Waterproofing Basement Walls with DRYLOK® Paint — by Home Repair Tutor

Waterproofing Basement Walls with DRYLOK® Paint — by Home Repair Tutor

In today’s video, I’m going to be sharing
how to waterproof basement walls using DRYLOK Paint. Now here’s the deal, UGL is sponsoring
this video. And the reason why I agreed to partner with them was because I’m going
to be doing this anyway. So I figured I’m doing this anyway, we might as well partner
together, and show you how to use DRYLOK Paint. Before you actually waterproof basement walls,
you want to assess the outside of the home first. Now I’m just a handyman. I’m not
some kind of basement waterproofing expert. But I do know a few different things. Number
one, you want the land around your home to be sloped away from the house. This home is
landlocked here in Pittsburgh because it’s sandwiched in between two other homes. We’ve
got a sidewalk on one side and a yard in the other. And there’s not too much I can do
with the grading. Number two, you always want to check and make sure that your gutters and
downspouts are clean. I clean those twice a year, and I know that they work properly,
yet we still get moisture in this basement. So I’m going to be renting out this home.
I wanted the walls to look good for the new tenants, and I didn’t want it to have that
musty smell. So that’s why I’m using the DRYLOK Paint.
As you can see here, the house is in fact landlocked. There’s that sidewalk on the
side of it. And that sidewalk where that window is leads down into the basement. So we would
run this dehumidifier which costs money, and my tenants wouldn’t run it all the time.
Here’s the main wall. Here’s the side wall; you can see all the cracks in it that
we’re going to fix with a special product from UGL. I’ll get into that in a second.
I’m just using a regular 6” drywall knife, and I’m going to be using that to scrape
off any of the old paint, any kind of efflorescence that’s on the wall. You should use an etcher
of some type if you do have efflorescence down. In this case, I’m using a Sawtech
blade and an angle grinder. And I’m taking off some of the high spots on the wall. You
don’t necessarily to do this. I wanted to do it, though, to create a nice, smooth finish
in certain spots. This is a really old wall, and it did present some issues in terms of
the prep work. Wear all your safety stuff when you’re doing this. And then wipe off
the wall with a broom so there isn’t any dust on it. So this is what my prepped wall
looked like, and I was ready to go ahead and do some additional work.
This is the DRYLOK Fast Plug. It’s a hydraulic cement, and you can use it to seal any kind
of cracks. You can do this actually under water. And you can also use it to anchor posts
and different things. The other nice thing is it does reduce radon gas penetration, and
that’s important here in Western Pennsylvania where radon is pretty bad.
Now what you do is you take three cups, three measuring cups provided in the container.
Three of those and one cup of water, and you mix it all together with a putty knife. Now
the colder the water, the better the working time for this hydraulic cement. And you just
fill in any kind of spots on the wall. Now you do want to cut out a v-notch in any crack
because that v-notch will help hold the hydraulic cement in the wall. But as you can see here,
I’m filling in all the cracks. Then if you want to, you can actually use a masonry brush
to feather out that finish and make it look a little bit better. So that’s what I did
there. I didn’t want like this huge, weird patch on the wall.
Now if you do have mold or mildew, you can use Concrobium in the corners, and that’s
exactly what I’m doing. Now here’s my prepped wall before I go ahead and apply the
DRYLOK paint. So as you can see here I filled in all the cracks, and everything is as clean
as possible. And this dehumidifier was in fact running while I was doing all this. So
hopefully we won’t have to have that happen anymore.
So open up your window in the basement. If you’ve got a window, you want to air everything
out. If you do have a forced air furnace with gas, I would recommend that you turn the gas
off to it. Same thing with the hot water tank just as a precaution. This is, after all,
paint. And if you’ve got a gas dryer, don’t run it while you’re painting in the basement
too. So again, we’ve got plenty of air circulation in here, and that’s really, really important
when you’re working with any paint. So I threw a drop cloth on the floor just
to protect the floor even though it doesn’t look the best—just any normal drop cloth.
Now you can also use a ¾” inch nap roller. I was going to use a 1 ¼” nap roller but
decided that actually I wasn’t going to do this because a paint brush might be a better
option, and I’ll get into that in a second. So I’m using DRYLOK Extreme Masonry Waterproofer
for this project. It provides a smooth finish. It also provides a mildew resistant film on
the top of the wall. And you can tint this to any color you want. So you don’t have
to do this in white. You can use it for a variety of different surfaces and areas in
your home, so not just the basement but swimming pools and other locations. I would say, you
know, make sure you follow the directions. You want it to be relatively dry in your basement
when you do this. DRYLOK does sell brushes, and that’s what I decided to use.
So you just want to mix up the DRYLOK really, really, really, really well. It is a thick
consistency, but not thicker than a regular latex paint.
So I just started in the corner and brushed it in right next to that electrical box. And
as you can see here, I started by just moving back and forth, left to right, and trying
to fill in any areas that needed the paint. And I found that moving left to right and
horizontally was a good method. You don’t want any pinholes in the paint because that
will let moisture through. So just double check that you don’t have those pinholes.
So again, I just moved left to right across the wall, and this went by pretty quickly.
You know there’s really not much to it. You just want to make sure that you fill in
the best that you can with the DRYLOK Paint. I like the paint brush because it allows me
to go back and forth. And if I do have any kind of drips, I can take care of those. You
can spray DRYLOK on the wall. And I almost did that but decided not to do it because
of all these weird nooks and crannies, like behind pipes and supports in the wall. It
was just easier for me to do that. And like I said, I back brushed any of the drips and
the runs that I had on that block. So the first wall, it probably took me a good
hour to do that; maybe less. And then because DRYLOK is a latex paint, you can actually
apply it to any surface. So I actually did the wood where that panel’s located. And
then I let that hydraulic cement dry overnight, and I just filled that in with the DRYLOK.
You can see this wall looks terrible. And then after I painted it with the DRYLOK, it
looks so much better and way more presentable to the tenants who are going to move in here.
Just remember: To get the full benefit of DRYLOK, you need two coats on the wall.
I was pretty impressed with how easily the DRYLOK went on the block wall here in this
old basement. Now if you’re going to be waterproofing a basement for a game room or
perhaps a basement bathroom, I would recommend that you check out DRYLOK Paint. It’s a
great option for you. It’s not terribly expensive. And again, it’s a great DIY project.
If you are going to be putting in a new basement bathroom, you may want to check out our guide
right here. It’s got a lot of great tips on waterproofing the actual bathroom and several
more that will help you out with the tiling, the tools, and the different materials.
Thanks for watching today’s video. I’ll see you next week. Take care, and talk to
you soon.

