PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!

PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!

Cool Hey there, it’s Devin with make anything and today we’ve got a video that should be pretty quick But it’s also really exciting, because we’re talking about Smoothing 3D prints. When you’re working with FDM 3D printers like I tend to do on this channel One of the inherent side effects of the process of FDM printing is that your prints are gonna have layer lines Regardless of how expensive your printer is or how small you make your layer height, you can almost always see those layer lines. Usually I’m pretty okay with that I actually think layer lines can be kind of cool because they’re evidence of the process of 3D printing which is also really cool. But other times you want to smooth out your part – you want it to be nice and shiny and look great And that’s what we’re gonna talk about. If you’ve spent some time learning about 3D printing you may have heard of some different techniques for smoothing out 3D prints The most popular is probably ABS smoothing and I’ve already done a video about that That’s not what we’re talking about today But ABS smoothing is basically where you take an ABS plastic print Immerse it in a cloud of acetone vapours and that will chemically smooth out the part Now acetone smoothing is pretty cool and it’s relatively easy to do But what I don’t like about it is the fact that you have to print with ABS which releases fumes while printing and you’ll often have to print in an enclosed chamber or suffer warping or other nasty side effects So I prefer not to print with ABS and that’s why I don’t use acetone smoothing too often Another option is to use special filaments like this PolySmooth filament from PolyMaker and their Polysher machine as shown In my mini monstera video and that’s nice, but it’s a process of its own and once again, you’re stuck using a specific filament. Yet another option is to use an epoxy coating like this XTC 3D I used it in my rock climbing hang board video and as you’ll see there Epoxy is kind of annoying to work with so I am not too much of a fan of this even though it can work really well for certain uses But another thing about that is you’re adding a material on top of the printed part So your tolerances are gonna get all messed up and you’re not gonna be able to recycle this or anything So that’s kind of annoying So there’s tons of ways to smooth 3D prints that we’ve known about for a long time But the one I’m talking about today makes me particularly excited because we’re gonna smooth PLA. PLA is my favorite material because it’s easily accessible, It’s low cost, It’s easy to print with, it’s biodegradable Everyone loves PLA. So smoothing it is something that a lot of people have wanted to do I’ve read about ways to smooth PLA using harsh chemicals like methyl ethyl ketone and other crazy chemical names but I’ve been kind of scared off from that because I’ve heard of flammability issues and just health hazards. So I never really tried that out. But recently I got sent this really cool product called 3D Gloop! by a little startup company and this 3D Gloop stuff is interesting. It comes in a liquid form it comes as a kind of gel in a syringe and they’re also working on a spray-on version but this stuff is marketed as “the best 3D printing adhesive in the known universe” And while I’ve only used this stuff for maybe a week so far, I’m really liking it There are two versions of this: one for PLA and one for ABS They’re both meant to be used for bed adhesion as well as to glue parts together But what I really liked was the idea that you could smooth prints with this stuff. I’ve got some PLA parts I want to smooth. Let’s try it out First off I will mention that like other existing methods of PLA smoothing 3D Gloop! does have some health hazards And it does need to be treated with care. So for this experiment I will be wearing a respirator, safety goggles and some Nitrile gloves. The creators have said that in small concentrations, this stuff is pretty harmless but since I’m gonna be coating entire prints with 3D Gloop, I will be wearing my respirator just to be sure I decided to start with a small experiment by coating this low-poly squirtle that was printed using the Palette+ by Mosaic Let’s go ahead and open up this gloop. You can see there is a brush connected to the lid, and the consistency of the gloop itself is pretty thin and liquidy. Let’s just dip this brush and start coating this model Right off the bat I noticed that this stuff starts acting pretty immediately So as soon as you start brushing on there The PLA is gonna start smoothing out and also getting a little bit gummy So you really want to make sure to do very thin coats. Here’s the model after just one thin coat and as you can see, it’s already worked pretty well The layer lines are nearly invisible in a lot of areas. On the back here I went a little bit too heavy and it started getting really gummy and messy, so you definitely don’t want to just slop this on when you’re trying to smooth your model And I’m sure that once the spray version of 3D Gloop is released, that will be the ideal method of application for this process I can tell that it might take a bit of practice and getting used to, to get really clean smooth prints But I’m already feeling pretty good about this. So I’m gonna go ahead and move on to something a little more extreme Here we have a model of a cat skull that I printed out for my girlfriend using Filamentum’s Vertigo Galaxy, and I already did a bit of sanding before starting this project So that should help out a bit But there are also areas on the bottom that still have all the layer lines so it should still be a good test I went ahead and started coating on, trying to keep the layers a bit thinner this time, and once again right off the bat you can see the models start to smooth as I’m brushing this on Once it gets to that point I found it’s good to stop and wait a couple minutes before applying another thin coat Until you’re happy with how smooth it is I think I ended up doing about three thin coats over the entire model Before it got to a smoothness that I was happy with. And while it was very smooth I did notice that this dark black filament got a little bit cloudy. To deal with that we did a little bit of extra polishing using Brasso metal polish and a paper towel and that was really effective in bringing back some of that dark colour of this print. And as you can see it also really started to shine. At this point, I was pretty impressed and very happy with how the model was looking But just to see how far we could push it, we decided to do one more step and that was to bring it outside, put it on top of a few toothpicks, and go over the entire model with some Rust-Oleum Clear Gloss Finish You can find this stuff at just about any hardware store, and I just gave it one thick coat and let it dry overnight Here it is after that treatment and now it’s just unbelievably shiny and at the right angle it really catches the gold glitter in this Vertigo Galaxy filament It really had taken beyond my expectations at this point and I think you’ll agree that it’s a stunning print Just look at that golden shimmer and shine. It is so cool So there you have it guys, smoothed PLA prints I know I did end up doing a bit of extra post-processing But I kind of think it’s worth it because it came out looking so great And I’m really excited that this is possible with PLA I definitely want to play around with this stuff a lot more But I was just so excited about how well it worked that I had to share with you guys as soon as I could So there it is. It’s 3D Gloop. I’ll put information about it in the description Let me know in the comments what you guys think about this stuff. Is it cool? Is it worth the work? Is it worth the price? Is there a better way to smooth PLA prints or should we not smooth PLA prints? Anyways, that’s it for today. I’m Devin. This is Make Anything. Don’t forget to stay inspired

