Wedi Board Installation for Fundo Primo Shower (Step-by-Step)

Wedi Board Installation for Fundo Primo Shower (Step-by-Step)

In our prior video, we showed you how to waterproof
a shower bench using Wedi. We also showed you how to install the Wedi
Fundo Primo shower pan. In today’s video we’re going to complete
our Wedi Fundo Primo shower kit installation, and we’re going to show you how to waterproof
the walls and install a custom shower niche using the Wedi building panels. All right, so we’ll go ahead and put this
back panel in, and I’m just going to set it in place and just kind of put a mark at
the edge of my bench here. And I just measure up from that dado. Make sure that your tape measure slides down
into the dado. So we got nineteen and a half. Twelve and five eighths. Clean the joint; make sure you don’t have
any insulation in there or any debris, and then just fill that whole thing with the Wedi
caulk. So on this backside, I mean, I would say you’re
going to almost use an entire tube to fill this. But this is the most critical part of this
system is getting the corners of the showers, so you definitely want to be generous with
the caulking in this area. And we’ll go ahead and do our corner and
all the way up along the bench. Push it down into the dado well. And at this point, I want to keep my first
one down about eight or ten inches. And then you also want to just be, again,
four inches away from the bottom. We’re going to just save some washers and
pinch two of these panels together. Four inches at the bottom. And then we put some blocking as you remember
in this corner; it’s important to have that to secure the edge. And again, even though this is just above
the bench, I’m still going to keep this up about four inches. So this is going to be kind of a little bit
of a common thing that you’ll have. Not if you’re keeping the panel the same,
but if notching out and cutting this pan down, you might end up having a little bit of an
overcut for your dado like I did here. It’s not a big deal. Once we go to our final application of the
sealant, we’ll just fill that whole groove in there. So you might not be 100% accurate when you
recreate the dado. Like the factory edge type fits pretty nicely,
but I’m about a good saw blade, a good eighth of an inch off. So I’m just going to fill that and then
fill the corner. So we’re going to create a niche in the
corner here. But instead of having this weird bump out
with our end stud here, we’re actually going to cut this out so that our wall panels go
flush into the side of the corner of the niche, so basically creating a corner niche. I’m just going to cut out the area that
I want my niche, and I figure we’re going to make about a sixteen-inch niche. So I want to start out with the bottom part. I’m just going to use my oscillating tool,
and I want to be careful not to cut the drywall on the other side because there’s a closet,
and I don’t want to do any additional drywall work. And since I want it to be sixteen inches on
the inside dimension, I’m going to add three inches for my top and bottom plate plus an
inch for my Wedi board. And I’m just going to add actually another
inch for my tile. It’s not going to be a full inch, but I’d
rather have a little bit of wiggle room and keep that sixteen in there. So my total overall size will be twenty-one
inches; I’m going to be cutting from bottom to top here. Truth is this is sitting straight. And you also want to make sure that this is
sloping into the shower. So if you have to, you can put a shim in the
back here and create that. But it’s nice to have the wood blocking
actually slope into the shower. It makes everything else go in more easily. We’re putting in wood blocking here. This is just standard 2x4s. You can use 2×6, 2 by whatever. We’re using common deck screws to secure
them to the studs. The reason for the blocking is for grab bars. We do the caulking on top of this bottom sheet
here. And then we’ll be able to pinch both sheets
together here. And, yeah, I’m going to keep this down about
eight inches so I can pinch those two sheets as well. I also got to pinch two and a half. So make sure that sits on the dado and then
you can just puncture against your mixing valve or where that location is, you know,
to give you a center mark. Kinda trace this guy around here. And then move onto your next piece. So now we know that’s the center of that. I’m going to use a one-inch spade bit
to cut that out. Then your next one. Now this guy, you just have a two and a quarter,
but you can cut this out with a utility knife obviously, but I have a two and a quarter
hole saw bit. It’ll cut out. Clean out that dado joint. And on your corner here. So we measure down to the bottom of our niche
and cut this out. Seventeen and a half. Okay, so I would recommend for doing this,
custom-making a niche, to put the bottom of the sill plate down first. Finish the size. So we got basically ten inches. So cut it off a square inch here; ten inches. Notch up a little bit out. Okay and then seal the bottom part of the
Wedi here. Just make sure it’s still sitting level
when tented down. And actually it might be a little… there
we go. Put the back portion in. There’s like nine and three quarter. Seventeen. So I’m actually going to use up the rest
of this thinset. Again, you can either use sealant against
the drywall or just use some thinset like I’m doing here. Going to get a good amount of sealant against
this bottom plate. Okay, and then make sure you seal against
the Wedi bottom sill. And I can’t really get in this corner, so
I’m just going to go against my one-inch here. Steve is using a scrap piece of 2×4 here to
pound that little piece of Wedi panel into the 2x4s. Then he’s using two screws and two washers
to attach it. Now here’s the thing: always make sure you
apply a copious amount of Wedi joint sealant in a custom shower niche like the one we’re
building. Thirty-five. Put a generous amount on this bench we’re