100 thoughts on “Waterproofing Basement Walls with DRYLOK® Paint — by Home Repair Tutor

  1. This is so helpful! It is,exactly the issue we have in our basement. Can you tell me how long ago you did this and how it has worked out? Does the moisture still seep through at all?

  2. Dont Use Dry-Lock- it is the dumbest thing you can do- Blocks need to breath- it creates a vapor barrier on the wall and that water will try to escape. Water pressure is the strongest thing in the world and you cannot stop it, you can only hope to contain it which this product will not. It will lock the moisture/water behind the paint and eventually the water pressure will break through. It also causes mold growth behind the paint and eventually this product will fail- it is useless to install and a waste of time. In the future- stop the water from the outside, use a dehumidifier and a breathable primer or increase air flow If they are not going to use a dehumidifier you can potentially install an exhaust fan system that runs off of a humidistat to create some negative pressure.

    This product will fail within a 6 months- 2 years- it will create a mold problem behind the paint and you will eventually have to redo the project. I see this in Pittsburgh every time and it is a nightmare to remove this stuff. I wouldnt use that garbage if they paid me- I have actually turned down jobs when they tried to pay me to install it.

    If you run a moisture meter on this wall- you will most likely 50-100% moisture when it should be 20-22% on block walls.

    FYI- You have mold behind the band joist behind the insulation and i can see visible mold growth in the rafters. I recommend using spray foam closed cell insulation on the band joist at 1 inch and build up the r-value with some unfaced r-15..

  3. Drylock specifically says that it doesnt work on top of old paint and so everything you painted over should have been removed first, no?

  4. How many gallons did you use for that area you did? I have a 25×7 wall to do that is pretty smooth. Would 1 gallon get it you think?

  5. You should have painted behind the breaker box and behind the board. Water vapor tends to find the areas that you did not paint. Keep an eye on that.

  6. How much area does a gallon cover on a basic cynder block wall? I have a 7 1/2' by 24' wall to cover. Would one gallon get it? I know with basic paint and drywall a gallon would be way more than enough. Does this stuff go quite a ways for surface area? Or should I go buy another gallon before I get started?

  7. Can you use a roller as long as you Mae sure it’s completely sealed?? A brush seems like it would take forever! ??

  8. Painted the concrete blocks. Waste of time, been peeling off and actually has eaten part of my cinder blocks away. Never use DRYLOK. I love the hydraulic cement. It is perfect yet tends to shrink over time but no new cracks.

