Simple to Use Epoxy Putty Stick for Permanently Restoring and Repairing Wood and Other Hard Surfaces

Simple to Use Epoxy Putty Stick for Permanently Restoring and Repairing Wood and Other Hard Surfaces


Hi I’m Tasha from the blog Designer
Trapped in a Lawyer’s Body and today I’m going to show you how you can fill deep
gouges in a wood surface using Mohawk’s Epoxy Putty Sticks. This is a much more
appropriate product for filling a large defect such as this, you would not want
to use hard fill sticks for that it’s too large. But the Epoxy Stick is great
because it hardens to a surface that’s probably harder than the wood and you
can use it for larger surface areas. You can also shape it so it would be great
to use on that round table leg that your dog chewed it can actually take on a
round shape. In order to use it you’re gonna need a sharp knife, you’re gonna
need some sandpaper to sand it after it’s cured, an old credit card or some
type of plastic scraper to level it with the surface of wood, or, if you need to
shape it to take on a curve an old credit card would work best, a bowl of
water to dip your fingers and so that the epoxy doesn’t stick to your fingers,
and then the Epoxy Putty Stick itself. When you select the color of your Epoxy Putty Stick you’re going to want to get it as close to the finish of the
existing finish as you can so that’s a pretty good shade for me, but there is a
color chart. The Epoxy Sticks themselves come in a variety of colors that can
even be mixed to achieve any color that you see on the color card. So the first
step is to cut your epoxy putty stick using a sharp knife. And you’re going to remove the plastic
from the outside it kind of looks like a piece of candy and it’s because epoxy is
two parts, so once you start mixing this and smashing it with your fingers it’s
going to activate it. Once it’s activated you only have three to five minutes to
work with the product ,so it’s important to keep in mind that you would be better
off to prepare too much product rather than too little because if you find that
you have too little then you’re actually gonna have to separate repairs and it’s
better to have it all in one if you can. Just dip your fingers in the water as
needed it’s not needed for the epoxy product itself but it does help keep it
from sticking your fingers as you mix it. You’ll know it’s mixed well when you
have one uniform color and you can feel it get warm in your hands that’s what’s
supposed to happen it’s part of the chemical reaction process so don’t be
armed. Then once it’s really soft and workable, I’m I’ve definitely cut off too
much which is fine I’m just gonna use a smaller amount, use my fingers to press
it into the gouge then I’m gonna use my scraper to get it as flat as I can and
to remove as much excess product as I can. Just because that will save me
sanding down the road and I can see it pulled it out on the gouge a little bit
there so I’m just gonna smooth it back down. Try not to overwork it. And it’ll fully
cure in about 20 minutes. After your Epoxy Putty has fully cured which takes
about 20 minutes you’re ready to sand it. So as with any sand paper you want to
start with a courser grit and work your way down to a finer grit. And just keep
sanding until it’s totally level with the surface. And just remember you always want to
stand in the same direction as your grain. Once it’s level you can stop sanding. Don’t be too worried about how it
removed some of the finish around the surface of the gouge that you filled. I’m
just gonna clean it off with a damp paper towel,
and once that dries we’re gonna come over it with a clear coat and we’ll coat
the entire area that was effected to add that finish back on. The Ultra Bond Clear
Finish Markers are very easy to use. After the tip is primed which this one
is here just come lightly over any finish that was removed and pick the
same finish as your piece so for this one I chose a semi-gloss. And even go
over the area that you epoxied. Then let that dry but you can already see how
much better that gouged area looks. And after this is dry I’ll show you how to
add back a little bit of the graining detail using the Brush Tip Graining
Markers. After the top coat has dried you can add some of the graining detail back
into your piece using Mohawks Brush Tip Graining Markers and it will
camouflage it even more you can already see it looks a whole lot better than
when we got started with that gouge but you just want to try to mimic the
greening in your wood so I see that it’s more narrow down here and it widens out
so I’m gonna try to follow that same pattern has a real feathery tip so you
just want to use a light touch. And remember no wood grain is perfect so you
want to use kind of a combination of shorter and longer strokes and pick a
color as close to your grain as you can. Remember
it’s easier to start lighter and go darker so err on the side of going to
light. You just want to feather it out with your finger a bit. And there you go
we’re much, much, much better place than where we started, the gouge is gone and
it’s fairly camouflaged so that if you didn’t know it was there and you were
standing away from it you wouldn’t even notice it.

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