going to slide the panel into. And again, I’m not going to go
all the way down to the corner; I’m just going to hold that last one up. So now it’s time to apply a generous bead
of Wedi joint sealant to all of the seams, all the vertical seams. As you can see here, Steve is using the corner
putty knife, and that really comes in handy with the corner seams, and applying a lot
of Wedi joint sealant to that custom shower niche. Again, that’s really, really important to
keep everything nice and waterproof. And then applying Wedi joint sealant to all
the screws and washers. So again, you want plenty of Wedi joint sealant
in between all of the seams, especially add a horizontal plane for a bench. That’s very, very important. And then again, were just smoothing out the
joint sealant so that it doesn’t affect our tile. You can see here how there’s plenty of joint
sealant on all the seams in the custom niche. And then we applied a lot of joint sealant
on all the screws and washers and horizontal seams. It’s very easy to use the joint sealant;
you just go from one screw washer combination to the next and from one horizontal seam to
the next. And it’s easy to smooth out with either
a three-inch putty knife or that corner putty knife. You’ll probably want both of those for a
shower system like this. Again, make sure where the curb meets the
bench or a side panel that that’s completely waterproof. And then it never hurts to apply a lot of
Wedi joint sealant between the curb and the shower pan and between vertical building panels
and the shower pan. These are areas that could be adversely affected
by water, so always make sure that they’re completely waterproof using the joint sealant. So this is one thing that’s different than
most other pans is that if you get a little puncture like this, you really don’t have
to worry too much about it because this pan is an inch and a half thick. This was actually just from one of those washers. I stepped on it and kind of created a little
pin hole. But you can just fill this in with the sealant
and not worry about it. I would say this is one of the real great
benefits of using the Wedi system is because if you puncture this, as long as it doesn’t
go all the way through the pan, I mean there’s still waterproofing; you don’t have anything
to worry about. Whereas a lot of those other pans where it’s
a sheet membrane, you’ll have a major issue if you did a puncture like that. So even like this little divot here, I must
have dropped something there, so I’m just going to fill in that little hole, and we’re
good to go. So if you wanted to, and you worry about waterproofing
this area because, if you remember, we kept this corner because we didn’t want to damage
it and have to do all this finishing on the outside, but if you wanted to, you could just
use a sealant and go over this whole corner. It really is not going to matter because,
if you remember, we’re going to have that shower door coming possibly three inches away
from that corner. So technically it’s not going to be in the
wet area outside of here. But if you had some extra sealant, and you
were concerned about it, it’s really not a bad idea to fill that in and just seal over
this and then the whole area is waterproof. And then the same thing as far as the ceiling. If you really wanted to seal up against there,
you could. But there’s really not going to be, you
know, you’ll be putting tile and then you’ll end up doing a caulk joint against tile. I mean if you’re getting water way up there,
you really should’ve considered doing the whole ceiling with tile as well or at least
in the shower area. But normally, that’s not really much of
a concern because it’s really kind of out of the wet area. Okay, and then all the kits come with this
escutcheon rubber plate that you would basically thinset into place. And this is just like a lot of extra protection. Because if water ever got behind here, you
have this big rubber gasket, essentially, that’s going to keep the water from going
inside the wall. So this comes with every kit. You can do this during the tiling process,
or you can install it as you’re installing the Wedi kit. But basically just use a thinset to set this
in place. And then make it as flat as possible. Okay, and then they also have these little
guys, which is really nice for something like this for the shower port because this is definitely
an area that if you didn’t silicone around the port for the handheld, this really makes
a nice seal on that. So if you bought this shower kit and then
you have an additional valve like this that changes it from showerhead to handheld, they
don’t really sell another flange like this for something smaller like that. So what you want to do on this is, literally
right around the edge, just basically create a bead of sealant, just enough to raise it
outside of the Wedi board, and then let that dry. And then you’ll tile up against that. So when you’re really just trying to create
your own little bead so if water ever got behind, which it will eventually, once water
gets behind the tile, then that water can run down and go outside of this hole. So just try to make it as close to that valve
as you can. That will be the same thing you want to do
for the showerhead if you didn’t buy an additional flange for it. So I’m kind of making a mess here for it,
but you just really want to… It’s more important on the top than it is
on the bottom. Using the Wedi Fundo Primo shower kit is very
easy and straightforward. If you are in fact doing a master bathroom
remodel and you want our help, check out the Bathroom Repair Tutor course; you can go right
here to check that out. That’s where we assist our members one-on-one,
and you get all of our video tutorials in one spot. It’s awesome especially if you’ve never
done a master bathroom remodel and you want extra help with it. All right, that’s it. Thanks for watching today’s video, and we’ll
see you in the next one. Take care.