  9. Advocating paint for stopping moisture is a scam /sham ,it needs to be sealed from the outside and be free to dry/breathe to the inside.painting will just seal the mostiere in to the blocks and make it worse.

  10. Could the Drylok be used over drywall, then painted with latex paint?  I am putting in a free-standing tub that will not be right up against the walls.  I want the back wall to be tiled but I don't want to tile the side walls – I just want to paint them so they look like walls, not a tub surround. It is not intended to protect against ongoing water exposure, just an occasional splash.

  11. I’ve used the same hydrologic cement like you did in this video, on my basement walls where there were cracks. The issue that I had with the product was that, even after it had 2 weeks to dry while I was working on other parts of redoing my man cave… Water started to leak through it pretty bad. It wasn’t until I used four coats of Drylok Extreme, until it actually stopped leaking. But it was leaking through the same UGL Drylok Hydraulic cement that you used in this video. Would you be able to maybe help explain why this may have occurred? Also. I’ve got a crack down the center of my 2.5 attached garage floor, and it’s leaking into my man cave that’s directly under it. I know that this is very unusual to have a living space under a garage floor, but that’s how it came. The prior owners hid that from me and it’s too late for me to do anything about that now.I followed so many videos, tips, instructions on how to resolve the issue, which it did for just one year, but now it’s back leaking again.Ive stripped the floor down, filled in the crack with cement,then with Rustolium patch kit on top of that.Then used Rust-Olium Epoxy Shield kit on my floor step by step.This is where I am 2 yrs later. I really need your help & advice. Anything.Thanks so much. Great video.

  12. Omg this stuff is the truth. I did a room in my basement after watching this video and it does exactly what it claims. My craft room looks great.

  13. bad IDEA, if you have no money to excavate the hole outside, the best solution is an interior french drain or if it's a little leak than some silicon or something else just to plug that hole, but DO NOT USE THAT SHIT it keeps moisture and water in the block… what do you think happen when there is fcking water inside blocks…

  14. Awesome video. I work two jobs and am pressed for time. Would I be able to do a wall in sections, come back and do the rest later, or would I pretty much have to do a whole wall's primary coat at once?

  15. So here are the basics:
    Walls are very strong in compression, not tension. If you "block" the water from penetrating the wall, hydrostatic pressure will build up and put too much tension force on the wall which will eventually cause wall failure.
    Solution: call a professional, because drylock is a bandaid fix not a permanent solution

  16. This paint not only won't work to stop the basement leak but it will cause mold to develop and the blocks to deteriorate due to water and moisture remaining inside and on the surface of the block. Interior drainage system is the only way to waterproof a block wall from the interior. This paint is purely cosmetic and will make a leak drastically worse in the long run. Don't waste your time.

  17. Fellow yinzer in the Burgh too. Im about ready to do the same thing here. Is there a local place to by the Sawtec disks or can you recommend something equivalent? Thanks for the vids!

  18. Any seeping walls should be properly fixed. Water will find its way through drylock eventually. For controlling humidity levels, I used drylock extreme. Great stuff for that.

  19. There is a high probability based on home age that the existing paint he grinded contained lead. Therefore the basement is likely contaminated with lead dust. Contained work areas with HEPA filtered vacuums, and confirmatory lead wipe testing are some of the controls professionals would use when performing similar work. Hopefully the new tenants don't have children or practice law.

  20. Drylok sucks, it's just a temporary fix and will cost you more money in the long run!!!!! It may look good for a few months but if you really have moisture problem it will fail after a few months!!!!

  21. This paint does not work . Used it in the garage. Water eventually pushes thru the paint. I had to get an internal drain and sump pump installed.

  22. Needs a perimeter drain and sump first. You’ll be surprised how much water that block can hold. Call a water proofer first. Then just use Kilz because you won’t even need drylok.

  23. Never use drylock paint or anything to seal inside the basement walls. You are going to destroy those walls. Idiotic choice. You're going to create lateral pressure that is eventually going to ruin your foundation.

  24. Thank you, very comprehensive, after the 2 coats of DryLock paint, can you paint over that later… say you want to change color?

