sometimes it can take a while. You might have a leak that’s
very, very, very, very slight and it might take a while
for it to rear its ugly head because remember the water’s
continuously streaming through this whole P-trap there. Then afterwards, we’re
gonna do an overflow test where we’ll run the level of the water up and let it go down this path here. You have to make sure you
test that path down the drain as well because sometimes
that kind of stuff affects what happens
here under your gasket. You wanna make sure your
gasket is not dripping. That’s a common source of a
drip right there for people. So, if you have a problem
with your gasket dripping, take a look down in the description below. I’ll put a link to my other
video where we show you how to solve that particular
issue when you’re installing this drain pipe, how to put
the Teflon tape on the threads up above there and then whether or not you need to put any kind of sealant here. These black gaskets
here, these are rubber. They pretty much don’t
recommend you using putty. You should only use plumber’s
putty if you really, really can’t stop the leak because
the putty has oils in it, which they say will dry and
crack this rubber over time. Silicone would be better,
to use a tube of silicone and just mash some on there
before you put the gasket on. But right now, we don’t have any problems. The gasket’s fitting nicely there. That’s it, folks. That’s how you do it and if
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100 thoughts on “P-Trap Installation Drain Doesn’t Line Up Bathroom Sink Pipe

  1. Plumbing Tools and Plumbing parts in this video:

    Plumber's PVC Saw https://amzn.to/2ReRgsy
    Internal PVC Pipe Cutter https://amzn.to/2AeDWLc

    Spears P-Trap Adapter with Plastic Nut, 1-1/2" Hub x 1-1/4" Slip https://amzn.to/2Ly5tLS

    Plastic P-Trap kit: https://amzn.to/2LzQP6L

    6" Extension Tube, White, 1-1/4-Inch
    : https://amzn.to/2RfQzzf
    PVC pipe cable saw: https://amzn.to/2Rc6oHd

  2. While I may have missed it somewhere in the comment section, I didn't see any mention of cutting out the burrs left by the saw just inside the ends on the insides of cut pieces of pipe. Those jagged saw burrs will instantly start to catch debris such as hair, and at some point down the road, you'll have a clogged drain and trying deburr it then is too late. Deburring with a pocket knife takes about 5 seconds per end and then it's done forever.

  3. ❤️builders that short cut remodeled/flip units.. Just did a Ptrap 1 1/4 too.. a rotted thread 1 1/2 steel pipe (owners cheap too!) sooo l added rubber reducer with adjustable steel clamps!!!!! Works great 👍

  4. You want a straight pipe from the wall for future snaking.
    Do not be that guy who doesn't know how to install off-center drain pipes.

  5. Don't reduce the pipe size going downstream. Eh? The pipe sizes go UP going downstream. You'll put a restriction in the drain. Here's a trick. Where the J-bend is attached to the weir(the leg of the P-trap) there's generally no washer. It's a ground joint. Always dab a bit of pipe dope on the joint where the two surfaces meet. That allows them to slide over each other.

  6. Talk too much and lousy! Thing is very easy to fix but you made as if you give a lecture about the rocket science 😂

  7. OK, I gotta ask…what the heck are you wearing? It appears from the video that either you are in your bathrobe or you are narrating while Hugh Heffner manipulates the pipes.

  8. do you not have a inner pipe cutter for a drill? I have done the whole slit method thing when in tight situations but there is plenty of room here to use a inner pipe cutter to cut the trap adapter off and go from there.

  9. U can use clear primer, the purple primer is for gas ventilation. It doesn’t make a difference the stuff just makes a mess.

  10. This looks like what you end up with if you listen to the employee in the plumbing section at lowes. Walk in needing one fitting and leave with 8 lol.

  11. Please don't use silicon caulk to seal your drain pipes people! I had to pull about 1/4 tube of that off the drains under my kitchen sink when I purchased my house, and they all sealed just fine after being cleaned off and put back together. No leaking from those pipes for 6 years.

  12. I had a young new tech send me your video. Couldn’t imagine it was the same guy Again. Jeff you are an a interesting person. Jeff your blinker fluid is low. We are enjoying your videos in class now. We needed a good laugh thanks

  13. You can use glue without primer, not by code. Read the can, it says it will work without primer and only depends on local codes. So if you’re in a bind you can use just glue, even pressure fittings will work. Also I’d glue the 45 on first then you can plumb it with a torpedo level then put the trap adapter in.

  14. I see it too complicated. There are products to solve this kind of problems. I leave a link to Amazon so I can see it. https://amzn.to/2KQLKdP

  15. Threaded female adapter to go on threaded male trap connection. Some of us may do things differently but that doesn't matter, cuz you're probably helping someone. And why the f*** don't all vanities have an open back, for the pipes. But still, you improvised you adapted and you overcame. Peace and love peoples.

  16. Install a freedom arm and you would of spent the rest of the three hours it took you on something else.

    http://pascospecialty.com/flyers/Freedom_Arm_Flyer.pdf

  17. Had p trap wrong to start video , so found no need to watch further don’t have time to watch somebody is doing wrong to start video don’t have time for that!!