100 thoughts on “PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!

  1. The product looks pretty good, but I wouldn't use the brush provided. They are usually crap quality, too coarse and way too small. (I could see the brush marks.)
    Get a decent 1/2" or 1" paintbrush and pour the liquid into a larger jar. It's obvious that stuff has an effect pretty fast so being able to apply it more quickly has to be a help too.

  2. i mean yeah, while you get rid of layer lines, you add brush stroke lines. maybe will be better when they have a spray method for more even application.

  3. Lol this is so stupid, just wet sand the part with 600 grit sandpaper, then buff it out with a microfiber cloth with some rubbing alcohol

  4. well, it's no better than a 1€ nail polish which is much less toxic plus you already get glossy coat without extra spraying. 7:17 and it did not even smooth the layer any further than your sanding.

  5. well.. my ender 3 in normal detail setting (0.2), prints without any marks… then i just apply some primer and it looks like an injected model.

  6. You know I have been watchin many 3d print vids, and nowhere has anyone been wheeering safty googles or a mask, you are the 1st, and yours is the best. Congreats my boi 10/10 for safety

  7. soooooo…. adding additional layer of XTC-3D is bad, because it's additional layer, but layer of 3D Gloop is fine? Weird logic.

  8. If you don't like Methyl Ethyl Keytone because it sounds scary, you should really avoid Dihydrogen Oxide, Hydrogen Hydroxide, Hydronium Hydroxide, and Hydric acid.

  9. Please do a review on my 3D printable product, it's totally free to download! It's also an open-source project that needs some exposure! Here is the discord link: @t – Here is the Prism P7 download link on thingiverse: @t

  10. Good video, I have only been printing for a couple months, I usually sculpt things, may I suggest instead of using the brush that comes in the bottle go buy a fine brush from your local craft store and scrape off excess from brush before application, should help with the clumping, I do the same thing with a brush on lacquer I use to complete my prints. I find bushing on my flea cat works better the spraying.. more control.
    But other wise very informative video may have to order some int eh new year and give it a go

  11. So many types of respirators… which type of filters are you using here? Particulate, vapor, fumes, organic? Are they effective? Are they minimal? Overkill? Thanks.

