Preparation & Wall Repair – Sherwin-Williams

Preparation & Wall Repair – Sherwin-Williams


[music playing] Approximately 90%
of painting failures result from insufficient
surface preparation. The time and effort you put into
preparing a surface for painting will pay off in the long run resulting in a beautiful finish
and lasting satisfaction. Although preparation will vary
depending on the type of project a few basic rules apply
to virtually every job. Use drop cloths to cover
floors, woodwork and countertops. Outside, drop cloths
prevent spattering onto shrubs, grass or hardscapes. Repair any cracks
or holes in the drywall. For small denser gouges you’ll need
a retractable razor knife, 220 grit sandpaper, spackle
or joint compound putty knife and a clean cloth. Start by cutting away
any loose drywall face paper Then lightly sand the area
so no rough paper edges remain. Wipe it clean
with a slightly dampened cloth. If the area is less
than one eighth inch in diameter, use spackling compound
to make the repair. For larger denser scrapes,
joint compound is a better choice. Either way, load your putty knife and draw it across the damaged area
at a 90 degree angle. Repeat once or twice
to fill the dent and feather off excess compound. Allow the compound
to dry completely. Because the compound
typically shrinks, a second or third coat
is needed to create a level surface. Sand lightly between each coat and before you paint,
sand the surface smooth with very fine grit sandpaper
and wipe it clean. Because joint compound is porous you should prime
the repaired area before painting. Otherwise the sheen and shade
of the touch-up paint may not match the rest of the wall. Cracks are also common. As a building settles,
cracks may appear below windows or above doors. To repair a crack, you’ll need
a retractable razor knife, joint compound, putty knife,
fine grit sandpaper and mesh tape. It’s not enough to just smear
joint compound along the crack because the crack
will just come back. Instead cut a thin v-shaped groove
along both sides of the crack, fill it with joint compound, let the compound dry
and sand it smooth. Next, place mesh tape over the crack
and apply joint compound, feathering it onto the wall. Two or three coats may be needed, each time feathering the material eight to ten inches
on either side of the crack. When the compound
is dry and sanded smooth, you’re ready to prime and paint. Pop nails or screws
are another common problem. To fix a pop nail, you’ll need
a hammer or electric drill, spackle compound, 1 to 2 drywall nails or screws
and fine grit sandpaper. Don’t just pound them back in
and fill the dent. Instead, press the panel
firmly against the stud, and drive a new nail
or drywall screw an inch or so above the old one. If possible, pull out the pop nail. Fill both dimples
with spackling compound using the techniques you’ve seen, adding coats, letting them dry
and sanding between coats. Drywall corners are
particularly vulnerable to damage. To repair drywall corners,
you’ll need a 5-in-1 tool hacksaw, new length of corner bead cordless drill, metal file, joint compound,
putty knife and a drywall sander. If the metal corner bead
is only slightly dented you can use a five in one tool to scrape away
any loose drywall material. Gently tap the damaged
metal section so it’s level and slightly below
the surface of the drywall. If necessary re-secure it
with drywall screws or nails. Then apply joint compound building up layers to cover
the corner completely. On the other hand,
if the metal bead is beyond repair you’ll have to cut out
the damaged section with a hacksaw. Then cut a new length of metal bead to replace
the section you removed and secure it
with for drywall screws, two on each end. File off any rough edges. apply two to three layers of
joint compound to conceal the bead. When dry use a drywall sander to restore a perfect
90-degree angle. Once repairs are complete, make sure all surfaces
are clean, sound, dull and dry before priming and painting. Outside pressure washing is the best
way to achieve a clean surface, but be careful to aim
your hose away from windows, they can break from the pressure. Always allow the surface to dry
completely before painting. Paint will simply fail
to stick to a wet surface. Surfaces that are glossy
such as metal railings or surfaces previously painted
with a high gloss enamel will inhibit good adhesion. Clean the surface first,
then scuff sand. This may be needed to increase
the profile of the substrate for better adhesion of the top coat. When you’re done, wipe off dust or
loose particles before continuing. Remove any light fixtures
or wall plates. It saves cutting in and results in a more
professional finished appearance. Make cutting and easier
with painters’ tape. Mask around trim work, cabinets,
wall sconces and so forth. Use a high-quality tape that
can be peeled off without damaging the underlying surface
or leaving a sticky residue. Using the right primer is critical
to any paint project. Not only will it ensure
the best adhesion and optimize
the performance of the topcoat, it can minimize surface prep by binding drywall fibers and creating a smooth
surface for the topcoat. It also promotes a consistent sheen
across the entire wall. Don’t let stains slow you down. Quick dry stain blocking primer is a general-purpose
commercial primer that dries in just an hour
so you can turn units faster. Good stain blocking properties
make it an effective choice to prime and seal new
or previously painted surfaces and with fewer
than 50 grams per liter VOCs quick dry stain blocking primer
is compliant nationwide. Odor doesn’t have to be a problem. With Harmony’s
odor eliminating technology it reduces
ambient room odors from pets, cooking, smoking and mildew, making it ideal
for any multifamily property. And with its formaldehyde
reducing technology, harmony promotes
better indoor air quality by neutralizing hazardous VOCs
already present in a room. It also meets
the most stringent VOC regulations and has achieved
Greenguard Gold Certification. Plus, antimicrobial agents resist the growth of mold
or mildew on the paint film extending the life of the coating. New untreated wood requires a primer to prevent tannin bleed
and to achieve a uniform finish. And some primers are formulated
to promote good adhesion when conditions make it difficult
to achieve thorough surface prep. So what’s the bottom line? The right primer can make
all the difference between a job that stands
the test of time and one that fails prematurely. Good preparation
also involves caulking to seal joints and cracks. It may be required to seal gaps
around trim work or window frames, where tubs or countertops
meet drywall or between vertical
seams and siding. First make sure
the old caulk is removed and the area is dry
and clear of debris. If the surrounding surface
will be primed, it’s best to caulk after priming, because the caulk will adhere
better to a painted surface. Squeeze a smooth bead
along the joint, using enough material
to fill the gap entirely but avoiding excess that can
look messy or pull away over time. Typically, a paintable silicone
or acrylic caulk is best for caulking
around windows and doors. In addition to being paintable,
these products are easy to clean and long-lasting. If you’re caulking a joint between
different types of surface materials make sure the caulk is
suitable for both materials. Outdoors you’ll need one
that has the flexibility to withstand
temperature fluctuations. And remember, never caulk the
horizontal seams of exterior siding, because moisture can get
trapped under the siding and cause problems in the future. It’s no surprise that
a good paint job depends on good preparation. Understanding the unique
requirements of your situation and preparing the surface properly will save you time in the long run
and turn units faster. For more information, visit your
neighborhood Sherwin-Williams store or sherwin-williams.com.

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