  18. Fastest way to fix this is to add a 90° elbow and cut the excess straight pvc pipe. Why all these little excess pieces? Now if it had to be fixed on the spot and that's all the material you had on hand OK I get it. But very unnecessary extra pieces and steps.

  19. If you would have put the P trap on the right way your angle to the drain would have been more downhill witch would have been better.yours looks like it’s coming out of the wall facing down that’s not good there’s always water draining back.

  20. They make 45 degree slip fittings same material as your p traps made from. You are making this way too complicated for the common folk. Now if you ever have to remove that cabinet you have to cut all the PVC off. They also make 90s too.

  21. Turn the trap around pivot a goes the other way then use a trained professional plumbing is a art not an exact science

  22. When my drain pipe was off due to switching from a pedestal sink to an vanity I used a flexy piece like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Form-N-Fit-Slip-Joint-Tailpiece-C3522355/205154096

  23. Lol nice video i like how you try and make your joints clean looks great most of my guys make a mess i was doing a job in LA and i decided to use clear primer and glue and the inspector made me rip the whole underground becuase he couldnt see the purple primer lol

  24. These comments are the reason I will never post a “How to”, no matter how much effort you go to to make a proper video there are a whole passel of self proclaimed experts more than willing to show how smart they are and how dumb they think you are.

  25. Good video. I skipped to the end and cheated. You should try installing a trap in a zero clearance sink from Ikea. The trap goes flat against the wall. I had to use a flexible pipe. What a headache.

  26. Don’t encourage a restricted drain, first of all it’s against code, secondly it causes problems… and thirdly plumbing is never straight and level!!!

    3” pipe and less is a 1/4” per foot. 3”-6” is 1/8” per foot and 6” and larger is 1/16” per foot…
    Teach them correctly

  27. Yes I’m an expert. License plumber and former plumbing instructor Honolulu Community College.

    • trap is on backwards.
    • your inside connector will impede flow.
    • should have used a fitting 45 and glue your trap adaptor on the end of the 45.
    • don’t need to test 10 minutes rather plug drain and fill fixture up to almost overflow and let it go if there is a leak it will manifest real quick. 🌺

  28. If at some point the sink needs to be pulled away from the wall the modification will make that very difficult. And putting a new sink in will also be difficult. Some of the suggestions below would be more practical.

  29. There is a better way than that so much connection hehe. That was ugly. And p trap seems strange seems inverted.

  30. End result is good jeff.now why didn’t you leave the trap where the original trap adapter was and connect the drain with two 90 waste sink tubulars?this solution is up to code.but say that wasn’t an option,instead of the 45 I would use a y with a plug at the end for the drain guy to access the drain easily,he would love you.many ways to do this.yours is correct but less time consuming option available also.have a good day

  31. Is there any reason that a 45 elbow wasn't on your radar? I try to make the least compression fittings possible myself. I'm not trolling, I'm always trying to get it right. But in this case, I would personally opt for that 45, brass or not. I look forward to your response, even if I'm the lazy one.

  32. I have this exact problem which was fixed with a felxi connector. My angle is less acute, maybe only a 22degree, but I'll fix mine the same way you did yours. Thank you for the tutorial. I'll be sure and get the primer! Oh, and I saw where you turned the trap around correctly for the final install. Good work

  33. Maybe ypu have some decemt ideas but as a plumber myself, the second you tell pelple to make the pipe level or back grading you instantly loose all credibility

  34. Wow there is always the right way to do things instead of the fast and easy way, I almost install one of those stupid flexible adapters.
    Thank you Sir You just save me lots of future headaches

  35. Should have shown how you removed the old part in order to install the 45 degree connector. Although you suggested using a dremel, it helps the average homeowner, non-professional, when viewing all aspects of the installation.

  36. Use the accordian style p- trap you could have saved yourself a lot of trouble. If Home Depot sells it then its not illegal otherwise the APA woul shut them down. Who is going to know anyway, diyer just fixing a leak or something. It is not a new build where you need an inspector's approval.

  37. I had this problem with a new vanity. I love the solution. One suggestion: save time with video editing. I realize that it's not incumbent on the teacher to go thru extra steps but these are made for DIY folk like me and we will watch the video more than twice. THANK YOU!

  38. It would be WAY easier to reconfirm your drain pipes.
    Bring your drain to the wall dont bring the wall to your drain.

  39. As a licensed plumber yes that’s the correct way to do this. I would make that a pvc union trap though. Much more solid and better looking.

  40. Let me save you some time. Just put a female adapter over the male trap adapter and add a 45. No cutting involved

  41. OK, Very impressive, however you forgot One very important step. when finished with everything, you should not only run the water and check for leaks, but filling the sink pass the over-flow holes in sink to 1)check to see if popup assembly doesn't leak and 2)when releasing water, the pipes are filled with water don't leak either. A small stream of water will not ensure a true and lasting test. Nice Video's, we need more out there like yourself. BTW, I was a master Plumber, for over 20 years. Nice job.

  42. I have toxic gas in my bathroom (doesn't smell like sewage). They didn't have a P trap under tub, I installed one. This morning the same toxic smell is in the bathroom! What could this be?

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