18 thoughts on “Wedi Board Installation for Fundo Primo Shower (Step-by-Step)

  1. I think your video "record player" is skipping a little too much…must be a scratch in the vinyl…=p Great video otherwise! Steve needs gloves for that sealant!

  2. I noticed Steve did not make a dado cut to receive the wall boards on the Wedi board for the top of the bench seat. Any particular reason why?

  3. Thanks guys. Your vids were sometimes the only good source of info on wedi installation. I’ve put in laminate, built wood fences….Yada yada, but never tiled. I originally put the collar on with their sealant, but pulled it off to do this.

  4. Can you wet shim wedi board to bring the walls flat, plumb, and square ( and stay in wedi warranty )? I know you can do that for kerdi board and stay in warranty, but I can't find any documentation for wedi board.

  5. You put the collar on inside out. It’s not a gasket to seal against the backside of the control valve face plate. The conical shape of the collar is meant to not allow water to trace behind the wall, it directs it back to the face of the wall board. So the narrower diameter of the collar goes inside, the larger diameter with the smaller ridge lip goes out at the face of the wall. The way you have it the lip sticks out well past the finished wall surface and will inevitably get distorted when you mount your face plate bracket (that gets secured flush with the finished wall). This will allow any water that reaches the collar to trace through and down the backside of the finished wall, as like electricity, water follows the path of least resistance. The cone shape is meant to prevent the water from getting past the inner most ridge of the narrower part of the cone. The water would have to be forced with pressure against gravity to get past the narrower inner part of the rubber ring. The face plate prevents direct spray so the water can only follow the rule of gravity and least resistance. Just my two cents.

  6. QUESTION – When you join two Wedi boards together with the Wedi screws to "pinch" them in, do you place the screw hole right at the join seam or through one of the boards?

  7. Great video! Steve looks super skillful! I like everything about the wedi system but how do you install a frameless shower enclosure and attach to wedi foam curbs? I haven't seen any useful hints how this should be done. Foam is weak for drilling into and many frameless enclosures have brackets that need to be screwed into the base. Any hints or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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