The Making of the Shawn Stussy-Designed Prints for the Fall 2020 Dior Men’s Collection

For the new story
we had two different prints, both designed by Shawn Stussy.
We used a really special technique. There’s only one family
in the whole world that still knows how to make it.
They mix up the glucose paste. Take a bit of red,
a bit of yellow, and a bit of blue, and mix those together
in different quantities to create our own specific colours. This is the model sent by Dior. One is the psychedelic surf
which is huge waves of rolling letters and the second
is kind of like a Fair Isle with stripes of different flowers,
lettering and wavy graphics. All very beachy
but all very fluid. These letters,
for example, are streaked. So, I will cut out
the different marble strips and join them to create
the composition. So, here we can see the stripes where they’ve put the lines
of different colour together but, then if we look below, you can see where they’ve raked
through those stripes to create all of these feathered
marble lines. I will now cut out my sheet
so that I can place them on. You can see the touch
of the hand is really evident. You can really see
where they’ve put the black outline in one single strike
of colour paste. In other areas they really mixed
together different blocks of colour to create this almost
psychedelic granite effect. So, when you want to transfer
the colour onto the fabric, you wet the fabric
so it’s almost like a wet transfer. The colour flows really easily
from the starchy paste onto the silk. I think the best way
to really describe this technique is like those sweets
you have as a child that have a picture
of a flower inside. It’s really the same thing
but, instead of using sugar, we are using a mixture
of wax and starch.

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