  25. I know that running a dehumidifier is better than nothing. Getting the water away from the foundation is a must.

  26. Assuming there are no moisture issues, what should I use to make my basement walls white? Walls are the original (1971) rough gray concrete, and I'm looking for a good cosmetic solution to tide us over until we can get the basement finished. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

  27. its best to use gloves and mix the hydraulic cement up and mix it into a thicker form roll it into a ball wear gloves !! and pack it into the cracks do not use a putty knife its not drywall mud you need it to actually get as far as you can get it into the crack

  28. Now that its been over a year from uploading this video, is the basement waterproof for the most part? Anything you wish you would've known the first time around looking back?

  29. So your tricking people to think they are renting a good house they when they get moved in they find out how bad the house really is

  30. Don't use dry lock. My buddy used it and it didn't really solve his issue.
    Also, I bet if you let that go for a year and then drill a hole in that wall water would pour out.

  31. Thanks for making this video. I found it helpful. I realize you are not making claims to be a waterproofing expert. At around 0:55 you talked about clean gutters but then showed the water leaking down right behind the sidewalk. Even a one foot extension or redirecting the gutters away from the house will make a huge difference.

  32. as Basement Waterproofing I know that this material does not work all foundations move and crack overtime in any material on the wall will crack as well also no material can properly stick to concrete, concrete is like your skin and has layers that degrade over time and anything stuck to it will fall off as well

  33. Will the cement walls crack and chip after they dry and age if they are not sealed. Also, what if it is an older house that settles? What happens to the cement walls.

  34. The fact that the word waterproofing is used in this video is complete and utter bullshit should be labeled Band-Aid at best

  35. Is that true that after awhile the paint starts peel off? i am renting and I would like to paint to make the basement more brighter, any suggestion??? TIA

  36. Looks great for a a few months until those minerals start bubbling up the paint again! Drylock is pointless if you do t take care of the exterior source of moisture wicking through your foundation.

  37. LOL! What a bullshit product! It's like putting bandaids on the rusty parts of a car. Yes, this product may temporarily stop water penetration through a foundation wall, but the problem that caused the original water penetration is most definitely still there, and it won't be going away on its own. It will only get worse, and products like this one, will speed up the deterioration process. The repairs to correct the water penetration can ONLY be done on the outside of the foundation, NOT the inside! The people making these products are SCAMMERS!

  38. As someone that used to work for a company that dealt with wet basements, I find it very, VERY unlikely that this product will work.

  39. You can’t really tint it to any color. Their paint cans have little room for actual tint. So your looking at very light colors

  40. Used Drylock on my walls AFTER I addressed moving water away from my foundation. It has held up for YEARS and has virtually eliminated all of my moisture issues. If you do it right, it works. Don't skimp on it, but also ignore most of these comments telling you to spend $50k to have your foundation dug up and water proofed from the outside. They had people trying to use their own man power to fix their own problems, it prevents them from being able to come into your home and price gouge you for their services.

  41. Everyone is sitting here shaking their finger that this is just a bandaid and not a real fix. I live on a hill and don't have many options and spending $20k to excavate the landscaping and do it properly isn't always an option for everyone. This is a great product to help out in conjunction with other solutions.

  42. I thought you were gonna put a waterproofing system designed and a sump pump system but good video overall 😬

  43. Too many retarded hand gestures in the first 15 seconds to continue watching. Clicked off to not give the watch.

  44. Have to dig down in sections and seal from outside in. Drainage away from house as well. Drylock is just putting a thin film on inside it doesn’t fix the real problem.

  45. I was told that it could not be rolled on by company scientist when I used it in my basement. Very effective product.

  46. So I already have a finished basement. I pulled up the carpet and dry locked the concrete. I'm wondering if the brick behind my drywall is done. Can I just paint drylock directly on drywall?

  47. Thanks. I'm hoping the DryLok along with a dehumidifyer takes care of that salt-like compound. Starts with an e. You think that will work?

  48. DryLok is the worst thing you can use!!! Concrete will have moisture, then it will peel off. You need to relieve pressure from the water. DryLok locks the water into the concrete and the concrete will get heavy and crack.

  49. So if a shingle comes off my roof do I nail the shingle to the roof from the attic? Isn't this what you are doing?

  50. Why is the water dribbling out of a spout right at the exterior wall (0:54)? Wouldn't adding a downspout extension keep the water away from the house and, in turn, keep your basement drier? Good video, btw.

  51. What you would need to do, is open up the sides of house, put french drains on all sides below the foundation, add a plastic membrane to keep the moisture out (also add insulation under that membrane) and finally grade the ground. Adding paint inside the house does nothing to cure this problem, it just hides it.

    This costs lots of money so not everyone does this. I wouldn't play on my health though living in a house with wet foundations.

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