  12. Your respirator will help you ZERO in this case, since its a HEPA type of filter. You have to wear a gas mask with activated carbon adsorbtion material. Also, I saw that this stuff contains methylene chloride, a particularly nasty chemical that is known to be carcinogenic and also flamable. IΒ΄d honestly prefer to use MEK …

  13. but you dissed other methods for reasons such as "can't recycle it" and "messes with tolerances" etc due to it being a coating, so you went with another coating. Meh. Makes sense.

    Also, Fight U.N.AGENDA21/30 and all elements of SOCIALISTIC/LEFTIST ideology. Sustainable development/CODEX ALIMENTARIOUS is pure evil and the SOCIALIST DEMOCRATS and RINOS in office are complicit…THIS MUST BE STOPPED 😎

  15. Interesting product. great vid. I think you'll have even better results if you don't use their brush. I would say a finer bristle would give you a better spread of the product. will definitely try it.

  16. Thanks for the great video. How does this product and method compare to, say, wiping the model with sponge dipped in acetone? Would be cool to see a comparison between metohods.
    If you have the inclination, stop by my fledgling woodworking channel and show some support. Cheers.

  17. "I don't like adding material on top of material", then proceeds to add material on top of material πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚

  18. I have something called Weld-on 4 acrylic adhesive for when I cut acrylic with my laser cutter that contains some of the same stuff. I'll have to give it a try. Looks like it's about 1/3 of the price too.

  19. I use it mostly for a better way of gluing my pla prints together. Works really well for that. Not so much for big surface areas though as it tends to dry pretty quick.

  20. My favorite method is just layers of fast-drying spray paint, which does some smoothing on its own, but mostly gives you a softer outer coating that sands down almost instantly compared to PLA. Then coat the whole thing with epoxy. In ANY case, you're sacrificing detail for smoothness whether you're melting into the model with this stuff or putting a coating on top.

  21. If you check out some of the other 3D pen videos you'll note that they use a hot knife to burnish and melt the outside layers to make it smooth and in some cases shiny.

  22. 2.5oz at 20 dollars, I think not, oh that's right the price is $19.99 it ends in .99 cents so you know your getting a good deal….. right

  23. Sir, Excellent guide for Smoothing PLA Prints, Can you tell us Which CAMERA DSLR you are using for shooting this Video. Please sir

  24. Was better before the goop. Yhea it's smooth now. But you lose a LOT of sharp lines and detail. Best not to do anything more then sandpaper

  25. Here in the UK there is a product called 'Greygate Plastic Polish' – apparently used by the RAF to polish aircraft canopies (plexiglass).
    This stuff is liquid, and has an extremely fine grit, and is non-toxic. You dab it on, let it dry, then buff it.
    For prints with large surfaces it would be great, but maybe not something complex, as getting into those crevices may be an issue.

  26. I like the logic!

    Put toxic chemicals in bottles with nice names on them and it makes them less dangerous!

  27. I’m putting on as thin of a coat as i can…thinner than on the previous model…

    proceeds to glob on thick layers of goop

  28. the day before yesterday, I started test printing with ABS, but I ran into the same problem over and over again: warping. is there a way I can fix this?
    I have an Anycubic i3 MEGA, so the parts should stick to the print bed well enough that you don't need to use glue sticks or something similar right?

  29. i have used pure methylene chloride before for smoothing my pla, super poisonous btw(although having a sweeter smell). it worked really well with smoothing and bonding parts together, could probably dissolve any plastic. including the container spout i have purchased it in. but what i found out after a year or so after i smoothed the print is that the plastic continued to degrade and became very week.

  30. I've been tempted to make some chloroform in small batches to try smoothing. Apparently all it takes is rubbing alcohol and bleach mixed together.

  31. It was glossy and required a lot of work, and the layer lines DID NOT all disappear, so what was the point? Just paint the thing if your going to coat it with this stuff. I'm guessing he was given this stuff just to promote it. The shiny finish after lacquer is not a surprise, but to then assign all the benefits to what is in effect an undercoat of "stuff" is not really a reasonable presentation.

  32. If you use the cura slicer look in their experimental area they have an ironing setting that has made my prints super smooth

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